devonianwalk

I love my duratrac's but, think that they might look a little too aggressive to convince your mom.

Thank you.

Adamzan had a point in that it only took me ten minutes to replace the #6 plug. After I figured out to loosen and pull the three brake lines away from the firewall, it was relativley easy to place the 3" socket extension, universal joint, and 5/8" spark plug socket directly to the plug before dropping the 8" extension into place. Now that all of my plugs have been replaced, the dadgum thing still won't start. I'm going to put my volt meter to various plugs on the distributor to determine if I've some how lost some sensors. Does any one know how to check the TPS?

Hey .. wait a minute! R50's don't have body lifts!

I'll be sure to give my feed back tomorrow morning. I'm really hoping that this alliviates the "no start" problemo that I have.

My strut had started to strip the top threads. Don't really know why. Actually, I've never heard of any complaints at all about the KYB's? A friend and I installed the struts with the AC lift in his shop. Another friend of mine is a mechanic at a garage and "turned in" the strut for me as they install KYB's all the time. He's the one that did the ground work for my free replacement.

10 minutes? Where's that middle finger emoticon? ...

I too run the RS5000's on my AC lift. No worries here?

I too replaced my passenger side. I wonder if that had anything to do with my strut replacement?

I just had to replace my KYB-GR2 passenger side strut for the same darn thing! The shop I took it to replaced it for free (waranty) but charged me the labor. I did not complain too much.

Sort of OT ... I can't seem to get anything from my sprayer. The tank is full and the jets are clear. The fuses seem to check out alright. Where in the hell is the pump located?

Okay, 1,2,3,4,and 5 are done. I'll tackle #6 tomorrow morning. I used an air compressor to blow out the plug locations before I completely removed the old plugs. Man, these things look shot! I'm glad that I had a foot of fuel line left over from replacing the fuel system on my "hot rod" (you know the one? Only drive it on the weekends. Never drive it in the rain. Has a 42" cut) to use for threading the new plugs. I used some anti-seize so that I won't be so bummed next time around. I took Precise's recommendation and grabed a mechanic's mirror and an 8" socket extension along with the universal joint attachment. Hopefully I can find the patience!

I use mine all the time. Usually in the early morning with the dew as it returns until the defroster catches up.

Good advice.

You should be, it looks great.

Thank you. Thank you. THANK YOU! Great advice. I will pick up a mirror when I get the u-joint extension. I work in a lab and have access to the cotton tip applicators. I'm a gonna' steal from work today!

Jebus! This is the first time I've tried to change the plugs myself on the 3.3L. Looks like I'm going to pick up an extra long rachet extension and figure out just how in the hell I'm going to get that infamous #6 plug. I'm also going to use the air compressor to blow out the remaining water/silt that is currently sitting on top of my plugs.

I'd paste the link here but I'm on my phone. Search around the R50 forums for the threads about the lift and where to get them.

Only way to tell is to put one of your front tires on a stump or in a ditch until the back tire starts to rub your rear fender.

Look at the passenger side strut tower in the second pic ... it's your old NX4's!

It does look good. I like the white letters out on your rig.

I'll try that first. She was putting out black smoke and had a very heavy odor of gasoline.

The air filter was wet and filthy. The back side of it, however, was clean and dry. I checked the MAF and it appeared to be clean. I re-rinsed the tops of the plugs yesterday afternoon and left the hood up today to allow them to dry. I'll pull the passenger side plugs this afternoon.

My mistake, it will "turn over". It just won't start. There seems to be no fire at all. I can sometimes get it to start by giving it full throttle. When it does, it has lots of knock with the heavy smell of gas. That is what leads me to think that it has something to do with the plugs since the distributor visually checks out and, as you mentioned, the flashing CEL.

That would be worth looking at (the wiper transmission) as it could be taxing the electricals too much. If the motor is drawing too much amperage, it would/should blow the fuse. What kind of 12v power source did you hook the motor to?