porsche4786

I sure hope so, possible snow in the forecast for this weekend, and my rx-7 ain't gonna cut it! I'm gonna be pretty upset if it snows and I'm stuck at home, after buying new wheels and tires and chains.....

I'm going to attempt to get to a junk yard tomorrow and get one or two and try them....that is, if I can get off work...

I checked the ECM in mode 3 and got 55

I got it pulled out, and was going to test it like the FSM says, but there is no way to get a meter to touch the terminals with the connector connected. (Like on page EC-133)

Thanks, found that after looking, found camshaft angle sensor. Where to they list the distributor in the FSM? As far as how to remove/install. I've done it before, but I didn't do it the correct way and had to mess with it to get the timing right.

Nobody seems to list those, except O'Reilly auto parts "Crankshaft Position/Angle Sensor". Any other names for it that another parts store might have? Quite expensive, maybe have to go to U-Pull it. How do you pull it out with the discs in there? The top screws are sealed. (On a new one)

I think it's because the engine was getting flooded when I tried to start it a dozen or more times sometimes while pumping the gas. Plus there is a small hole in the exhaust where it is coming out. But I'll check that out!

Is the crank angle sensor that little electronic thingy under the rotor (under the cover) that goes around that metal disc with the slots? Help in by two screws?

I did change the timing belt about 6 months ago, so it would really suck to pull it all back apart.

LOL, I'll get you your codes tomorrow! I now have in my posession new spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor. I'll throw those on tomorrow when I get to work. I hope the belt didn't jump too. I can't believe it would have, is that normally going to happen when you shut it down? I didn't hear anything out of the ordinary when I turned it off. I pulled the rotor off at some point today and looked under that gold colored cover (under the rotor), I don't really know anything about what's in there, but it was clean and dry. I'll take a timing light with me tomorrow and try that turning the dizzy while starting thing.

I haven't replaced the distributor/wires/or rotor yet. I don't know if the previous owner did or not. (Just replaced the coil today). I've been meaning to, but haven't put out the money yet.

Okay, I just checked the spark again, and it's definitely yellow out of the coil wire against the engine. And the rotor does turn in the distributor. Edit: Got a new coil, still yellow spark.

No firing at all, just turning.

I'm going to check the spark color again...it has an inline coolant heater, but no block heater. To start with starting fluid with fuel injection do you just spray it into the air box? Also going to make sure the rotor is turning on the distributor....

My 1990 pathfinder SE left me stranded after work...at work. Everything has been fine, no problems with starting it. Until I got off work... it turns over, has spark at the coil, and at the #1 spark plug wire (didn't check all of them, nor did I pull the plugs (which are pretty new) because it's 20 something outside, dark and I was freezing after an hour of screwing around with it. AFter messing with it, gas was coming out of the exhaust under the engine, so we've got spark, and gas, but not starting. Ideas? EDIT: The spark I got was a yellow color, not blue. In my past experiences it's been a blue color. The guy at napa (i called to see if they had a coil in stock) said that yellow should be ok...

I run Hawk HPS pads on my RX-7 with slotted rotors and braided lines, they are fantastic. And the 4 piston front calipers sure help. I used the EBC "green stuff" before the Hawk pads. The EBC work great too. Glad I found this post today. I've been getting a squeaking noise from the front drivers side and I think it's either rotors or calipers causing this (or both). I got the Hawk HPS on clearance for like $13 or something crazy for the pathfinder and they have been sitting in the back of the truck for about 8 months (front disc only). I think I paid something like $120 for the rx-7 for all 8 pads, so I think I got a great deal for the pathfinder pads. By the way, just checked ebay, and there is a set of front HPS for $13 free shipping.

Love it when they have 3 names....people look at you like you are an idiot. Thanks for the help!

Where do you get the compression rod bushings? I've looked at rock auto, napa, autozone, O'Reilly, nobody seems to have them.....

Is it ok to replace the center link without having an alignment done? I just had mine aligned and hate spending money on alignments unless I do a bunch of things all at once. I plan on replacing almost all of my bushings on the front steering system and probably some of the suspension bushings and ball joints next summer, then getting alignment done. But I'd really like to replace all the parts I can that don't require an alignment right away.

Probably also depends on the wheels used, with the wheels I got (using the 31x10.5x15) I had to do some lifting of the front, trimming of the front spoiler/lip under the bumper, and remove front mud flaps.

I have an SE and I don't have hardly any options at all. It almost seems like it should be an XE! It came with the chromed wheels with 235's on it. Internal tire carrier, auto climate control, no lsd that I know of, no fender flares, drum rear brakes, no sunroof. It's pretty basic except for the auto climate control, rear wiper with squirter, non tinted windows, it does have power mirrors, power seats, and power windows, cloth seats, A/C (which is disconnected).

I replaced the idler arm and wheel bearings now. I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 and turned it a little side to side and the slop that used to be in the idler is gone. And on the drivers side, I looked at the steering wheel while doing this, and the steering wheel moved with the smallest movements. So I think the pitman arm is fine. I noticed that there are attachment points for a steering damper, which models came with the steering damper mounted?

How much movement between your pitman arm and your tie rod/relay rod are you supposed to have? I can barely see it move before the tie rod/relay rod move, the idler arm definitely needs replacement (and it's hanging there right now waiting for the puller in the morning). I'll try to make a video in the morning...

If it's just the bushing in the idler arm then that is an easy fix. Or can just replace the whole arm. There's no way I'll let them do the work for me. I've only let one place work on any of my cars, and it was my rx7, i got it back with broken bolts, missing parts, and reused gaskets (which blew). And that was from a recommended shop from a very reputable rotary engine re-builder (pineapple racing). I only take my stuff in for work that I don't have the expensive tools for. But this would make sense of why les schwab couldn't get my alignment correct (even thought they said they did).

I just got the off brand "unique" from americas tire co, the wheels are made in the USA, so I figured what the heck. I got hankook atm tires. Everything was $832 installed, and I get to pick up a set of black lug nuts tomorrow at no charge. Well then, I'll have to give it a shot and see. If they do fit then I'll get a spare. I went to firestone complete auto care to get an alignment tonight, (i don't trust les schwab anymore, they couldn't get my alignment correct twice in a row, and they didn't say anything was bent or broken or worn out) after an hour and a half they said that my pitman arm and idler arm were shot. Not sure why it took them soo long to tell me that. Then I call napa to find the parts and the guy said it was weird for me to have to replace them both. He said one of them ( can't remember if he said idler or pitman) was uncommon to replace unless it was broken or stretched. And recommends I go to a different alignment shop to get an honest opinion. So as of now, I guess I'll have to make an appt tomorrow and try to get in. Time to drive the RX-7 in the rain till I get this taken care of.