porsche4786

I got it to run! And I have 140/145psi in every cylinder, when engine is cold. I did do something bad though....apparently it matters which screw you put into the very bottom of the bottom timing cover (I used one with a rubber thing on it, and I had one screw that didn't have rubber on it, which came off the bottom). And the harmonic balancer rubs on it...and when I put the harmonic balancer on, it pushed the screw back, and cracked the aluminum behind the timing cover....so, I guess I'll maybe put some JB weld on it, it doesn't appear to have caused damage to the seal above, which I think is against the oil pan? Forgot to add, I'm getting a code 21

Funny thing about tires....When I was first looking for a pathfinder last year, this chick said the tires were brand new. I went and looked at the truck, the tires were bald, they were off road tires, and the sides still had rubber sticking out on them, but the rest of the tire was gone. I was like, so how new are these tires? Like 40,000 miles ago new? lol

A mechanic/automotive machine shop guy (who I've heard is pretty knowledgeable), think I should put it back together with a new belt and tensioner, see if it runs. Check compression and do a leak down test, he says that will tell me what valves are bent and other problems, and that he could replace valves and such (I'd be taking the heads off). I don't know what kinda money he's thinking, but I'm guessing somewhere around $500. Since I've put soo much time and money into this thing, I'd like to try and keep it....But thinking about another vehicle for a daily driver for the next month or however long it takes me. Then probably sell it when I'm done and feel confident in the pathfinder. Also found a nice lookin 79 Ford F150... http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2150470866.html

lol, I might just wait. But I have my doubts about this damn thing. I pulled the #3 plug and I can see the piston come up and touch a valve when I turn it by hand. (yes, it is painful to watch). Especially since I just put $900 worth of tires and wheels into it. Not to mention the hundreds of dollars in other parts. So I'm going to see how much an engine goes for. There isn't much on craigslist for sale right now, and I'd like to stick with the pathfinder so I can rob the things I just bought for this truck. Lots of them are auto's, and I just can't do that. Here's about the only things that's somewhat interesting... http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/2153343417.html

Somehow I missed your first line of response. Yeah, non, nada, zip. Needle didn't even budge. So I'm hoping it's all ok. But I don't have a chain wrench or anything to get a grip on the harmonic balancer to get the big bolt off on the crankshaft. So it will probably be tomorrow.... I'd say I'm pretty damn lucky to be able to get paid to work on my own truck all day, for the past week. lol

I checked for compression, I have none. Only checked cylinders 1, 3, and 2. I pulled the front apart and got the upper timing belt cover off, I can't get the camshaft timing marks to line up with the piston (thru spark plug hole) at TDC. I will pull off the main pulley and remove the lower cover after lunch. Belt looks fine....

Sorry for all the replies to myself, lol. Zero compression in cylinders 1,3, and 2. Didn't check the rest, but that was enough for me to guess timing belt splipped.

I'm just going back over everything on here...what exactly do you mean by reset the dizzy? This is very weird, because it sounds like it wants to start sooo bad, until you put the fuel pump fuse in, it just sounds like it gets flooded....or the timing is off. But if the timing was off, wouldn't a valve be open while it's trying to compress? I'm going to try and test compression this morning. I did try starter fluid a few times, and it won't run on that either. Also, I tried cranking it yesterday with the coil unplugged and the computer thew a code, but didn't give me a check engine light. I've tried unplugging other things to see if it would throw a code, and it wouldn't.

I found a little black wire that comes off of a little widget that screws onto the alternator. I'm not sure what it is, but the wire is not connected to it. Never mind, it's a condenser for the radio...

Ok, went down to work to try some more things. Tried a computer from a 1993 with an auto transmission, from what I could find on here, people have had success with using auto transmission computers with a manual transmission swap. Still nothing, tried the used dizzy that was kinda broken. I got it to sound like it really wants to start (more than before) but when I put the fuel pump fuse back in it just gets worse. Like it's getting flooded or something. One thing that is kinda weird, is that when I turn my key to "ON" the check engine light doesn't light up. In most cars, the check engine light turns on when you turn the key to on, then goes out when the car starts. I also tried unplugging the MAF sensor and cranking it, and I get no codes. Or check engine lights.

It's not stuck, I can push it up, then it returns down. I also found the resistor/condenser and it tests good. edit: I went to U pull it and got another dizzy. Got home, took it apart to find that somebody has screwed with it already, because the screws that hold part of the sensor inside are gone and the tabs are broken, so it's barely holding itself together. Now this makes me think the other one I got is bad too, because it was full of debris and what looked like metal filings. Going to try another U pull it.

Would it be normal to be able to see part of a valve thru the #1 spark plug hole? I can see the edge of one (I'm guessing exhaust, since it's when the piston is up)

Ok, I just put in the new (used) distributor. I have the fuel pump fuse removed because I didn't want to keep on pumping fuel into the engine when trying to start it. It will sputter and sound like it wants fuel, so I put the fuse in, turn key to on and then proceed to start. But it won't, and the sputtering slows down when (when the fuel pump fuse is installed). I removed the #1 and #3 spark plugs and they smell like gas, and are now more black than they were the other day. EDIT: It's possible that I may have not had the engine really at TDC on the compression stroke. What if I had it on the exhaust stroke? How do you determine #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke with your distributor removed, or in the wrong position? The timing marks on the main pulley? (where you check with a timing light?)

Rotary's are my true love. I'm not sure I can do that.

I sure hope so, possible snow in the forecast for this weekend, and my rx-7 ain't gonna cut it! I'm gonna be pretty upset if it snows and I'm stuck at home, after buying new wheels and tires and chains.....

I'm going to attempt to get to a junk yard tomorrow and get one or two and try them....that is, if I can get off work...

I checked the ECM in mode 3 and got 55

I got it pulled out, and was going to test it like the FSM says, but there is no way to get a meter to touch the terminals with the connector connected. (Like on page EC-133)

Thanks, found that after looking, found camshaft angle sensor. Where to they list the distributor in the FSM? As far as how to remove/install. I've done it before, but I didn't do it the correct way and had to mess with it to get the timing right.

Nobody seems to list those, except O'Reilly auto parts "Crankshaft Position/Angle Sensor". Any other names for it that another parts store might have? Quite expensive, maybe have to go to U-Pull it. How do you pull it out with the discs in there? The top screws are sealed. (On a new one)

I think it's because the engine was getting flooded when I tried to start it a dozen or more times sometimes while pumping the gas. Plus there is a small hole in the exhaust where it is coming out. But I'll check that out!

Is the crank angle sensor that little electronic thingy under the rotor (under the cover) that goes around that metal disc with the slots? Help in by two screws?

I did change the timing belt about 6 months ago, so it would really suck to pull it all back apart.

LOL, I'll get you your codes tomorrow! I now have in my posession new spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor. I'll throw those on tomorrow when I get to work. I hope the belt didn't jump too. I can't believe it would have, is that normally going to happen when you shut it down? I didn't hear anything out of the ordinary when I turned it off. I pulled the rotor off at some point today and looked under that gold colored cover (under the rotor), I don't really know anything about what's in there, but it was clean and dry. I'll take a timing light with me tomorrow and try that turning the dizzy while starting thing.

I haven't replaced the distributor/wires/or rotor yet. I don't know if the previous owner did or not. (Just replaced the coil today). I've been meaning to, but haven't put out the money yet.