2milehi

This item will definitely determine the pH of your coolant. Test Strips There seems to be some subjectivity with a volt meter.

Heavy brick needs a power adder. You could add a turbo/intercooler, but then you have to add a programmable ECU. I pull a 19' boat and that inspired me to add the power adder. I also thought about adding a Xtera supercharger but that would require a hole in the hood.

First before throwing $100s at this problem confirm that there is an issue with the manifolds. You more than likely have a broken stud. Remove the broken stud and install another stud and I am betting that you will be good to go. To be even more super-inexpensive, to go a junkyard and remove hardened steel exhaust studs from say a Mitsubishi.

Fixed

To me it is better to drain the radiator, block, and heater core then add 50/50 mix. No pockets of tap water. I tried the vinegar thing with the engine running. It just ate the water pump seal. A gallon of antifreeze is about $10, a gallon of distilled water is $0.50. So two gallons of 50/50 is ~$11 Two gallons of 50/50 premix will run you $19. I'll gladly save $8 by mixing it myself.

Yeah...Like mechanics have never made stories up before. What was wrong with the radiator and water pump? If the radiator was corroded, then tap water is to blame.

Wait for the water pump to go or a hose to split then drain the radiator and block. Then add a 50-50 mix of anti-freeze and distilled water. Coolant doesn't really deteriorate so if your coolant tests good leave it alone. As for flushing the system don't do it. Tap water is used which has minerals in it and that can cause problem later.

HOT DAMN! So I wired up the EDIS to the cam sensor plug, landed the spark plugs wires to the correct ignition terminal, gave 12 volts and a ground to the EDIS, plugged in my MS/ECU interface, and it started on the first try. I am wearing a grin ear to ear. Ignition advance works like it should and it is pig rich right now. I will straighten out the wiring, add a GM IAT sensor, calibrate the CTS. The hard part is over! On to tuning...

This but I am using an EDIS-6

There is emissions testing in the metro Denver area. I live 70 miles from Denver and there is no emissions test. More progress - I welded some mounting tabs onto the EDIS coil pack.

Exactly and I should have clarified that. I wanted to post a separate topic with my MegaSquirt build but I was asked to keep all of my "improvements" in a single topic. So I treat this like a build journal. I will distinguish what I am doing in future posts.

This is for the new ECU. I am added a MegaSquirt to replace the factory ECU. The MS will allow me to tune the fuel maps with a laptop, control ignition, and add a boost controller. This will allow me to use a Ford's Electronic Distributorless Ignition System (EDIS). The EDIS can be controlled by the MS to give variable timing advance. There is even a fail-safe built into the EDIS. All the module needs is the VR signal and the EDIS will work giving you 10 º BTDC timing. This is essentially what I am addign in. Added the 36-1 trigger wheel and VR pick-up. Trigger wheel welded to the bigger pulleys. Every third tooth is tack welded. Looking up at pick-up and trigger wheel Close-up of pick-up looking down

Thanks for all of the help. I temporarily installed the EDIS ignition system and started up the Pf. I adjusted the trigger wheel until it read 10º BTDC and then welded it on.

Thanks for the heads up. Yeah you can bolt the timing marks 6 different ways. I gotta say that this has to be Nissan's low point. This is about the most Mickey Mouse way of indicating timing marks.

Really - you gave some info that was not correct when you said to look at my emission sticker. You are human and can make mistakes or have a misunderstand yourself. I have searched on the 'net for an explanation for setting timing and the manuals show some graphic of the timing marks. None match the VG30s, but all of the others show ATDC indications. Hence why I have my doubts. . . . . . . . OK, OK looks like you are correct. I am sorry I doubted you. I finally found a pic that explains what you were trying to say. I need to make a bracket that holds the VR sensor and I need to be certain of where TDC is. Measure twice, cut once.

The emissions sticker just says 15° BTDC, there is no picture explaining the various timing marks. I am not convinced that your guys are certain. The reason I ask is because I am adding a VR and a trigger wheel to the pulleys. I need to know for sure which mark is TDC. Here is an example of what I am doing.

This probably belongs in "The Garage" but I can't post there yet. So how are the timing marks divided up? I have searched to only find conflicting data. I am assuming that the red line identifies 10° ATDC. Each division is 5° and the last mark is 20° BTDC. Is this correct?

Then those people shouldn't be so quick to state "It can't be done". I have heard the same thing over at the Subaru community. There are a small number of us who added a WRX turbo/intercooler to a stock Subie, but there are many who bag on the new guys asking turbo install questions with a "You need to swap a WRX engine, not just the turbo, it won't work". And they don't expand upon it. This pic ususlly shuts the non-believers up.

Fair enough about keeping the build-up in one post. I am still learning proper posting conduct here.

Good thing I built it before I posted over here. I didn't realize that there were people on here that said it can't be done. I am moving onto stage two of this project. I have a MegaSquirt that I am interfacing to the factory wiring. I'll start another post for that one.

If it is reliability you are insisting on then with that train of thought, you should get a new engine. But wait why stop there, everything is wore out at 100k miles. So you should buy a new vehicle for that piece of mind. LOL

Well you can bugger up the install of the new seal and you will be doing it over again, you can have a bad new seal and do it over again, and etc. I'm with adamzan, if you are doing the work and the seals look good and don't leak leave them be. If they do start to leak (there is a high probability that they won't) then you take it apart and fix it. There won't be any catastrophic failure if your cam seal leaks a little. Heck since the water pump is driven by the v-belts, if the pump isn't leaking and works good leave it be. Murphy's law - the part that breaks will be the old one that is next in line to the new one.

10-4 on the exhaust leak. Getting that last one out is gonna suck. I am pretty happy with the install. Starting today I will jump into the second phase of the upgrade - adding a MegaSquirt for fuel/ignition control.

Why not rebuild your master cylinder - $45 for a '91 Pathfinder Rebuild kit link

Here are the videos - please try and ignore the awful exhaust tick. With a boost gauge I was seeing 5 psi. Rowing through the gears http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpyATuY5WZc Drive by http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KE6O7C9zoCw