porsche4786

Yeah, tire is inside, which is nice to not have the carrier when opening and closing the rear a lot, but takes a heck of a lot of room! And a 31'' spare won't fit inside. I'd put a spare on a rack on top but then it wouldn't fit thru my garage door. I really need to paint those drum housings...gross.

I got the wheels and tires installed yesterday, it rubbed on the front plastic lip and the mud flap bracket and slightly on the mudflap itself when turned. I raised the front up last night. And trimmed the lip/removed the mud flaps in the front this morning. It's kinda close to the ends of the fender when turned just before lock in both directions, but I don't think it will hit. Now I need to get springs for the rear. Will get an alignment very soon. I will also need to get chains for the mountain, but it looks like they will have to go on the rear. The shop that did the wheel/tire install was out of black lug nuts so they put chromed ones on and said they would have a box of them for me today to pickup. Not sure which to use. But I'll need a locking nut set too I think.

I posted a week ago about wheel/tires sizes. From what I understand, the wheels you have, 15x6, are too skinny to fit 31x10.5 on. The other wheels nissan offered were wider. I ordered some black steel wheels and hankook atm tires last week and should have them this week, after I get them installed I'm going to adjust the torsion bars and get an alignment done, then we'll see how it looks. I may get new rear springs and adjust the front higher again. Will post pictures after I get the wheels on. Most tires stores can get the stock nissan wheels for you if you'd rather save a few dollars, but literally, just a few dollars.

I know nissans will last forever, but this one is having a coolant loss problem. Nothing really points to a blown head gasket, and I've found a few small coolant leaks since I got the truck and fixed them. My guess is that it's got a very small crack in the block, a very small crack. Because if I keep the engine nice and warm (like driving a long distance on the highway) it doesn't loose much/if any of any coolant. But driving around town stop and go quick errands and to work when you turn it off and on it will lose a lot more. I'd say I have to fill the overflow at least once a week. I've tried almost everything to find the leak and can't, so it must be something to do with the head. Unfortunately I've had this problem ever since I got the truck about 8 or 9 thousand miles ago. And it appears to have been abused. There was soo much sludge in the valve covers it was disgusting. No external coolant leaks that I can find, it's parked in a garage and nothing on the floor. The last leak was a pin hole in a small hose at the rear left of the engine, when water came out of it the water would evaporate really fast because it's soo hot, so that leak was hard to find. I did run a cleaner thru my system last weekend and hooked a garden hose up to it and gave it a good flushing. So the coolant loss soo far this week could be from air, we'll see.

Ok...just went to get a price on tires/wheels. They can do $930 for 31x10.50x15 hankook ATM with the 297 wheels (see below) in 15x7''. Or $810 with the stock pathfinder lego wheels, they would have to order either of the wheels.

Thanks for the reply. I originally bought this truck for a daily driver, on the super cheap type vehicle. The rx-7 didn't really work well for hauling stuff and going shooting/skiing. I put new monroe shocks on it just a few months ago and didn't really want to spend a lot on this truck since it's not in the greatest condition, I will probably be getting a better one after this one dies (if it does). But at least the wheels come off easily and could go onto another pathfinder in the future. Would those jeg wheels with 31's rub with the stock height? I know some came with 31's stock and they had different wheels. I'll need tires pretty soon, the lift might have to wait.

So it's about time for some new tires for my 1990 pathfinder. And I was wanting to get some bigger tires. Currently it has 235/75/15. It has the chrome stock wheels, which I think are 5.5-6''. I was wondering if anybody knows the biggest tire that could fit on those. Or if I should just get some new wheels (i like the look of the american racing 767 wheels) and 31x10.5 tires. The truck is completely stock right now. I don't really do much off roading, but do go skiing often, possibly every weekend, and go into the forest roads to go shooting and it can get muddy/snowy. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I recently did my timing belt/water pump/ thermostat. And ever since that the engine temp gauge seems to be lower than normal, just above the low line, barely. Sometimes will go maybe a 1/8th of an inch above the line, and other times like after climbing a hill it will go up to almost half/half way. But not every time I climb a hill (the same hill). Still loosing coolant every couple days. And yesterday I filled it up when it was cold. Drove to work (about 12 miles one way) and home and the level was down to low already. This morning I filled it up and drove to work and since it's warm now the overflow level is a quarter inch above the high line, which will go down after it cools, I'm guessing to the high line or slightly below. So far the only leaks I've found, was the radiator, which I replaced. And then a leak on the thermostat hose that goes to the radiator. Which I also replaced. No drips on the garage floor. Did the engine block test, with no change in liquid color, I pressure tested the system yesterday (again) and it's holding pressure better than it was before I did the water pump replacement. I'm not sure where the coolant is going, but I'm thinking that the thermostat may possibly be bad/not working properly. But that wouldn't cause me to loose coolant that I know of.

