96Pathfinder4x4
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Posts posted by 96Pathfinder4x4
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I'm interested in the quote. How many miles? I have 225k on mine and have been curious what the cost of a rebuild is on the R50.
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Ok thanks for the help so far. Again, what is the correct factory height for a 2002 R50 SE? Because mine sits level at all four corners, and if that's factory then I could assume my springs are fine right?
Also, the main reason I won't lift the rear and not the front is because I really hate the stinkbug stance, and would have to lift the front at the same time- $$$. Because I really had a bad experience with a spring compressor, I'm just leaving that kind of front install to the "pros."
I feel ya on the spring compressor...I get nervous every time I use them. I go overboard and use 2 sets.
I went with the OME stiff springs on the front and new KYB struts. I couldn't compress them enough....too stiff.
I took the struts and springs to the shop and they charged me $20 to put 'em on. Struts themselves, just bolt in...then take it in for an alignment.
The rear, you don't have to compress the springs at all. Just unbolt the swaybar, shocks (just bottom side), and the panhard bar. Now the truck is sitting on the springs. Jack up one side...high as you can...slip the spring in. Let down. Repeat on other side. Bolt everything back in place. Easy peasy.
It's a good time to replace your shocks too, while you already have one side unbolted.
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Fleury's looks like quality work. I would love to see a package deal.
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Can't edit?
It would be nice to have...people always ask if it's a 4runner.
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Nice. I didn't even know those existed. I've seen the Xterra ones....
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You will probably need an adapter.
I can't view Amazon at work, but found this on Google search.
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Yep, rear springs are EASY. Just need a jack.
If you're bottoming out, bump stops are just going to get tore up prematurely. Fix the bottoming out issue.
Even my WJ springs were easy to do, after trimming them to fit.
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I have the big factory "PATHFINDER" rack, and it says the weight limit is 150 evenly spread pounds IIRC
Have a pic? I have no clue what you're talking about. I remember something like that on the older WD21s but nothing on the R50....?
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I don't know why you pulled em...but if you fill them, I 2nd borninabarn. Weld is the only way to do it. If you use body filler, it will crack your paint eventually and rust. Lots of experience on VW beetles.
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How did you get Nissan to fix the recalls without $100 inspection? Did you get a letter in the mail?
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If you look at my tires...I don't have spacers. I'm just not a fan of spacers or adapters. I've seen them break.
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Definitely check the for loose bolts...that should be every time you're under the vehicle.
You have a standard or automatic?
Clunk can be anything from trans, front diff, suspension, etc. Definitely have to get under there and figure out what's making the noise.
Brakes: Warped rotors from the factory have to be pretty darn rare. If I replace rotors, I'm a huge Brembo fan...don't know if they make them for the R50.
I would bet you have a clogged/bad piston cylinder. Try flushing the brake fluid...or even rebleed?
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Is there a continuation thread?
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Haven't pulled the trigger yet?
I know how budgets can be....waited and scored my wheel/tire combo on Craigslist.
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Just wanted to say, thank you for the website. Love my Pathfinder, it is getting up there in age and mileage and I am looking for fellow owners who know more about the truck than I do, what reasonable repair costs look like, etc, etc. As I gain more information, I'll be glad to contribute. Thanks again!
Sorry for the late response.
The only major repair I have paid for is setting the timing to pass smog...and I have 225k on the original engine ///knock on wood///.
If it's older, then the parts are usually cheaper.
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I don't think mine would be considered slim. Pretty wide and seem beefy. Wasn't too stable with a cooler sitting lengthwise, so last time, I set the cooler on the roof, pinched it from sliding using the crossbars, and strapped it down.
The roof got pretty scratched up. I was more concerned with bowing it down.
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Anyone know what the roof rack weight limit happens to be on an R50?
I'm looking at a fabbed roof rack that bolts to the stock roof rack. Probably put gas cans, cooler, tent, ez-up, etc...
The ad shows a guy standing on the rack...I think it may be an FJ.
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ptd/4047366423.html
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Vid of that Magnaflow sound?
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Im gunna have massive rubbing. Im running 34s
You'll just have to trim a bit.
The plastic behind the tire rubs when I turn hard....no rubbing during normal driving.
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Like ferrariowner mentioned....it's all about the backspacing. Minimum, even without a lift, IIRC is 3.75". If you're buying new, just make sure you're at least 4" and your good to go!
Oh...and there's a loooooooong thread in the stickies for your reading pleasure.
P.S. don't forget...we like pics.
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I used the writeups on here as well, when I did mine. The only on-going advice I have is to ziptie your brake lines! lol!
Looks good! Now time to get a little mud on the tires!
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The VG sounds like it has an aftermarket exhaust. My VG sounds nothing close to that.
The VQ sounds stock. Sounds just like mine.
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Nice! I've been curious, if my VG ever dies (230k) if the VQ will sit in there. Has it been done?
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I have a 4" SFD with 2" Spring lift. Pic for reference. I fit 33s no problem...a bit of rubbing up front, but once the plastic wears it shouldn't rub any longer.
I need some advices about installing new springs - Ironman.
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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Did you buy 1" lifts springs?