banx

the wedding dress. yes. wd21 hell no....... though she did look pretty damn fine in it. hahaha well happy wife happy life. or so the story goes. she can now drive a standard..... so time to replace the clutch and check on the tranny.

definitely not borrowed. thing cost more than my wd21.

she used it once then left the rest of the gears on the floor.

ok, I will connect em tomorrow morning before we get on the ferry then disconnect the one when i get back on sunday. i'm bringing a fire extinguisher, extra wires and fuses too.

Hey guys, so I've been having issues with the headlights on my 91 wd21. the passenger light won't come on and the bulb is fine. I've cleaned the switch which worked for 2 weeks, made a new ground shorter to the light, which also worked for a couple of weeks,..... I ordered a new harness to connect to the battery as well as a new switch. But i'm faced with a bit of a predicament. My harness and new switch have not arrived and I'm leaving on a mini 3 day trip with the wife for some quality time. part of the trip includes a 3.5 hour highway drive along vancouver island towards tofino. I leave this friday morning. so, i'm not really concerned about driving with one headlight, I just don't really want to get a ticket while i'm waiting for my parts to arrive the wires on these lights look inadequate to me. I was 'planning' on just jumping the 2 lights together basically. have the one light power the other. I have low energy bulbs as well. my main concern is that these skinny wires won't be able to handle the load and I could catch on fire. so would it be safe to have one set of wires run both lights? i'm fairly hesitant to do this. trust you guys more than websites.... so some advice or enlightenment would be appreciated..... safety first, which is why i am asking here thanks as always guys.

i'm just crying about the vg in the pathy..... my wifes tired of my complaining, and I kinda think your guys' shoulders can handle my tears better I do have to throw in an 'edit'..... I did some research after jibber jabbin and the vg isn't THAT bad.... though I really think this engine was always meant to have a turbo. apparantly it was introduced to the masses with a turbo shortly after debuting, which is contrary to a few other engines nissan (or even other companies) have debuted...........like that damn ka24de some of the most successful versions of this engine were also in a few of their most popular vehicles. 200z, 300zx for instance. I still think that the swap would be brilliant. and the ka with 2.5" full exhaust and header sounds fantastic for a 4 banger. it does not have that ricer sound at all.

thanks, I will take some pics from camp when i get there tomorrow. I did however, hardwire the fan in. i used just one fan and ran it on it's high setting. put a 20amp fuse in line and a toggle switch. took it for a boot and let it idle for 20 minutes. stays at about 40% on the gauge. cheers the pics you posted helped me

ya i said I know there are some weight differences. I sold my 240sx with 260,000kms. i added nitrous at 120,000kms. my parents maxima has 285,000kms and is still their 'winter' car. i love nissans, I'm a huge huge fan. but I really think the vg is kind of like the poor son who came from the shallow end of the gene pool. his older brothers excelled at academics AND athletics. and the vg is the little emo brother listening to his earphones in the corner reading a graphic novel...... all frail and pasty.

I think this is a brilliant idea. I am not as mechanically gifted as some of you, but I've driven 2 brand new till death hard bodys and now on my second pathfinder. I had a 95 s14 240sx. with a ka24de when I started the bolt ons they were incredibly noticeable. i could chirp 3rd gear with 295/45/17 inch tires. in a 4banger... then i added a 75hp shot of nitrous and would destroy a bottle in a weekend. the car would just take a beating day in and day out. the vg is 0.6 litres bigger and has 2 more cylinders. the stock outputs are nearly identical. I personally feel the ka24de is a better engine. its more reliable can handle a lot of added power..... you even get 2 cams to play with.... i know there are some weight differences between the vehicles. but i never ever ever ever ever ever had to gear down going up a hill. like i do in my pathy. i think this would be a fantastic conversion. and if i had the resources i would probably try and slide an sr20det motor in there. light, powerful and solid. i personally feel the vg engine is one of the worst engines ever built by nissan..... considering they are responsible for giving us the sr20 and vq series, it makes you wonder who managed to convince top brass that the vg was amazing. this is purely opinion guys. good luck man, I would love to see the switch

tungsten I have a couple of questions and I'm hoping you can help me out.... my pathy already had an electric fan conversion on it. However, it appears it wasn't running a controller like yours. It was wired to the same 'box' as yours with the 12vdc unit under the hood. as well as what appears to be a tie in on the cooling system, might be a/c.? but my a/c does not work. I'm pretty sure it's missing components now my issues..... the previous fan only had a 2 pole switch. I put in an electric fan from a crown victoria. it was huge but didn't have the cfm needed to properly cool the engine. however, it worked on the wiring the previous owner did...... it was running at about 68% on the hot cold guage on my dash. and would creep to 80% at a standstill in traffic. which was too high. so I went to the junk yard again and grabbed a ford taurus fan. however, the station wagon taurus had 2 fans. even labelled 1 and 2. so i ripped it out. these fans have a 3 pole plug instead of the previous 2.... I combined the 2 red wires (similar to your pic) and connected it to the truck the way the old fans were running. i get no action from the fan. even with just one red wire the fan will not turn on. when i connect the fan directly to the battery with both red wires connected the fan fires up nicely. when i seperate the reds, there is a noticable difference in cfms between the two red wires. i labelled them high and low. now I'm faced with a decision. can i safely hardwire the fans with a fuse and toggle switch directly to my battery safely? say a switch for fan 1 and a switch for fan 2? have one wired for its high setting and one for low? or do i HAVE to go buy a fan controller? the alternator has been upgraded by the previous owner and appears to be one from a maxima.... i'm also not running a/c so is there even a reason for tying into the a/c system? i just don't want to destroy my battery. but I'm supposed to go on a decent adventure this weekend and I don't want to overheat my truck sorry if this has been asked already and for kind of hijacking here.

