porsche4786

Okay, I just checked the spark again, and it's definitely yellow out of the coil wire against the engine. And the rotor does turn in the distributor. Edit: Got a new coil, still yellow spark.

No firing at all, just turning.

I'm going to check the spark color again...it has an inline coolant heater, but no block heater. To start with starting fluid with fuel injection do you just spray it into the air box? Also going to make sure the rotor is turning on the distributor....

My 1990 pathfinder SE left me stranded after work...at work. Everything has been fine, no problems with starting it. Until I got off work... it turns over, has spark at the coil, and at the #1 spark plug wire (didn't check all of them, nor did I pull the plugs (which are pretty new) because it's 20 something outside, dark and I was freezing after an hour of screwing around with it. AFter messing with it, gas was coming out of the exhaust under the engine, so we've got spark, and gas, but not starting. Ideas? EDIT: The spark I got was a yellow color, not blue. In my past experiences it's been a blue color. The guy at napa (i called to see if they had a coil in stock) said that yellow should be ok...

I run Hawk HPS pads on my RX-7 with slotted rotors and braided lines, they are fantastic. And the 4 piston front calipers sure help. I used the EBC "green stuff" before the Hawk pads. The EBC work great too. Glad I found this post today. I've been getting a squeaking noise from the front drivers side and I think it's either rotors or calipers causing this (or both). I got the Hawk HPS on clearance for like $13 or something crazy for the pathfinder and they have been sitting in the back of the truck for about 8 months (front disc only). I think I paid something like $120 for the rx-7 for all 8 pads, so I think I got a great deal for the pathfinder pads. By the way, just checked ebay, and there is a set of front HPS for $13 free shipping.

Love it when they have 3 names....people look at you like you are an idiot. Thanks for the help!

Where do you get the compression rod bushings? I've looked at rock auto, napa, autozone, O'Reilly, nobody seems to have them.....

Is it ok to replace the center link without having an alignment done? I just had mine aligned and hate spending money on alignments unless I do a bunch of things all at once. I plan on replacing almost all of my bushings on the front steering system and probably some of the suspension bushings and ball joints next summer, then getting alignment done. But I'd really like to replace all the parts I can that don't require an alignment right away.

Probably also depends on the wheels used, with the wheels I got (using the 31x10.5x15) I had to do some lifting of the front, trimming of the front spoiler/lip under the bumper, and remove front mud flaps.

My other car is an 89 RX-7 non turbo. Bought it with 45k miles all stock (not stock anymore), I'm the second owner. Also have an 06 Suzuki GSXR 600, I have since removed the rear fender.

I have an SE and I don't have hardly any options at all. It almost seems like it should be an XE! It came with the chromed wheels with 235's on it. Internal tire carrier, auto climate control, no lsd that I know of, no fender flares, drum rear brakes, no sunroof. It's pretty basic except for the auto climate control, rear wiper with squirter, non tinted windows, it does have power mirrors, power seats, and power windows, cloth seats, A/C (which is disconnected).

I replaced the idler arm and wheel bearings now. I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 and turned it a little side to side and the slop that used to be in the idler is gone. And on the drivers side, I looked at the steering wheel while doing this, and the steering wheel moved with the smallest movements. So I think the pitman arm is fine. I noticed that there are attachment points for a steering damper, which models came with the steering damper mounted?

How much movement between your pitman arm and your tie rod/relay rod are you supposed to have? I can barely see it move before the tie rod/relay rod move, the idler arm definitely needs replacement (and it's hanging there right now waiting for the puller in the morning). I'll try to make a video in the morning...

If it's just the bushing in the idler arm then that is an easy fix. Or can just replace the whole arm. There's no way I'll let them do the work for me. I've only let one place work on any of my cars, and it was my rx7, i got it back with broken bolts, missing parts, and reused gaskets (which blew). And that was from a recommended shop from a very reputable rotary engine re-builder (pineapple racing). I only take my stuff in for work that I don't have the expensive tools for. But this would make sense of why les schwab couldn't get my alignment correct (even thought they said they did).

I just got the off brand "unique" from americas tire co, the wheels are made in the USA, so I figured what the heck. I got hankook atm tires. Everything was $832 installed, and I get to pick up a set of black lug nuts tomorrow at no charge. Well then, I'll have to give it a shot and see. If they do fit then I'll get a spare. I went to firestone complete auto care to get an alignment tonight, (i don't trust les schwab anymore, they couldn't get my alignment correct twice in a row, and they didn't say anything was bent or broken or worn out) after an hour and a half they said that my pitman arm and idler arm were shot. Not sure why it took them soo long to tell me that. Then I call napa to find the parts and the guy said it was weird for me to have to replace them both. He said one of them ( can't remember if he said idler or pitman) was uncommon to replace unless it was broken or stretched. And recommends I go to a different alignment shop to get an honest opinion. So as of now, I guess I'll have to make an appt tomorrow and try to get in. Time to drive the RX-7 in the rain till I get this taken care of.

Yeah, tire is inside, which is nice to not have the carrier when opening and closing the rear a lot, but takes a heck of a lot of room! And a 31'' spare won't fit inside. I'd put a spare on a rack on top but then it wouldn't fit thru my garage door. I really need to paint those drum housings...gross.

