RF600
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Posts posted by RF600
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You might be money a head by going with manual hubs. This has not been proven but you might gain a small mpg gain. With manual hubs the front end is disengaged and not turning. One advantage is you are either locked or not.
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If you haven't, it would be a good idea to replace your tensioner, water pump, thermostat & coolant bypass hose while you have the cover off.
^this.
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There are some riders that push it in the wrong places. Personally I keep both tires on the ground. I have too much invested in mine to crash it.
If any of you have not ridden a v-twin sportbike, you should. Lots of torque. Just be easy on the throttle or you will be looking at the sky.
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Do you have the ability to make one yourself? $850 +shipping is money I don't want to spend. Have some buddies that can weld?
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^+1, sounds like an alternator fault rather than an issue with the amperage being low. Good to hear it's fixed though!
Agreed. This kind of thing is rare. Even if you put a 60 amp on it, it probably would not give you a problem. Good to hear it's fixed.
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Check the fuseable links coming off of the battery. I believe it is the black conector. Possibly check where the connector bolts to the battery terminal. Clean it all up good. I'm not saying that will fix it, but it wouldn't hurt to check.
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Glad you found it before you were going down the freeway and it came apart.
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+1 on checking the firing order.
+2 on firing order especially if you removed all of the wires before changing the cap.
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If the welds were before the cat it would dilute the readings.
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I'm pretty sure the radio's on that circuit, too.
Odd that it's affecting the starting system. Could be two separate issues. I would give the fuse links at the battery a look, though, make sure they're not corroded/smoked.
Good point. I would also take the piece off of the battery terminal where the fuseable links mount. Give it a good cleaning. I had a headlight issue on my brother's pathfinder. The lights wouldn't turn on. Everything else worked fine. After removing and cleaning that piece the headlights worked again.
What I'm trying to say is start with the easy stuff and work your way to the harder stuff. More times that not, it is the easy stuff that gives you the most issues.
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You said you flushed the calipers. Did you check to see if the pistons in the calipers were stuck? That would cause a pull when braking. You can still run fluid through the hose with a stuck piston. If it a stuck piston I would rebuild it and get some fine steel wool to polish the piston if there is any rust or build up on the piston.
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You won't have a dome light, clock in the dash. The radio might be on the same circuit, I forget.
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If I remember right O2's are supposed to be changed out at about 100k. It wouldn't hurt to change it. I was still getting good fuel mileage on my rig with a bad O2.
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That fuse should blow before frying any wires. Did you smell smoke? Have you re checked the fuse to see if it blew again? If it did then I would say you have a wire shorting out.
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Could you explain you issues a little more? That might help diagnose your problem better.
When does it buck? Under acceleration or steady throttle? Distributor might cause those issues.
The maf could lose its ground from time to time. Why, I don't know. You can add a ground to the existing ground. Make sure you get the right wire, or you will be fixing some burnt wires.
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How many miles do you have on the O2 sensor? O2's can get slow as they age. Even if it shows good you might consider changing it. If you get too much fuel into the cat it can plug it. Plugged exhaust is not good.
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Mechanical engine timing.
This ^
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I had to put a new sender into my brother's pathfinder. It would not read properly. I thought it might be the gauge. I looked in the service manual to do the sweep test but I was unable to make the gauge sweep. I tried messing with the sending unit and I could get the gauge to move.
Went to the wreckers and found a good one to use. All good now.
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That is pretty sweet. Too bad they didn't have those when I was in. I worked on the 1st gen hummers. They were big, but would go almost anywhere. The worst part of working on them was trying to figure out how the drivers damaged what they did.
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I was looking at that in the fsm. I wasn't sure if that would change the engagement point. I suppose I could mess with it and see if that helps.
It's good to know that the clutch is tall normally. I feel better knowing that. I assumed that my pathfinders clutch was going out. Then when I put a new clutch in my brother's rig it was the same I thought something might be wrong with his.
Thanks B.
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I have searched and didn't find anything. I know that with a hydraulic clutch there are no adjustments.
I ask because the engagement point is very high. It is the same on both pathfinders I have. Both are 95's, 1 is 4x4, 1 is 4x2. The 4x2 has a new clutch.
So is it normal to have a high engagement point?
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I have a 2" lift with 31's. Manual transmission. At 70 mph I'm about 3000 rpm's. Back and forth from work I get 16-17 mpg. If I'm a longer trip I can get right around 20 mpg. I don't drive it like I stole it.
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Generally the alignment tool comes with the clutch kit. If not I would try your local part stores.
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Turned out great.
Anyone running a steering stabilizer? Thoughts?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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I have a rancho stabilizer. I can't say I have notice a difference on the black top. I didn't take my rig off road before putting it on, so I can't comment there.