Actually, it doesn't get much above the cold mark after driving for 15 minutes. But will get warmer when going over hills. Then will drop back down. I checked the reservoir level this morning and it's still leaking somewhere, down to half in there, was full a night or two ago (when cold). I found this service bulletin thing...but I don't know where this plug is they are talking about....The only thing I could find in the FSM so far is an air relief plug, where ever that is http://www.canadiandriver.com/forum/index.php?topic=56056.0 "- (95087) VG30E engine may experience a coolant leak due to threaded blind plugs * TSB was probably meant to reduce the number of cylinder head gasket replacements - the real fix involved removing all the belts and belt covers and checking the blind plug; if a leak is detected, apply Teflon tape and re-torque."

I've taken mine to les schwab twice now in the past month. They can't seem to get it right, I'll have to get under and have a look to see if there are some bad bushings or something.

AGREED!

Pretty much where it is right there. I had to mess with the timing for a while (didn't mark the distributor) and I had the radiator cap off while doing that. Hopefully it found it's way out. But I don't think that was the problem last time. May even be a tad less than that after 15 minutes.

Ok, water pump/timing belt/tensioner/crankshaft seal/ and thermostat are done. The engine temp gauge doesn't seem to go as far up as it used to. The picture is how far it goes while driving on pretty flat land. And it went a little higher when I was driving over the hill this morning. The red line is where it used to get up to, and the green is what it got up to today going over the hill.

I'm about done with the water pump job. But Fast Undercar sent me the wrong timing belt....so I didn't get to finish it last night. It was the belt for a newer pathfinder with rounded teeth, not squared. I got the coolant bypass hose on without removing the rear timing belt cover, I removed the distributor to get more access to the hose (still wasn't easy getting the hose on). I wasn't comfortable trying to get the camshaft pulleys off (afraid of spinning them). There was a decent amount of rust under the water pump, but no sign of coolant. Just oily, looks like possibly the main front seal, so I replaced it. Hopefully the rest of the job goes well and it fixes the problem.

The plugs look light gray-whiteish. I'm going to do the timing belt/water pump today along with the bypass hose. The timing belt needs to replaced, it's been about 60k miles as far as I can tell maybe a little more. Also...I didn't see any of the UV dye in the coolant anywhere. But this morning I was at my GF's house out in the country, and there was a little green in the puddle under the car. I shook the radiator drain hose and a couple drops came out of it. But I also had drained some coolant yesterday to put the dye in... 0 mins 13psi 2.5mins 12psi 5 mins 11.5psi 10mins 10.5-11psi 15mins 9.5psi 18mins 9psi 20mins 9psi 40mins 7-7.5psi

Ok, I just did a compression test and they all read very well, maybe off 5-10psi per cylinder. All above 150psi. I got a UV leak test kit, and will do that next...hopefully it shows up...

Does it ever stop steaming? Or is it always?

As far as I can tell it runs fine, sounds smooth, doesn't feel like it's got a loss of power. And no check engine light or anything. It's only got 146k miles. Which on a pathfinder I would consider low. Lets say you were getting coolant in a cylinder, wouldn't it feel like it's missing when you drive it?

Is it possible to have a head gasket leak and not getting exhaust in your coolant?

It could be that your right, that it's evaporating when hitting the block, so not showing any signs of anything. But I thought I'd see something, some kind of a clue if it was that. I think the compression test will tell me a lot. If they all come out to about the same, then it's probably not the head gasket...right? The only thing I don't have, and that I don't believe I can rent anywhere, is a leak down tester. Which shows how long it takes for the pressure to drop in a cylinder. You use compressed air, it would show if you have a bad or small leak in your cylinders. I don't know of any reputable shops as far as pistons engines. I've only taken my rx7 to a shop recommended by a highly reputable rotary engine rebuilder. And I got it back with many problems, broken bolts, etc. He's now out of business. So I have a hard time trusting anybody working on my vehicles.

I did the block test a week or two ago. With the blue fluid. It didn't change to yellow (or any other color). But I don't think that's showing you if it's 100% the head gasket or not.

I've had quite the bad luck as far as water pumps in the past with my rx-7, I've replaced it on average once a year for 6 years, and I don't over tighten my belts. So that's the first thing I usually look at. I pulled the A/C tensioner pulley bracket off so I could see more around the water pump and thermostat. It's bone dry as far as I can see around the thermostat, water pump, and the coolant bypass hose. But wouldn't that also leave a leak on the ground? I wish I knew about this problem when I took the valve covers off, because I would have just done the whole job. Instead of doing things over again. I planned on doing the timing belt this weekend, but now I put that off till I can figure out what this problem is. I guess I should have driven it for a while before jumping in and doing the valve covers right off the bat.