I got the wheels and tires installed yesterday, it rubbed on the front plastic lip and the mud flap bracket and slightly on the mudflap itself when turned. I raised the front up last night. And trimmed the lip/removed the mud flaps in the front this morning. It's kinda close to the ends of the fender when turned just before lock in both directions, but I don't think it will hit. Now I need to get springs for the rear. Will get an alignment very soon. I will also need to get chains for the mountain, but it looks like they will have to go on the rear. The shop that did the wheel/tire install was out of black lug nuts so they put chromed ones on and said they would have a box of them for me today to pickup. Not sure which to use. But I'll need a locking nut set too I think.

I posted a week ago about wheel/tires sizes. From what I understand, the wheels you have, 15x6, are too skinny to fit 31x10.5 on. The other wheels nissan offered were wider. I ordered some black steel wheels and hankook atm tires last week and should have them this week, after I get them installed I'm going to adjust the torsion bars and get an alignment done, then we'll see how it looks. I may get new rear springs and adjust the front higher again. Will post pictures after I get the wheels on. Most tires stores can get the stock nissan wheels for you if you'd rather save a few dollars, but literally, just a few dollars.

I know nissans will last forever, but this one is having a coolant loss problem. Nothing really points to a blown head gasket, and I've found a few small coolant leaks since I got the truck and fixed them. My guess is that it's got a very small crack in the block, a very small crack. Because if I keep the engine nice and warm (like driving a long distance on the highway) it doesn't loose much/if any of any coolant. But driving around town stop and go quick errands and to work when you turn it off and on it will lose a lot more. I'd say I have to fill the overflow at least once a week. I've tried almost everything to find the leak and can't, so it must be something to do with the head. Unfortunately I've had this problem ever since I got the truck about 8 or 9 thousand miles ago. And it appears to have been abused. There was soo much sludge in the valve covers it was disgusting. No external coolant leaks that I can find, it's parked in a garage and nothing on the floor. The last leak was a pin hole in a small hose at the rear left of the engine, when water came out of it the water would evaporate really fast because it's soo hot, so that leak was hard to find. I did run a cleaner thru my system last weekend and hooked a garden hose up to it and gave it a good flushing. So the coolant loss soo far this week could be from air, we'll see.

Ok...just went to get a price on tires/wheels. They can do $930 for 31x10.50x15 hankook ATM with the 297 wheels (see below) in 15x7''. Or $810 with the stock pathfinder lego wheels, they would have to order either of the wheels.

Thanks for the reply. I originally bought this truck for a daily driver, on the super cheap type vehicle. The rx-7 didn't really work well for hauling stuff and going shooting/skiing. I put new monroe shocks on it just a few months ago and didn't really want to spend a lot on this truck since it's not in the greatest condition, I will probably be getting a better one after this one dies (if it does). But at least the wheels come off easily and could go onto another pathfinder in the future. Would those jeg wheels with 31's rub with the stock height? I know some came with 31's stock and they had different wheels. I'll need tires pretty soon, the lift might have to wait.

So it's about time for some new tires for my 1990 pathfinder. And I was wanting to get some bigger tires. Currently it has 235/75/15. It has the chrome stock wheels, which I think are 5.5-6''. I was wondering if anybody knows the biggest tire that could fit on those. Or if I should just get some new wheels (i like the look of the american racing 767 wheels) and 31x10.5 tires. The truck is completely stock right now. I don't really do much off roading, but do go skiing often, possibly every weekend, and go into the forest roads to go shooting and it can get muddy/snowy. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I recently did my timing belt/water pump/ thermostat. And ever since that the engine temp gauge seems to be lower than normal, just above the low line, barely. Sometimes will go maybe a 1/8th of an inch above the line, and other times like after climbing a hill it will go up to almost half/half way. But not every time I climb a hill (the same hill). Still loosing coolant every couple days. And yesterday I filled it up when it was cold. Drove to work (about 12 miles one way) and home and the level was down to low already. This morning I filled it up and drove to work and since it's warm now the overflow level is a quarter inch above the high line, which will go down after it cools, I'm guessing to the high line or slightly below. So far the only leaks I've found, was the radiator, which I replaced. And then a leak on the thermostat hose that goes to the radiator. Which I also replaced. No drips on the garage floor. Did the engine block test, with no change in liquid color, I pressure tested the system yesterday (again) and it's holding pressure better than it was before I did the water pump replacement. I'm not sure where the coolant is going, but I'm thinking that the thermostat may possibly be bad/not working properly. But that wouldn't cause me to loose coolant that I know of.

Actually, it doesn't get much above the cold mark after driving for 15 minutes. But will get warmer when going over hills. Then will drop back down. I checked the reservoir level this morning and it's still leaking somewhere, down to half in there, was full a night or two ago (when cold). I found this service bulletin thing...but I don't know where this plug is they are talking about....The only thing I could find in the FSM so far is an air relief plug, where ever that is http://www.canadiandriver.com/forum/index.php?topic=56056.0 "- (95087) VG30E engine may experience a coolant leak due to threaded blind plugs * TSB was probably meant to reduce the number of cylinder head gasket replacements - the real fix involved removing all the belts and belt covers and checking the blind plug; if a leak is detected, apply Teflon tape and re-torque."

I've taken mine to les schwab twice now in the past month. They can't seem to get it right, I'll have to get under and have a look to see if there are some bad bushings or something.