TERRANONZjnr

i voted for mr510 .....deepest crossing and most likly to be stuck when the photo was actually taken

welcom chap, tidy truck too

sweet, i think he had a template or plans to work off, pm him

sweet as man, have a look at kiwipetes build thread, sick truck and even better in person! heres a link... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22195&st=20

yeah bnt hornby, my front is lower then the rear too, the front torsions sag a bit with age as well, give it another couple of weeks to settle a bit then tweak the torsions. i could give you a hand if you want

did you buy em from bnt?

im with both replies, my old (@#$%&)ie: toyota hilux...... had a funny squeak, and the wheel bearings were totally stuffed. jack the truck up and jiggle the wheels to see if theres any play, and check if theyre greased well enough.

hey mate, how long ago did you do the springs? sometimes they have to settle a little. i whiped some weight into the back of mine for a coiuple of weeks to settle them a bit more.

yeah i suppose, in saying that, it seems to have more then other terrys ive looked at. i simply cant understand it... im pretty sure there isnt any differences in the bottom arms across the d21 range. or are there?

aranay, that golf is awesome!!! went to my first vw nationals in a mk2 golf with a gti conversion. cool, cool cars! my current ride - 94 v6 pathy. other shed dweller - 95 xr250r. engine fully rebuilt..

ok so i lifted the terry a little while ago, and it drove fine, it had a bit of positve camber but i wasnt too worried. now, however, its really annoying me as the tyres wear more on the shoulders. i had a quick check of the shims, and theres only a couple of shims left altogether (just to help out the castor) i cant figure out how it still has positive camber i have terrys come in to work that have been lifted as well, and sometimes higher then mine, and they have negative camber still. are there differences between arms on different year terrys? ive had a look at my bushes and joints, and they all look fine. the chassis isnt bent either. i'm miffed as to what my problem is. Can anyone offer any advice?

i stopped by the thread tex! was rough at work (BNT) too, parts off the shelves all over the place. buildings fine though. gf's house has no running water and is a mission getting out there as she is only 3-400 meters from the first downed building. went and rescued tex and our flatmate in avonside after they dropped the fuel trailer into a huge crack in the road. terrano went for a swim in the avonriver/road to get there. roads are vertually covered in silt and looks like a grey beach. feeling a bit helpless sitting at home when there are people stuck in collapsed buildings. thoughts are with the families of the deceased. Rodney

i'd stick with the 15s myself, theyre generally cheaper then 16s over here at least, and most trucks of the era came out with them too....my 2 cents...

hmmmmmm, is this actually this easy? ive only ever known one auto sparky friend to do this to his landcruiser, but it took him a little while to do. are the results worth the effort? i can get the neccesary parts very cheap through my work, and if its easy enough, could i do it within an afternoon/weekend?

! yeah this forum is awesome. helpful people in here...

i had another look at mine today, and my camber is positve both sides! i think i need to remove my washers and replace them with thinner ones. you can even see the wheels cambering out at the top when you look towards the front of the truck!

sounds good. hope it all goes ok

yup, it lools like they did the classic 'toe and go!' adjusting anything will affect the rest of the specs. obviously this alignment was out of their league, or the tech just couldnt be bothered. i got mine aligned a couple of days after lifting my truck, and told the tech before he started, that he'd have to do some shim workand it drives fine now. (helps that i sorta taught him) if it were me, i'd be taking it back (with the sheet) and pointing out that he hasnt adjusted the castor at all, and dont let him say that it cant be done. shims are there for a reason! even half a degree would make a difference. if he cant do it, or wants to re-charge you, take it to someone who actually knows how to do it!

that left front castor is off spec sitting behind the right front. that can cause left drift. did they even play with your shims at all!???

^agreed! i did alignments for a few years and sometimes had to do the alignment a couple of times on vehicles to get them perfect. some shops will make their employees lift the vehicle onto the hoist swivel plates (unsettling the susp), and a really good cycle would help. The t bar idea is about right, but a problem could also lie with the technician not doing it right. tyre wear comes into it as well, a bit of outside shoulder wear on the left front or the right inner could do it too. have you swapped them front to rear? if you can post up the alignment printout we can take a look assuming you got given one?

just did it today, much easier then expected! awesome thread! cheers

the game of all games!

ooooh i'll start second!! 360 gamer tag ROENUT facebook = http://www.facebook.com/#!/roenut

not a huge difference in size, but over time (in 4x4) it'll damage the transfer case. as for the tyre selection, it all depends on what you want to do with the truck. in a work vehicle ie: heavy loads and heavy towing you'd want a light truck tyre, but most good rv tyres would be 6 ply and can handle it. if you want to get busy offroad, go for a decent set of muds or all terrains, or you could talk to your local tyre shops to see whats available. have a good look through the forums and see what people are using on their trucks. just my opinion though

is it expensive to get stuff shipped over here? im keen on a hoodie and a t-shirt but dont know where to start