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XSrcing

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Posts posted by XSrcing

    How do I know if my fan clutch is working?

    in The Garage

    Posted · Edited by XSrcing

    Unless it's freezing outside, a cold fan should spin effortlessly. Think about it, you don't want your fan pulling air through the radiator when the engine is cold, and hardly moving when air needs to be cooling the radiator.

     

    But, since they use a viscous coupling, there will always bee some drag regardless of clutch temperature.

    anyone know a way to fix seatbelts so they retract?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Ok So I went to our Warranty Administrator and got the full details from Nissan.

     

    If your local dealer is giving you problems on seat belt replacement under warranty give them this information including the Op Codes, this is straight from Nissan.

     

    WARRANTY COVERAGE

    PLAN SB

    Seat Belts - Useful life of the vehicle for 1989-2002 vehicles, 10 years for 2003 up vehicles.

    OpCode VK22AA Replace Front Seat Belt Tounge Assembly - One side

    OpCode VK213AA Replace Front Seat Belt Tounge Assembly - Both Sides

     

    If you take your vehicle to get seat belts done, and they say it is not covered, tell your Service Advisor to contact their Warranty Administrator and give this information, if they do not cooperate call 1-800-NISSAN1.

     

    This post is worthy of a permanent sticky.

    Chronic clutch hydraulic problem, damper?

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Clutch chatter is the jerky engagement you are feeling. It usually happens when you replace a clutch and don't resurface the flywheel. It isn't going to hurt anything and will eventually stop.

     

    The damper keeps slight pressure against the clutch fork to stop it from possibly rattling. Though I'm sure a faulty damper can work in complete opposite when broken and absorb any pressure you try to apply.

     

    After a thorough bleeding my clutch is working like a champ and it's back below freezing here.

    A/C

    in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Does the compressor clutch not engage or does the a/c just not get cold? There is a very good chance that all the r12 has leaked out of the system by now.

     

    A/C systems did not come from the factory with green tracer dye in them, so your system has been evacuated and recharged at least once and had the dye added. The dye is used to help pinpoint leaks in the system.

     

    If you want to pull everything out, first you need to go to any shop that performs a/c service and have them evacuate the system and pull a vacuum. Don't let them recharge it. Once that is done you can remove everything safely, but there will be a small amount of oil that seeps out. It's not harmful so just wipe it up with a rag.

    Chronic clutch hydraulic problem, damper?

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted · Edited by XSrcing

    This exact same thing just happened to me. I went on a 3 hour drive to Seattle and back with fairly warm weather, the coolant temps were normal, but underhood temps were high (especially at the back near the clutch line). Then it got down in to the teens and I let the truck sit for a while. When I get it the first time, everything is normal, but onces the truck warms up BAM there is a bubble in there. I completely flushed the system with new fluid and it is fine now.

     

    My only theory is that the long trip had caused the really, really old fluid (which is hydroscopic) to somewhat seperate: the brake fluid and the water it had absorbed had separated. Then when the temp drop the water froze. After driving, the water unfroze and evaporated causing an air bubble that would occur every time you got the engine warm. All the air bubbles were between the master cylinder and the damper.

     

    Sounds a little far fetched, but it is the only theory my friends and I could come up with. So after completely flushing my system of every trace of old fluid (I ran two bottles of fluid through the system) I have no problems anymore.

    Suspension lift information

    in The Garage

    Posted · Edited by XSrcing

    I wouldn't bother with them. They don't seem to correct ball joint angles when you crank your torsion bars. I won't recommend them to anyone. Go for the Superlift, Rough Country, Calmini or Rancho brand.

    They don't seem to or they just don't? Their website states in the description "These a-arms are designed to allow for correct ball joint angle and additional wheel travel".

     

    edit: this is in regard to the 4x4 parts UCA's.

    Sometings up with my cooling system.

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Replace your thermostat. When filling the radiator, start the engine and let it run while filling it. It will burp several times and over flow a couple. after it stops burping for a little bit, replace the cap and let the car continue to run. Once it is fully up to temp for a while, shut it off, let it cool off completely, and do it again.

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