Towncivilian

Fuel is always being pumped from the bottom of the tank. Any "stuff" would get sucked in first regardless and filtered by the fuel pump strainer and then the fuel filter. There are filters on the gasoline pumps as well.

Replaced the dead rear defroster main light bulb. Only took me half an hour; those switches are easier to reassemble than I remember, because I was doing it completely wrong the last time I opened them. Only problems are I didn't move the blue condom light filter to the new bulb so it looks off-color and brighter, and the spring now has resistance and makes noise (maybe I should have regreased it while it was open).

Throttle body spacers are useless (http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28941&st=0&p=550471). It'd be more beneficial for performance to bypass the coolant lines on the throttle body instead, which will theoretically reduce the intake air temperature since the throttle body & upper intake manifold won't be as hot. (pics courtesy of Pwnin O'Brien, VQ35DE) I'm not sure of the cooling circuit or feasibility of this mod on a VG33E, check the FSM for details.

CONSULT (1) cables & software used for the pre-ODB2 Nissan/Infiniti vehicles are available aftermarket, but nothing is available for the CONSULT-II which is what our Pathfinders use. It's a dealer-only diagnostic tool. I don't know what the solenoid wants in this case, you'll need to peruse the EC section more.

OK, your reasoning is sound regarding the filters & OCIs in my opinion. No need to derail the thread. I dump in 5 quarts and the oil is full on the dipstick for me. I seriously doubt the 1/4qt will make any difference. If the code reappears, I'd try going up a grade next oil change - try 0W-40 or 5W-40 or if the weather permits, 10W-40. No point in going to a 10W-30, the viscosity at operating tempearture will be nearly identical and you'd just lose better flow at cold starts. I've read anecdotal reports that higher oil pressure keeps the P1110 code away.

The "A/T OIL TEMP" light is only present on 4WD models. Technically, the light still works, there's just no temperature probe on 2WD vehicles as far as I know, so it'd never actually light up should the ATF be too hot. I added a bulb to that spot on my 2WD R50 just to have the additional warning lamp should my alternator fry.

Many vehicles don't have drain plugs on the transmission or differential(s).

The lower tier Fram filters are junk - they have lousy construction for the price and sometimes have poorly sealing anti drainback valves, so I wouldn't use any Fram filter except an XtendedGuard which is built like a tank. K&N filters are identical to Mobil 1 filters, they just have the welded nut on the bottom. If you're insistent on using K&N filters, switch to M1 and save the $2. I also think you're completely wasting your money changing out M1 at 3k intervals. Switch to any name-brand conventional and keep using quality filters and you'll be fine.

What oil & filter are you running?

The differentials specify GL-5 fluid, which MT-90 does not meet.

My "previous owner" didn't do anything stupid, because the previous owner was my mother.

This should indeed be the case, unless someone swapped a VG33E into a 2001+ R50.

You don't have LSD.

There will be a radioactive orange sticker on the diff casing that says "LSD OIL ONLY" or something to that effect. You can also provide your VIN and somebody with FAST can look up your options.

I removed my instrument cluster lens and polished it because it had some irritating circular spots on it from overspray of 303 Aerospace Protectant. I got most of the spots out, so I'm happy.

Yep, the transfer case holds 2.32 quarts. Front diff takes 1.58 quarts, rear diff takes 2.95 quarts.

Use gear oil (GL-4) in the transfer case if you can. ATF was used in the factory, but probably for simplicity's sake rather than being the better choice.

Upload pictures to www.imgur.com and link to them.

Replace your gas cap with a new OEM one to start with.

I looked up the exact part # for you too.

Check RockAuto, they're around $100 each there. Does your 1996 have glass headlamps? My 2001.5 has plastic headlamps and they're like $25 each aftermarket. If you order from RockAuto be sure to use a 5% discount code.

1996-2000 had the VG33E. 2001-2004 models had the VQ35DE.

The timing chain "should" last the life of the vehicle, so unless it's making excessive noise I wouldn't touch it. I also wouldn't replace the water pump until it fails - mine is still fine at 131k miles. My entire cooling system is original for that matter, except the overflow hose.

This was the first thing I ever did to my Pathfinder - I had both P1140 and P1145 codes. I bought a couple of the Standard Motor Products camshaft position sensors from the linked guide in the first post and replaced them, and codes went away. Still working fine after about 20k miles.