Daves94XE

i'm fixing to get new shocks for when i find some control arms and do my lift. my question is which shocks are you guys running and Y?looking at the differences in gas charged or oil charged hydraulic? just curious what you guys are running, I'm doing a 3" susp lift.

Hey guys i changed my speedo gear this morning and thought it might make a good how to. My pathy is a 94 XE 4wd auto. I changed from 235/75r15's to 31x10.50r15's so my speedo is bout 5 or so off.I called Rob out at factorynissanparts.com and got what we thought was the right gear(shoulda checked 1st ) but it ended up being too small, after taking mine out it was the factory 20 tooth gear so I think I should have got the 19 tooth, or and an adjustable speed sensor. But anyway the install would be the same for any gear. So I hope this helps someone else out. I didn't have to jack mine up so i just slid under it. this is where it started you can see the speedsensor location on the tailshaft of the t-case.at the very rear of the tail housing you will need a 10 mm socket/wrench a hammer and a long punch, a small flat blade screwdriver or a pair of snap ring pliers with the small tips. you carefully take out the 10 mm bolt tht holds the sensor in and use the punch hammer to turn the mounting tab to break it loose. once you turn the tab up past the mounting block you can usethe punch to pop the sensor out. when you get the sensor out you will see this the snap ring is all that holds the gear on so carefully pop it off without bending it and the gear slides off. it has a flat spot so you can't put it on wrong. just make sure you put it on the way it came off. snap the snap ring back on and slide the sensor back in. you may have to wiggle it around to get the gears to mesh together but do not force them. you can slide it all the way in with your hand only! then just snug the bolt up and check your fluid level. if you do this while it is cold and has not been driven you will lose less fluid than of you drive it and then try to change. Hope this helps. Dave

OK so i got my new 18 tooth speedo gear for my 94 today from fedex.. THANKS ROB! my question is the gear is glued onto the sensor right? what kinda of glue did you use and will i have to have my speedo recalibrated from nissan? thanks guys. 94 xe auto 4.6's on 31's

i see this all the time. if you had a headgasket leaking or an intake gasket leaking you would def be missing coolant. when a warm engine is shut off and cools down (especially in winter conditions) the cooling oil attracks moisture. which causes the milky white goop on the bottom of the filler cap/tube. you need to let it get to operating temp so it will get the oil hot enought to burn off the moisture. atleast every other trip or so. IF you have a headgasket leaking or an intake gasket leaking into the oil it will look like that on your dipstick and the oil will be milky colored. your oil looks pretty normal ( alittle dirty like it hasnt been changed regularly) but it is ok.if you are using oil, i would add a quart of lucas to your oil change. and just run your regular oil. wipe as much out as you can get to, and put fresh oil in. get it to operating temp fairly often and you should be fine. If you want to clean your engine out alittle and its not gummed up, where you can see into the filler cap. you can take 1 gallon of diesel fuel or kerosene, drain the oil out until it quits dripping then pour the whole gallon of diesel in. let it sit there and run until it is at normal operating temp, then drain it out and put a new filter and oil back in it. diesel and kerosene are both oils and will be fine to run in the engine. just don't drive it down the road or turn it really hard. fuel oils are like using a very light weight oil and will not hurt anything if run for a short time.and both are excellent cleaners.

Im jealous you guys got right hand drive

Something else to check. pull dash pocket out and take the ac/heater box clips off and look inside the condensor case to make sure its not stopped up with leaves and stuff. my ac was bearly blowing cold air and after it started running water in the floor i pulled it apart and sure enough it was almost completly plugged up with leaves and pine needles.also i don't know if your has one or not but if the engine temp gets up to normal but you still have no heat, look at the heater hoses and see if it has a water shut off valve in the lines. this valve shuts the hot water off to the heater core when the ac is run in the summer. either the valve could be stuck or the wire/cable broken.even if yours doesn't have ac it should still have one. if you pull the box apart and it's not plugged up pull the hoses off the heater core and use a garden hose to flush it out. don't have to turn the hose wide open but enough so you get pressure out the other line.

ok how bout our summer humidity. we will be glad to let u have it!

u can have our rain, if that makes u feel better!

i got a question.... Whats this "snow" stuff you guys are talking about? around here we get rain and it MIGHT freeze.

