porsche4786

You think I need to replace them again, then do wear in? Wish I would have seen that before I changed them. Pretty expensive things to buy.

No, I did not. Since it was driven for maybe 15 miles or more after installing the lifters and posting here (no mention of run-in in the FSM or Haynes manual). I figured it is way beyond too late to do that. Plus, it just sounds soo horrid at a plain idle. I didn't want to run it more than absolutely necessary. It sounds like it's running with no oil in it whatsoever. edit: after I was finished, started it, it ran at about 1500 rpm and I reved it up to 2000 for a couple minutes. till "warm" then idled down to 750rpm. I went inside for a minute. Came back out and it was at about 2000 rpm (something wrong with throttle cable). So I messed with that for a while trying to get it to idle normally, and get the timing on right. After that, I drove it.

They are brand new. I'm not a fan of using used internal engine parts. The rockers themselves looked to be fine, and the rocker arm shaft looked fine (didn't use a micrometer, should have). Almost looked like one side was slightly newer than the other. The cam did have a slight worn spot on the drivers side, which is the lifter on that side that was making the most noise before replacement. But now I'm having a hard time figuring which of the lifters (or whatever it is) is making the most noise. Maybe I need to replace the cams too...Always fun doing things twice ...Just had the timing belt off about 2 months ago...Too bad I didn't just do it all at once! The other thing I'm still not sure of is if it's getting enough oil to the rocker arms and lifters. Obviously that makes a huge difference. (I'm thinking as I'm typing here) It did sound very quiet when I first finished and started it up. Which means when it DID have oil, it was fine. So now I'm thinking it's not getting enough oil....

I changed the oil to valvoline max life 5w-30, still ticks like crazy. Even when cold. I was looking thru the oil filler hole and everything looks very clean, I'm not sure how much oil should be coating everything after it has sat for 10 mins, maybe I'll try and run it and look in there, I can see one lifter, thru the hole, and I suspect it's the one making most of the noise on that side. I could try and get some oil in there directly on it and see if it helps at all.

As I installed the rocker arms and rockers, I pushed on them after I tightened it down, and didn't notice any lifters collapse. That's what I was thinking, thinner oil when it's cold so it lubes ok, after that it's too thick. I figured I have some clogged/partially clogged oil passages (but I did clean out the oil passages on the rocker arm rods, and lifter plate thing, some of those were plugged). I bought some Valvoline max life 5w-30 last night. The only ZDDP additive I have been able to find locally (and have used in the past) is the blue bottle of STP. I wonder if I should run a little seafoam or other cleaner thru the oil system that might open up some oil passages. I have never used seafoam in the past. Just after I bought the rig about a year ago, I had oil can henry's replace the oil (I just didn't have time to do it, first time taking a car anywhere to have oil changed) and they also ran a cleaner thru the oil system, and after they did that is when I started noticing lifter tick. So I'm not sure if the guy I bought it from had put something in the oil to make it sound ok before he sold it to me, or if the cleaner had some effect on the lifters, or if the cleaner just knocked a bunch of junk loose and caused trouble.

So I replaced my lifters yesterday, and within the 30-45 minutes I ran it afterword, it sounded fine. Then I changed the oil with fresh castrol gtx high mileage 10w-40, and new filter. I drove it after that for about 20 minutes, and now it makes a bunch of noise again. I'm guessing that my oil passages are clogged. I did make sure all the passages I could see were clear (sprayed engine degreaser thru them), but they could be clogged within the head or oil pump. Other ideas? I did soak the lifters in 5w-20 for about 24 hours (upright) before installation. And lubbed up everything well as installing. (Probably why it sounded fine for the first 30-45 minutes). This engine did have a large amount of sludge in the valve covers (used putty knife to remove it) when I first replaced the valve cover gaskets the day after I bought it, about a year ago now. It was obviously abused and the guy flat out lied to me about it. "Oil changed every 3000 miles", yeah, bull... edit: When the engine startes cold, there is no ticking. Once it warms, it ticks.

How did you run the wiring to the engine bay from the roof?

FYI...your steering wheel is on the wrong side, might want to fix that while your in there!

I also think he's trying to upsell you. I went to an Americas Tire Co and bought 15'' black steel wheels for my pathy, and 31x10.50 Hankook Dynapro ATM tires. But I did have to crank up the front torsion bars and remove the front mudflaps for them to clear, haven't rubbed at all since. But I will say without the mudflaps in the front the truck gets messy fast! Forgot to add...I also had to cut a little off the front spoiler/lip thing that hangs from the front bumper. I guess it depends on which 31'' tires you get as to what modifications you might have to make.

This morning I was letting it idle while putting stuff back together inside, and when I was putting the white/clear cover on the plug that goes into the computer, I noticed the engine would backfire when I pushed on the wires, and then I pushed more on that same spot with little pressure and the engine died, I went to start it again, nothing, I pushed on the wires, tried to start again, and it started right up, then the rpm gauge died, then it would come back on when I wiggled the wires around. I tightened the plug a little more and it seemed to have stopped, I couldn't get it to do any of that stuff again. And no more codes. So I'm hoping everything is fine now. I might get a photo of the damage I did and post it later. See what you guys think. Thanks for all the help everybody! I really appreciate it!!!

Yeah, I was very surprised I didn't hear bad noises. They really make that timing cover close to the balancer....I knew I was putting the wrong screw in that hole, but I didn't expect anything like that. I didn't see any leaks after it warmed up and drove it around the block. I screwed the correct screw in and I think the timing cover will help support it temporarily for the next 50k miles. I didn't bring her home last night, so we'll see what happens with a longer drive. As I was driving home last night I realized that I did my compression check with the coil unplugged.....must be the cause for the code. I was doing some reading in the FSM also, and I found that the check light is supposed to come on when key is on, for bulb check. So my bulb is probably out....or somebody unplugged/broke it.

