lint
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Posts posted by lint
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x2 on the welcome!
x2 on the relays....a huge improvement!
Have fun w/ your new ride.
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Glad everyone's safe.
How many miles were on the tire?
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Greased my driveshaft.
Is there any downside to greasing it this often? I'm trying to get rid of a tube of grease.You'll go blind.
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(Yesterday actually) Changed out the O2 sensor just before getting 5" of snow. Going out on the logging roads today to get some more firewood.
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my insurance has NEVER increased because of a windshield claim. i know this for a fact... i still have maximum discount and my rates have never changed.
x2
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Found an large, empty, and freshly iced parking lot....
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lint, on 31 December 2011 - 12:52 PM, said:
... and people wonder why their drain plugs are rounded off
The sudden shock affect has always worked for me. Its the same thing as hitting a breaker bar with a hammer.
Actually, I use that method of shocking a stuck fastener loose quite regularly. It was his technique of "One foot holds the rachet/ extion in the plug and the other boots it" that I commented on. This along with the fact that one shouldn't shock load a ratchet due to potential damage to the ratcheting mechanism (instead use a breaker bar), and the fact that the 1/2" drive isn't the proper tool of the job because of it's loose fit in the drain plug; instead one should use the specific drain plug adapter that someone linked to in an earlier post led me to scratch me 'ead. Guess you didn't get that?
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One foot holds the rachet/ extion in the plug and the other boots it.
... and people wonder why their drain plugs are rounded off -
I've seen them at my local Harbor Frieght, of course mine was so rounded off it wasnt gonna do me much good.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-drain-plug-socket-set-94961.html
FYI, ours is 13mm. If you do the conversion, you see that 13MM is just over a 1/2 inch, which is why the 1/2 breaker/ratchet fits, but not as snugly as it can.
Yeah, that's basically what I got. That's a good price!
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There is actually a proper tool to use for the drain plugs, it just happens the most popular method is the 1/2 ratchet. Mine was rounded off when I got it, so I took it to a transmission shop. He said it was the hardest one he ever had to remove.
Yeah, when I did mine, I started off with a 1/2" breaker bar, but when it started to round off the drain plug I went & spent some $$ on the proper drain plug extension (they fit tighter and have nice crisp edges). It cost me some 'cause I could only buy it in a set of weird ass drain plug tools, but I bought it anyway knowing that I would be able to remove any drain plug that comes my way for the rest of my life.
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Fill it with oil, drive and forget about it for now. Deal with it during your next oil change. After all, plastic is a petroleum product. That plastic cap won't clog anything once it gets all mushed up by the gears.
That's what I'd do.
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UPSIDE DOWN?!?!?! watttttt?
Yep! Well, one was on its' side, but all the others were on their roofs. No BS!!
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Drove it through the mountain highway passes last night. Saw 7 (yes seven!) other cars / trucks upside down on a particularly bad 50 mile stretch after they wiped out on the slick roads. We got through it fine, then my wife said "I love this truck".
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Better ... since I cleaned my MAF
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Mine leaked a lot of oil from the oil pressure sending unit (below where the oil filter is located). As it turned out, it was loose. I used a 1 1/16" IIRC deep socket to tighten it back up. Sorted. No leak since!
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Cleaned the MAF sensor, but it really didn't need it.
Checked the dizzy & rotor. They checked out good.
Replaced a fog light bulb.
Wanted to do more, but she's running sweet & my "to do" list has been all checked off, so I drove to the car wash & cleaned her up.
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LED's
in The Garage
The 1157 is a dual filament bulb for running and brake lights, while the 1156 is a single filament bulb. They look very similar but are not interchangeable. A common mistake is to put an 1156 into a socket for an 1157 bulb.
The 1157 bulb is keyed so it will only go into the socket one way. Note that one lock tab on the 1157 is higher than the other. This prevents it from going in wrong.
Also note that the lock tabs on the 1156 are the same height so it will not go into an 1157 socket.
Sometimes, one of the two prongs on the bottom of the bulb is too low. You could bend the tab inside the light socket to make a better connection, or you could solder a blob onto the bottom of the bulb to make the connection better.
Hope this helps?
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mmm, too spendy. Mine (95 SE, fully loaded, good tires, 108,000 miles was $2200 as a private sale). Needed a major tune-up, fluids, brakes, rotors, shocks, exhaust & bushings. Rides great now after 1500 in parts and I did all that work myself. UNLESS, like others have said, it is minty and all the major tune up stuff is fresh, you gotta beat down the price.
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What the hell? I don't have those bump stops on my '95. As I'm second owner, the PO must have removed them....but he was an old dude and never wheeled it or anything. I don't have a BL or SL...are they really important?? Do they just bolt in/ on?
Edit...I just followed this thread...
Maybe PM Shasdakota, looks like he just put 9.9109s on his rig: http://npora.ipbhost...c=29263&st=1200
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Easy there. Like he said, this is a work in progress and this is the preliminary step. I'd like to see the process through completion.
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'nother oil & filter change. Since I seem to do this job every 10 weeks, I think that I'll stop spamming this thread 'till I actually do something newsworthy!
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Mine leaked from exactly the same place last year. I thought that that was a spot weld for something inside the tank? At any rate, I used a "gas-tank repair" which is like a 2 part epoxy but in a solid putty-like stick. Take the stick, knead it up in your hands and apply the putty to the leaky spot. Like I said, that was over a year ago & I haven't had a problem with it since.
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Put on some fancy winter wipers & installed new front brake pads in 70 minutes.
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Do DRLs specifically refer to the headlights or can you simply add some other running lights (like a set of cheapo fogs) that turn on when you turn the ignition? I don't think that the DRLs that I've seen actuate the rear lights.
Drivers side high beam inop.
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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Same thing happened to my '95 SE Automatic (No hi beam / driver's side).
Initially, I cut the driver's side headlight pigtail Ground and made a new ground to the frame. This solved the problem, however it had a really weird glitch....
If the truck was started with the E-brake on, the diver's headlight wouldn't go on UNTIL I released the e-brake.
After a month of that, I just relayed the lights, with the harness plugging into the passenger pigtail. Perfect result!