lint
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Posts posted by lint
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My plugs were supposed to be gapped correctly when I bought them, but they weren't.
The specs on the NGK page show that the plugs out of the box are gapped @ 0.035". This is at the upper threshold of wear tolerance. Gapping them to the lower threshold would mean that as the centre electrode wears away, the gap remains in tolerance. This is why one should ALWAYS gap new plugs.
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So, the manual says to use NGK BKR6EY. Are those the NGK plugs to use, or can he get a little more fancy?
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^ I'll have to try one of those then!
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May as well replace them if you're pulling them.
Yeah, but they're one year old NGKs & they've only got 25,000 km on 'em. Trying to save some $$$ & they don't really NEED replacing. So I'll just clean them up and they'll be as good as new.
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Noticed the fuel economy was getting a little bit worse lately, so adjusted the A/C belt, and checked a plug's gap. It came in @ 0.039
Looks like I'll be pulling and gapping all the plugs next day off.
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^ THAT looks tricky to use! I'd use one of those extension things with a magnet on it.
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Who looked anything up??
Well, I did look up the range of the M6 minor diameter, but here is a handy bit of knowledge: with metric internal threads, subtract the pitch from the major diameter and that is the correct minor diameter. M6x1. would equal 5mm or .197"...
B
Damn! That is sooo cool! I know I'm gonna use this...one day!
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Drain & Fill on the automagic. Had to re-evaluate my philosophy of "buying local" when my neighbourhood punter wanted 14 bucks a litre for tranny fluid
, so I went to Wally-world. There, I got 5 litres of Valvoline Maxlife ATF for 21 dollars. -
Which side of the engine are you extracting the broken stud out of?
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Bando. Quality & I can get them through my online supplier for a great price.
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^^...gee...& I only did a lousy coolant change...
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Addressed the slop in the steering box. Made a mark of where it was originally, then tightened it 1/8th of a turn and made a mark. We'll see how that works. I figure I'll need to go another 1/8th, but when it comes to steering boxes. you gotta go slow and gently with the adjustments.
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I did my sway bar bushings and end links, and it came with some lube in a little tube. Not sure if all Energy Suspension bushings come this way but mine did.
Mine didn't.
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Borrowed a friend's impact gun to remove some stubborn bolts and installed new Energy Suspension poly bushings & compression rod on the passenger side. Next job to tackle is to lessen the amount of free play in the steering box. It seems like I'm on a freaking quest to get this thing to handle better!
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4 bucks!?!?
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Tackled the exhaust manifold studs. Had to drill out 2 on the drivers side (thanks P.O. for replacing the passenger side!) and replaced them with the upgraded studs. The job went perfectly! Thought about replacing the others while I was there, but a storm was rolling in and I had a thirst for beer. Buttoned everything up and ran it for a while watching the penetrating oil burn off in a haze. Ready for work tomorrow!
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There are Left and Right Hooks!?!?! I've been running two of the same with one upside down the whole time so they both hook outward. But one points slightly down because of the offset.
Like MY1PATH, I also rock double hooks with one pointing slightly down. I've been meaning to heat it up with a torch, put a jack under it and make the angle the same as the other one.
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Removed driver's side exhaust manifold heat shield and sprayed down the little nuts hiding underneath.
Bought an arsenal of tools: drill bits, swivel sockets, e-z outs, right angle drill, magnet, mirror & general sundries. Gonna tackle the dreaded broken exhaust manifold studs tomorrow am - a job I've been putting off for over a year!
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What I DIDN'T do on my Pathfinder today was be able to remove the passenger strut rod bolts to the LCA. Those F'ers are well on there tight! I need more heat & a bigger impact gun.
So I guess you could say, I gave up on my Pathfinder today
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awesome! Works for me!
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Yep, that's true! I always say "buy quality parts and quality tools and do the job yourself but if you cheap out on either parts or tools, you're just gonna have to do the job again".
I'm back on the road & I'm safe inside.
time for a couple of these!!
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I would recommend strongly replacing the rods, collars and washers:
54470-31G00 ROD TENSION $31.95 EACH QTY NEEDED: 2
54477-T6000 WSHR TENSION $3.78 EACH QTY NEEDED: 4
54479-50W0A COLLAR, TENSION $3.95 EACH QTY NEEDED: 2
...and then I get home and read this ^^ and Alkorahil could have saved me more but really, I need this on the road NOW & I can't afford to wait on shipping. Good info, & yes, I am replacing everything....
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My dealer (Vancouver BC) had them in stock for $60.
Yeah, so I call my dealer at 7am & he tells me he has 2 instock & they are 68 bucks each. So I say to him "Vancouver dealers have them for about 60 but that's ok I'm in a bit of a jam". Off I go to pick one up & when I get there he has adjusted the price to 59 and change. Nice! Sewebster just saved me 9 bucks!!!
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Copy that! I'm calling in the am...that's not a bad price I suppose.
at least mine aren't as bad as these!! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22748&st=0
What did you do to your Pathfinder today?
in The Garage
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New tailgate struts! The original units can't keep it up in this cool weather. Think that the Pathy is about ready for winter and very minimal maintenance for next 6 months.