I got it to run! And I have 140/145psi in every cylinder, when engine is cold. I did do something bad though....apparently it matters which screw you put into the very bottom of the bottom timing cover (I used one with a rubber thing on it, and I had one screw that didn't have rubber on it, which came off the bottom). And the harmonic balancer rubs on it...and when I put the harmonic balancer on, it pushed the screw back, and cracked the aluminum behind the timing cover....so, I guess I'll maybe put some JB weld on it, it doesn't appear to have caused damage to the seal above, which I think is against the oil pan? Forgot to add, I'm getting a code 21

Funny thing about tires....When I was first looking for a pathfinder last year, this chick said the tires were brand new. I went and looked at the truck, the tires were bald, they were off road tires, and the sides still had rubber sticking out on them, but the rest of the tire was gone. I was like, so how new are these tires? Like 40,000 miles ago new? lol

A mechanic/automotive machine shop guy (who I've heard is pretty knowledgeable), think I should put it back together with a new belt and tensioner, see if it runs. Check compression and do a leak down test, he says that will tell me what valves are bent and other problems, and that he could replace valves and such (I'd be taking the heads off). I don't know what kinda money he's thinking, but I'm guessing somewhere around $500. Since I've put soo much time and money into this thing, I'd like to try and keep it....But thinking about another vehicle for a daily driver for the next month or however long it takes me. Then probably sell it when I'm done and feel confident in the pathfinder. Also found a nice lookin 79 Ford F150... http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2150470866.html

lol, I might just wait. But I have my doubts about this damn thing. I pulled the #3 plug and I can see the piston come up and touch a valve when I turn it by hand. (yes, it is painful to watch). Especially since I just put $900 worth of tires and wheels into it. Not to mention the hundreds of dollars in other parts. So I'm going to see how much an engine goes for. There isn't much on craigslist for sale right now, and I'd like to stick with the pathfinder so I can rob the things I just bought for this truck. Lots of them are auto's, and I just can't do that. Here's about the only things that's somewhat interesting... http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/2153343417.html

Somehow I missed your first line of response. Yeah, non, nada, zip. Needle didn't even budge. So I'm hoping it's all ok. But I don't have a chain wrench or anything to get a grip on the harmonic balancer to get the big bolt off on the crankshaft. So it will probably be tomorrow.... I'd say I'm pretty damn lucky to be able to get paid to work on my own truck all day, for the past week. lol

I checked for compression, I have none. Only checked cylinders 1, 3, and 2. I pulled the front apart and got the upper timing belt cover off, I can't get the camshaft timing marks to line up with the piston (thru spark plug hole) at TDC. I will pull off the main pulley and remove the lower cover after lunch. Belt looks fine....

Sorry for all the replies to myself, lol. Zero compression in cylinders 1,3, and 2. Didn't check the rest, but that was enough for me to guess timing belt splipped.

I'm just going back over everything on here...what exactly do you mean by reset the dizzy? This is very weird, because it sounds like it wants to start sooo bad, until you put the fuel pump fuse in, it just sounds like it gets flooded....or the timing is off. But if the timing was off, wouldn't a valve be open while it's trying to compress? I'm going to try and test compression this morning. I did try starter fluid a few times, and it won't run on that either. Also, I tried cranking it yesterday with the coil unplugged and the computer thew a code, but didn't give me a check engine light. I've tried unplugging other things to see if it would throw a code, and it wouldn't.

I found a little black wire that comes off of a little widget that screws onto the alternator. I'm not sure what it is, but the wire is not connected to it. Never mind, it's a condenser for the radio...

Ok, went down to work to try some more things. Tried a computer from a 1993 with an auto transmission, from what I could find on here, people have had success with using auto transmission computers with a manual transmission swap. Still nothing, tried the used dizzy that was kinda broken. I got it to sound like it really wants to start (more than before) but when I put the fuel pump fuse back in it just gets worse. Like it's getting flooded or something. One thing that is kinda weird, is that when I turn my key to "ON" the check engine light doesn't light up. In most cars, the check engine light turns on when you turn the key to on, then goes out when the car starts. I also tried unplugging the MAF sensor and cranking it, and I get no codes. Or check engine lights.

It's not stuck, I can push it up, then it returns down. I also found the resistor/condenser and it tests good. edit: I went to U pull it and got another dizzy. Got home, took it apart to find that somebody has screwed with it already, because the screws that hold part of the sensor inside are gone and the tabs are broken, so it's barely holding itself together. Now this makes me think the other one I got is bad too, because it was full of debris and what looked like metal filings. Going to try another U pull it.

Would it be normal to be able to see part of a valve thru the #1 spark plug hole? I can see the edge of one (I'm guessing exhaust, since it's when the piston is up)

Ok, I just put in the new (used) distributor. I have the fuel pump fuse removed because I didn't want to keep on pumping fuel into the engine when trying to start it. It will sputter and sound like it wants fuel, so I put the fuse in, turn key to on and then proceed to start. But it won't, and the sputtering slows down when (when the fuel pump fuse is installed). I removed the #1 and #3 spark plugs and they smell like gas, and are now more black than they were the other day. EDIT: It's possible that I may have not had the engine really at TDC on the compression stroke. What if I had it on the exhaust stroke? How do you determine #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke with your distributor removed, or in the wrong position? The timing marks on the main pulley? (where you check with a timing light?)

Rotary's are my true love. I'm not sure I can do that.