thanks, I have an immobilizer, its in a fairly secure parking spot and it's not the prettiest pathfinder in my area. hahah I avoided the coquihala and took the canyon when i went to visit the parents up north recently. just to avoid all those hills.

perpetual energy...... lot of interesting reading material out there, especially regarding Tesla.. and theres a lot of smart deep thinker blue collar types. in all my years i've definitely never noticed a correlation between post secondary education and intelligence. I would love to see the current rc technology applied to vehicles.....i'm not talking the forklift motors and laptop batteries these guys are doing now but programmable throttle curves through your pc. motor timing adjustments, temp settings etc. this company called Neu makes some of the most insanely powerful little motors. http://www.neumotors.com/Site/Dyno_data.html the efficiency with lipos and brushless motors is astonishing. in the low 90's % wise. and were what? mid 30's with a combustion engine?

I knew about the gl-4 from all the other posts.... they did not have redline mtl.. i just 'assumed' what he said was a replacement and it was safe to use. I changed it out this afternoon.... thanks again for saving me a grand.

ya start a new thread.... have i seen you on that 'doomsday preppers' show yet? hahahahahaha

should just put in a large brushless electric motor, a bank of lipo batteries and 2 chargers... lock the tranny in 4th gear. i guess trying to get the vg30 to make more power for cheap is like teaching a duck to speak portuguese.

It's funny you say that...... I have to chair the occupational health and safety committee at my work. It was always being brought up about earthquakes and what we would do....... which is very relevant on the west coast of BC. So I get the city of vancouver to come do a presentation on earthquake preparedness... their evacuation routes, and how they would handle the emergency. etc Let's just say I'm more scared now, than before the presentation. I spent the next 2 nights (while my wife was working) to search google earth and figure out how to get out of the city without crossing a bridge. I also registered to take my PAL. (gun license) and am buying a shotgun. 3 days without food and water and people become violent. If @!*% goes down, I need to be prepared. The camping supplies we have will allow us to 'survive' outside the city for a while. I guess till things settle down. next purchase is a cb radio. the lesson I got from the whole presentation, is that no one will be respsonsible for your or your family's personal safety. it's up to you.. not screaming doomsday here. but a little prep such as stored water and food will go a long way.

what about feeding pure oxygen?..... maybe setting up a system that uses th throttle position sensor that opens and closes a feed vale based on the throttle input... would you be prone to more detonation say compared to nitrous oxide? my zex nitrous system was like that, but only fired when the TPS was at full or 5v.... which i by passed and put a trigger on my gear shift...

interesting..... I knew that a cold air intake was just to eliminate restrictions and allow it to breath better. I was unaware that air was heated prior to combustion.... definetly capping the egr now... it would also be interesting to know the real world gains from plugging the intake preheat I noticed a power difference in my 240sx say on a july morning compared to one in october. so i though simply chilling the air would help...... also i know running nitrous cools the intake air as well..... I have decided this truck is going to be with me for a while. it has a recent 3.0l motor swap. just a stock replacement.... 2.5 exhaust from the cat back and thats about all in the power department..... it needs more. since the engine is fairly new i'm reluctant to swap it for a 3.3l as theres only 87k on it...

thanks. that was a quick $70

really? it's listed as a replacement at the vendors store

I have no intention of doing it I'm just curious IF it would work and if you tried how would you do it.

So guys, me and the wife just got back from a long long ass drive to see the parents. BC has a lot of mountains and hills to climb. it was 1600kms each way... gearing down to maintain speed on a few hills was bothering me, as well as having 'perfect timing' to take advantage of passing lanes. I knew what I was getting and I'm happy with this truck even though it seriously needs more power. and this random, very random post is about generating more power..... I'm not tech elite, but I understand the principals of the combustion engine. (raced nitro and electric rc's for many years) I know cold air burns better than warm or hot air. You can even feel it on a brisk autumn morning when your truck has all this extra power. now this is just for @!*%s and giggles. but has anyone thought or tried to use the a/c system to provide air for cumbustion to the engine? since the air is filtered already, could it be injected behind the MAF or would that throw off the ratio the computer is reading? or could it be injected before the maf? what type of issues do you forsee? i'm just wondering if this in theory would work. having the cold air would help tremdously during these summer days..... i ran nitrous in my s14 240sx with a ka24de. for 2 years without issue or detonation. and i never had to gear down on hills with that car.... the hp and torque ratings are similar. however 2 less pistons in the ka24de and a ton more weight with the pathy... any thoughts?

I need to chime in here.... Me and the wife just got back from a road trip visiting the parents.... I had previously read that the manual tranny fluid was too low stock. I actually noticed excessive heat coming from my tranny while climbing the mountains of beautiful BC. especially having to gear down to 4th to stay at 110kms/hr. Soon as I got to my parents I dumped the oil that was in there and it came out like tar. I added 5.1L or 75w90 synthetic castrol gear oil..... holy moses what a difference. barely any heat now even gearing down on hills and if shifts smoother. thanks for the tip about the extra oil and filing it through the shift lever. you guys are legendary

well gentlemen, I sent the previous owner pics of the clamp..... and he remembered them. so he got his buddy to bring the pathfinder to his place, took the clamps off and called me. so I mounted them with stock hardware.... and ya i flipped em over cause I have a body lift. looks pretty decent and the wife can step in easier. thanks for the pic nunya. you rock.

more cushion for the pushin?