1990pathy

im going to try what kingman said tomorrow.. for now here is a pic of the said bolt

well im not putting in the manual tranny yet.. because i still need to teach my girl how to drive a stick.... so untill then the auto will stay in.. i got the starter off. oil filter, and exhuast manifold off.. i even tried to air hammer a 13mm socket on and still stripped out.. im stummped

yes that dam bolt

its not the torque converter bolt.. its the bolt that holds the inspection plate to the tranny that you have to remove to get to the torque converter bolts.. and there is no way to get in there with anything but a long extension

the head its rounded..its the 14 mm

so you guys know that bolt that is below the starter to open up the flywheel to get to the torque converter bolts well it stripped and i have no clue what to do!@!!!!!!!!!!!! f$#k

the timing belt and waterpump are good.. they both look brand new.. no cracking on the timing belt teeth

im way over on cash and am broke. if i double up the exhuast manifold gaskets from both motors will that be good to seal it up.... almost ready to pull the motor, just gotta unhook the trans and exhuast y pipe.. damm these v6s are heavy...lol

here she is.. the motor and tranny....

going to pick up the motor and trans today..does anyone live in eugene or springfield? if you live by me you can come help..lol

thanks man.. in my haynes it says i have to drop the front end??? i was like ya right!!!hahah

so what is the quickest and best way to remove the motor?

here is some pics of what tearing apart i got done today

just another vg30(E) but it needed replaced anyway... and ya im pretty mechanically inclined so i should have no issues.. but if i do run into problems ill let you know..and ill post pics of the whole swap...

im buying it on friday.. and im doing a manual swap, sorry.. tired of the lagging auto trans anyway

http://eugene.craigslist.org/pts/2439074017.html will this motor work for my pathfinder.. i called and its only got 60,000 miles on it... or so they say!!!!

i can get a motor from a 94 for 400 bucks with just over 100,000 miles but damm this is going to suck

what i meant was, while turning the crank should there be resistance, like the cylinder building compression, cause all my plugs are in and i can spin the crank fairly easy.

is there a way to tell if the valves are bent by turning the crankshaft? can you rotate the crankshaft all the way 360 degrees with the cams in the tdc spot?......

have no clue on miles on the belt.. but ive been trying to change the belt for a couple months now but never got around to it because both me and my girl work alot and its our only car,, so i guess i should of done it.. i know the belt says nissan on it,, barely. but it looks very old

im sure there is bent valves.. cause i tried to start it after it died and there is a tick sound so i think that sound is the piston hitting the valve.. but not sure

well i can spin the rotor inside the distributer by hand so i think it did snap ill take pics and ya it just died like it ran out of gas.. but i just filled up.. and when it died the tach jumped up and down alot

so i was driving home on the freeway going about 60...and boom the pathy dies...so i pull of to start it..and its not starting... it sounds like its turning over slower than it should... i think the timing belt snaped.. but i dont know..anyone have any tips

just turned over to 259000.. still has the original front seats and frame.........lol