Thanks for the reply. No puddles on the ground. And I park it in my garage, so it would definitely be noticeable if it was leaking onto the ground. The steam that comes out is only when you start it up (cold or after it's been sitting for maybe 15 mins after driving it). Then once you drive for a mile or two, it stops. It may stop quicker if it's already warmed up. They make some products that are more for head gaskets. Some by Bars Leak, and another called steel seal. I pulled and replaced the spark plugs when I bought the thing and they were all the same looking, they all looked light gray or white. I pulled one of them yesterday and it looked like the old ones did for the most part. I got a compression tester and forgot to bring it to work with me, so I'll have to do that tonight. I was pretty tempted to try the head gasket repair stuff you pour into your system, but I'm not sure if it would clog any other passages. I've heard people talk both ways about the stuff. My grandpa used to rebuild (up to about 6 months ago) antique car engines and he said he used bars leak quiet a few times in the past (not with customers cars, with his own) and it worked without problems, but others say it clogged their radiator (which i just replaced) or their heater core.

I also have some kind of ticking noise from mine, I mostly notice it when I'm on a flat straight road very lightly on the throttle. And the engine also sounds a bit different once you get above like 3500rpm. I'm fairly new to piston engines, besides my GSXR(motorcycle). Which doesn't quite count I don't think. My other car is an RX-7, no pistons. So maybe it's normal.

I have been trying to get a little help/ideas from another forum and haven't had much luck in the past couple weeks. And starting to get frustrated with this pathfinder I just purchased about 700 miles ago. I hate getting lied to about problems...I'm going to post the other info I posted on the other forum and see what we can find out. I'm leaning towards a cracked block or head gasket. But others I have talked to don't think it's that. But they also have no ideas as to what. Feb 12th, 2010, 12:38 PM I recently bought a 1990 Pathfinder SE last Saturday morning. And am having trouble determining if it has a blown head gasket or what. I replaced the valve cover gaskets the same and following day (after I purchased it, took me a day and a half to do the job). Got it all back together, started it up, and I had a pinch in a coolant hose in the rear of the engine (coolant was spraying out). So i went and got a new hose, replaced it and all was fine. I topped off the coolant reservoir and radiator. A couple days later the coolant reservoir was near empty. So I refilled it at work. I went home after work, back to work the next day, from work I drove about 20 miles to a u pull it. Drove back home, about another 20 miles, then after I was home for a while, another 8 miles. Drove to work the next day, coolant reservoir was still full. I drove home, and back to work the next day and the reservoir was half full. I'm not sure where it's going. Maybe a bubble in the cooling system and it's filling it up. There is no coolant in the oil, oil in the coolant, and the coolant doesn't smell like exhaust. It does have steam come out of the tail pipe after start up. Even if the engine is warm during start up (but it hasn't been above about 45 degrees out). When the engine is cold it steams more than if it's already warmed up. But if you drive it, it stops steaming. I have smelt the exhaust, and it doesn't smell like coolant to me. But I have a pretty bad sense of smell. Any ideas? My main thought is that there were/are air bubbles in the cooling system, either from before I got the truck, or while I had it all apart/when it started up and was spraying coolant out from the hose that was pinched. Edit: There are also no leaks that I have seen. Nothing on the ground after it's been sitting. And it passed emissions the day I bought it. Edit #2: I got a block tester and it didn't show exhaust in the coolant. Feb 18th, 2010, 12:12 PM I looked at the radiator, and in the upper drivers side corner it has a very small leak. It's hidden under the fan shroud, and there is dried/corroded coolant on the fins. I got a new radiator and replaced it last night. Hopefully that was it! Only thing I don't like is the new radiator is plastic, the old one was brass. But I guess for $80, new, I can't complain too much...Just gotta get myself pumped up for doing my timing belt in a couple weeks... No coolant was hitting the ground or the skid plate. It was drying up before dripping off the radiator. Feb 24th, 2010, 08:50 AM Ok, It's been about a week since I replaced the radiator now. And I've added coolant to the overflow tank twice. And now it's half full when warm and closer to the low line when cold. How long does it take to get the air out of the system? Or do I have another leak somewhere...? I'm going to get a pressure tester tonight and see what kind of results I get. Feb 25th Added coolant yesterday at work and drove it home along with a few errands on the way home. I pressure tested it last night, and I am definitely losing pressure. I checked the oil (it has been about a week or so since I last checked it). And the dipstick had nothing on it. I got in the car and the engine was cold. And the coolant level on the full mark still. I went to fred meyer to get oil, poured in a quart in the parking lot and drove it home. The next morning (today) the coolant level was half full and the oil only half way up the dipstick. So I added another half quart. It's only been 700 miles since the oil was replaced. Coolant in the radiator and overflow are still nice and green. The valve covers have some seepage appearing, so I tightened the screws a little more. I replaced the valve cover gaskets a few weeks or so ago. Maybe I used the wrong permatex with the gasket. I should have probably used high temp permatex and not the regular. But no oil leaks that have appeared yet, and no coolant leaks that I can see. Getting frustrated. Half tempted to get a re manufactured engine. But that's a lot of work and money. 0 mins 13psi 2.5mins 12psi 5 mins 11.5psi 10mins 10.5-11psi 15mins 9.5psi 18mins 9psi 20mins 9psi 40mins 7-7.5psi Thank you for your help