either one, my laptop has been outta comission, so i use the wii as a web browser. so if it double post dont blame me lol

ok guys here was my problem. above half a tank it would run good,below half it ran like it was full of water.1st i pulled the fuel filter off, was clear and could blow through it ez. 2nd i pulled the access door off the fuel pump and noticed the lines rotted into, THESE are ez to change without dropping the tank. changed all 4 lines 1/4 fuel line for the return and supply lines.these were split and leaking.. so check them often! Drove it, was alittle better came back home pulled the pump out.. found the strainer was full and was pulling fuel only from the top vent hose. pulled the screen off check all the wires and hoses and clean or replace the strainer with a new one or use carb cleaner. put it back together and runs like a new one. SO when u change the fuel filter check the rubber lines at the pump, and if it still does it clean the strainer Dave

keep a check on your oil level and make sure your oil isn't dissapearing, if its not.it could possibly be unburnt diesel.a diesel engine will smoke when cold and as the turbo and engine get hot it usually goes away. if your oil is dissapearing it could be a a number of things. low oil could have wore the rings, or a valve guide is worn letting it leak into the engine.if i am not mistaken it takes around 600 degrees of heat/pressure to make diesel combust. so until the engine is warm it will push unused fuel out through the exhaust. all diesel fuel is, is oil

if u have access to a voltmeter here are the factory specs for the temp sensors... eng temp volts resist. ohm 20c/68f 3.5v 2.1-2.9k 50c/122f 2.2 v .068-1.00k 90c/194f .9 v .236-.260k

not really, if u are running 70 mph. and you run 3200 rpms, then u go up in size say from a 29” tall tire to a 31” tall tire your rpms drop to 2600, once you are moving already u arent using as much fuel as with a smaller tire turning higher rpms.it takes alittle more gas to get rolling with the bigger tires,but once u get moving and stay at a constant speed.it uses less cause the engine doesnt turn as hard. if i had the 4.30 gearset it would def be worse mpg than the 4.60 i have now.cause the engine would have to work harder to stay at 70 mph

i can tell by driving from my house to my gf house everyday (22 miles one way,all interstate)i am getting better mileage. the motor dropped almost 500 rpm and she followed me so i know how much my speedo is off.

ok ive put about 400 miles on them since i put them on.THE GOOD they ride well,the stick to the road in rain very well. alittle hydroplaining in deep standing water. and with 30 psi still quiet and with the 31's my fuel mileage went up.. on rocky trails they are awesome but i have yet to take it fourwheeling (just forest service roads) but plan to this fri.The BAD picks rocks up like crazy, so if you get them warn your wife/gf, anyone u like ,not to get anywhere close to you after you been down a gravel driveway! lol. so far very happy with them.my 94 has lsd and going up some banks and just playing didn't need 4wd at all. does anybody know if a dealer can reset my speedo since it is electronic? mine seems to be about 5 mph off. doing the whole 60 sec test from mile marker to mile marker.runs 55 secs running 60 mph

now i just need my lift winch bumper and roof rack lol

had them all mounted today and they are pretty quiet,it actually runs alot better. seems like it shifts like it should and doesnt take as long to down shift and it doesnt turn as hard as it did with the 235's. anybody run into this before?mine has the 4.6 gears from the factory

i work in the walmart tle and i had a buddy mount one so i could see if i had any clearance issues. it had 35 psi in it. on the 15x6's it clears every where.but im afraid it might wear the centers out prematurely,i may put the letters inside. anyone know what nissan recomended air pressure was on the factory option trucks with 31s

sweet i'll have to try it. i need to get it fixed soon, its kinda dangerous cuase if something happens the pass. cant get out.thanks

i finally got some new shoes for the pathy today 31x10.50 goodyear wrangler authorities. 133 each at the wally world.looking for 15x7 or 8's but with the 6's no rubbing anywhere

i have a problem and it is really ticking me off. my 94 pathy has power door locks and windows. ok i can lock the doors with the power button on the door and then unlock them with the button and all the doors unock like there suposed to. i can push down on the lock rod at the top of the door and as soon as i unlock it with the switch the passenger can't get out. everytime i unlock the door as soon as they pull the latch the freakin door locks back. they can manually pull the lock rod and it locks back everytime. i finally have to unlock the door with the key fob. is there anyway to fix this or am i SOL?

i have a problem and it is really ticking me off. my 94 pathy has power door locks and windows. ok i can lock the doors with the power button on the door and then unlock them with the button and all the doors unock like there suposed to. i can push down on the lock rod at the top of the door and as soon as i unlock it with the switch the passenger can't get out. everytime i unlock the door as soon as they pull the latch the freakin door locks back. they can manually pull the lock rod and it locks back everytime. i finally have to unlock the door with the key fob. is there anyway to fix this or am i SOL?

you need to take it to someone with a ac machine and drain the system properly.

y did you change the distributor if the code was for a cam/crank position sensor? you try replacing the cam sensor?