Towncivilian

Anything that claims to meet Dexron III specifications will work. I use Castrol Import Multi Vehicle in my Pathfinder. If you live near Advance Auto Parts, you can order ATF online using discount codes then pick-up in store to save a bunch of money. Some ATFs are excluded from discounts; I'm pretty sure all Valvoline and Mobil 1 ATF are, but Castrol isn't from what I recall. You'll want a 1/4" drive torque wrench for the inch-pound values, and a 3/8" or 1/2" drive torque wrench for the higher values. Harbor Freight sells both for relatively cheap. $12.99 each with coupon.

Yeah, I'd adjust the TPS to spec (see EC-135) and maybe do a drain & fill of the fluid to begin with (or preferably a pan drop & filter change if it's not too inconvenient for you), then a couple more drain & fills a few weeks apart to gently clean things out and gradually replace all the fluid. The torque spec for the drain plug is 25 ft/lbs; you shouldn't need to replace the drain plug washer according to the FSM. If you do a pan drop, the in-pan filter bolts' and the transmission pan bolts' torque spec is 61.2 - 78 inch pounds. Be sure the filter has a new O-ring before installing it; lubricate it with petroleum jelly before putting it on the filter. Remove the in-pan donut magnet and clean it very thoroughly, and if you've got any additional donut magnets, laying around throw them in the pan. Good luck!

How have you maintained the fluid? Does the E/AT light blink while driving?

How has the fluid been maintained? Ever did a drain & fill, or a pan drop, or a complete fluid exchange? Not saying you should have done the latter two necessarily, just wondering if you've maintained the fluid at all. The rear differential fluid is easy to change out yourself, it has drain and fill plugs. If you've got a front diff you'd want to do that too. Get Mobil 1 75W-90 gear oil from Advance Auto Parts - order online and use discount codes then pick up in store for mucho savings. You'll need 3qt for the rear and 2qt for the front. A fluid pump would help immensely here. You may want to get a 13mm drain plug socket too to ease removal of the plugs; this drain plug socket set from Harbor Freight includes one. Be sure to use a 20% off coupon if you buy it. The torque spec is 43 - 87 ft lbs for both front & rear diff drain and fill plugs; if you need a torque wrench, the Harbor Freight coupon page I linked has a coupon for a $13.99 1/2" drive torque wrench; some magazines or Harbor Freight coupon papers have these on sale for $9.99.

Check the fluid level and condition following these instructions: 1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature. 2. Park on a level surface and apply the parking brake. 3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P. 4. Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level. It must be within the notched area labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel. The fluid should be red, and not smell burnt. How has the transmission fluid been maintained?

Try performing the three relearn procedures described on page EC-81 of the FSM.

The 03 has drive by wire, not mechanical TB. Check that the accelerator pedal's return spring is installed properly. I'm not at home right now but will check for TSBs later.

Bar soap? Sounds like it'd just make the belt slip just as a belt dressing would. I wouldn't band aid it - fix it right by replacing the belts. Hopefully that will resolve the noise.

See MA-15 for a diagram and torque specs. I don't know anything else about drive belt replacement though, sorry! I'd suggest OEM belts or Goodyear Gatorback belts. A shop replaced my belts with Goodyear Gatorback belts and they seem fine, no noise at all after about 25k miles so far.

Best way to clean the TB and idle air control valve (if equipped) would be to remove them, then clean with a throttle body cleaner aerosol product, and reinstall with new gaskets if possible. Intake cleaning is best done using a product which foams up, such as Amsoil Power Foam or Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner as I mentioned before. Follow the directions of course!

One ton is 2,000 lbs. Your floor jack must have been lousy or defective. Do you not have an orange "LSD" sticker on the diff cover?

VQ35DE Pathfinders only have two belts. You don't need 11950N.

Seafoam is pale oil, naptha, and isopropyl alcohol. Overpriced for what it is. I second using the 3M kit, or something like Amsoil Power Foam or Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner.

Are you going to use the "Chevron Fuel Injector Cleaner" or "Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner"? Only the latter has PEA in it, which is what you want for good cleaning.

NTB01-055a - 2001 PATHFINDER AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 1-2 OR 2-3 SHIFT FLARE What's the level and condition of the transmission fluid? 1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature. 2. Park on a level surface and apply the parking brake. 3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P. 4. Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level. It must be within the notched area labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel. The fluid should be red, and not smell burnt.

This TSB might apply to you: NTB00-059b - 2001 PATHFINDER; MIL "ON" DTC P1441 (EVAP VERY SMALL LEAK) STORED IN SELF DIAGNOSIS RESULTS, see if your VIN or build date is in the affected range.

No, you shouldn't need one. Maybe if O2 sensor codes pop back up within a few hundred miles, but that TSB is only for rear O2 sensor replacement with OEM parts.

Is your gas cap the original factory one? If it is, replace it with a new OEM one.

This thread should illustrate the steps for you. You will need new inner bearing grease seals. I'd recommend using a synthetic grease.

Replaced rear shocks with KYB Gas-A-Justs. Really easy, took 30 minutes for the first side and 10 minutes for the other side. Also cleaned the drum brakes. I'll need to adjust and lubricate them soon as well. Brake dust is nasty!

Yes, go ahead and use it in differentials.

Try RockAuto.com, and be sure to use a 5% discount code (Google rockauto discount codes).

Naptha and isopropyl alcohol in a pale oil carrier solvent. In other words, an overpriced solvent. I wouldn't put it in the crankcase and there are better choices for fuel system cleaning and intake cleaning. For fuel system cleaning, use a cleaner containing PEA (poly ether amines) such as Chevron Techron, Gumout Regane, or Redline SI-1. PEA cleans effectively without leaving behind its own deposits. It's best to let it sit in the tank for a while, not use the entire tank on a highway trip for example. For intake cleaning, something like Amsoil Power Foam or Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner are more effective as they foam up inside the intake.

7.3 quarts? You sure that isn't pints, or for the auto trans? Seems like a little much. The TSB states the revised capacity is 5.1 liters, or 5.38 quarts.

I think you mean power valves, not swirl valves. 48.4k miles on a 2002 Pathy is crazy and yours sounds like it's in pristine condition. Why not keep it? There isn't much that can go wrong especially if you keep up with maintenance as you have been.