fishodeath

Thanks for the advice ahardb0dy! Sawzall is a good idea, I didn't consider that option. I live in washington state. I did look at rockauto and I may just buy the new part, I was mainly using the junkyard to practice getting the parts off. I was also considering getting headers (so I'd want a larger pipe going back) but I think I'll skip that for now.

Thanks for the concern nige- I fixed it with some exhaust puddy and wrap shortly after my previous post... seems to be holding up (my friend with the welder is being lame). Only a temp fix, but at least I'm not spewing exhaust all under my rig now. I tried to pull a Y-pipe off a truck at the pick n pull, but I snapped my extension. I'll be going back for round two soon. Any advice on getting to the bolts that connect the manifold to the y-pipe?

Replaced the rear window hinges and the window washer fluid tank with parts from a pick n pull. AND vacuumed 'er!

Thanks for the ideas guys! I have a friend who is a welder, I could probably have him tack something in place as a temp solution. I'm missing my tail pipe right now and I've got the "broken stud" tick. I want to try and replace most everything manifold back, but I don't have a garage or all the tools so prolly won't happen anytime soon. What were you gonna say Tungsten? Got me all curious now...

Ah somehow that really helped. So I'll need Y-pipe, possibly midpipe and all the gaskets for those connections right? The drawing from the FSM was confusing me, I couldn't tell what was going on, but having the name helped me find it on rockauto. Thanks!

So my pathy suddenly got louder the other day and after checking it out, I found the cause: I could feel the exhaust coming out of this connection while the car was running. Another pic to help orient this piece: And finally another angle: So my question is what should I do? I tried looking up a replacement part, and I can't seem to figure out which parts I would need to get... Is is bad to drive like this? Sorry for the newb questions, I'm still learning (I'm proud to have found the leaking part at all )

I got a generic adapter kit at walmart for like $15. Came with parts for various nissan/honda models, I only needed one of them. This attached to the cage that comes with a new head unit. I started w/o a factory stereo or harness, just a gaping hole with wires. Was something like this - http://www.ahwooga.com/detail.asp?id=281378 (not sure if its the same, but you only need one part)

Just did this today (only had my pathfinder for a few weeks). Don't think it'd been done before. Luckily the cage seemed to be working on the resistors and there was no charred debris, still feels good to get it out. Probably 3-4 cups worth of crap piled up there. Uploaded with ImageShack.us side note - I noticed that one of the screws for the blower was missing (far right edge in above photo). Should I worry about this? anyone know what size it is (was)?

Well I got more info now- Two of the 4 wires in the harness for the dimmer switch go to 12v when the running lights or lights are on. Assuming black is ground, then the final wire goes to the dash lights? The dimmer switch did ramp the voltage between two of the pins as I spin the wheel when I tested it with a 9v and the multimeter. But I can't figure out what the 4th pin is for. Either way, seems like the dimmer is good? So I guess my problem is between the dash lights and the dimmer switch... I don't really want to pull out the entire dash...

Thanks for the ideas guys, I'll borrow my friends multimeter and see if I can't get it narrowed down...

So, I have no dash lights in my pathfinder (never had them since I bought it). I've done some searching, and its NOT the following: Bulbs - I recently fixed the instrument cluster voltage regulator and checked the bulbs when I had the instrument cluster out, both lit up fine with a 9v. Fuses - I've checked all these. Also, other things on the same(?) fuse work - taillight etc. Specifically- All my instrument lights work (e-brake, turn signals, 4x4, brights, etc.) Its just the tach/speedo lights that don't come on. Also the in-dash brake indicator doesn't light up... But the actual tail lights do light up. After some searching I'm wondering if my dimmer switch is bad? I pulled it out and looked at it and cleaned it with no luck. So I have two questions: 1- Does this sound like the dimmer switch? 2- I've read you can just bypass it to get the dash lights back (as a temp solution while looking for a replacement). Anyone know which wires to connect to do this? I saw a Black, A Pink/Black, and two Pink/Blues running into the dimmer. I'm scared to just cross two wires w/o being sure... Any help would be appreciated!

Just did this, works great! First time soldering anything, pretty basic. Was buggin me having no temp gauge.