wood6078
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Posts posted by wood6078
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Lucas engine break-in additive has zddp, I think. I know its high in zinc. We carry it at my store (O'Reilly's).....I'll get you a p/n for it tomorrow and make sure it has the zddp in it.
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Works every time.....
Good move on unplugging the coil, btw. That's when it gets ugly
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Even the tanks? That'd be awesome.....
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Thanks B, counting the teeth is what I meant.
It's like he KNOWS, or something....... :-)
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New rad.
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For the Bosch Icon, are they the 419A or the 419B?
What about the rear? Doesn't look like I can get the Bosch Icon blade for there.
It would be the a's. The b's are for some arms that wipe opposite. The difference is which side the wind deflector, or wing, is on.
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Personally, Rain-X Latitudes on front and an ANCO yellow-box on the back. Just like nunya said, the Rain-X's last, even the framed weatherbeaters.
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I'm not gonna knock factory parts in any way...honestly, they are probably the best thing you can get. But personally, I work for O'Reilly auto parts and as such get an awesome discount on parts, it doesn't make economic sense for me to get the top factory parts. I can tell you that mine has all Gates belts and hoses, and that they are among the best when it comes to aftermarket parts.
Just like B said, you might as well replace everything while you're in there. Don't be like me and put t-belt, tensioner, t-stat, and hoses in. Do the water pump and seals as well. Just had to tear back into mine to replace a pouring front seal and leaky water pump. Also, don't pay attention to chiltons or whoever on the crank seal (FYI, if you go aftermarket, the fel-pro crank seal set I got had the wrong seal for the VG30), you don't have to remove the pan. Just run a screw into it and pull it out. New one pressed in by hand, mostly.
And lastly, double-check your timing before buttoning it all back up. I can tell you from what I did last night that you will want to fill it full of bulletholes if you're filling up the radiator and then figure out you screwed up....
Damn, I ramble way too much.
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Yeah, I read through those. They did help a lot for my understanding of where everything was and how I needed to move things around. Turn the crank a little, turn the cams a little. If the crank feels like it's hit something solid, stop and move the cams. I'm actually most impressed by how quick you guys replied. Thumbs up on that a thousand times!!! I thought it would tomorrow before anyone got back to me. It helps to have a phone that tells me when I have a new e-mail and let's me hop right back on the forum in order to see your replies.
I won't go so far as to say there is no damage, but it doesn't feel like it, and that's a good thing. I need to fix this shoddy exhaust note so I can I hear there is no damage to make myself feel better about the situation. Been listening to what seems like a busted baffle in the muffler for ages now. Maybe something else on this weeks vacation....
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Shew....that was rough. Ended up taking the belt off and VERY carefully turning the crank until I hit tdc on #1. Pulled plug and a long-handled screwdriver down the plug hole. That told me where the crank needed to be. And using the timing marks on the cams, I turned them where they needed to be and installed a new belt, since the old one got covered in AF twice in 2 days. (I didn't drain b4 hand, lower hose spews on everything if you don't). Next, I reinstalled lower cover and balancer. Cranked her over and she sounded fine. Then put everything else back together. I know I got lucky that this worked for me. There is a strong possibility that the cams could have been 180 degrees out, but I knew it was close and adjusted to make it right. All-in-all, it's back together and running just fine. Back to how many teeth I was off, when I turned the crank round to match where I "thought" a timing mark would be for it, the LH cam lined up, and the RH cam was off by about 4 teeth.
Now, I just have to keep an eye on it and see if I stopped the oil and water leaks. :-)
One last bit, I really have to give credit where it's due...I had to call my pops and get his coaching on what to do. Always nice to have someone to call who has about 30 years experience with all types of engines.
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Alright, got it back apart and turning it over by hand, don't hear anything touching. Still feels like it has good compression, but I'll double-check that when I get this part fixed. Where is exactly is the mark opposite the crank? Going off the chiltons manual, it doesn't look like it's where it should be.
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So, as the title says, I screwed up somewhere putting the pathy back together last night. Put a crank seal and water pump in. Marked the t-belt and reinstalled seeing as it's only ~5k miles old. Now it's sounds out of time. If just one tooth somewhere, would the valves still be okay? The question is really how far out can it be b4 pistons meet valves?
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im trying to do this and run some foglight wires, how in the hell do you get the knob off the AT shifter in order to get the console all the way out? or do you just pull the console up and maneuver it around the t-handle?
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I have an app on my phone that keeps track, and adjusting for tire size difference, my best is 19.6 and my worst is 13.3
Mine's always around 13-14....only thing I don't like about the truck. What app is that?
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-cv axles, boots been busted since I started driving it
-front seal
-tranny leak, no idea where, but it's only bout a quart per 2k miles
-bout 4 rust spots on passenger side. Trying to figure out how much of the body I don't want to paint to make it look right
-o2 sensor to try to get better than 13/17mpg city/hwy. Don't know if that'll help, but everything I replace still says Nissan on it, even at 170k miles.
- front brakes! (brgs and all)
I think that's it---hopefully
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If the evaporator core was leaking, your a/c wouldn't be cooling. I'd say it's just an issue with the drain.
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i usually use a p90 with the bling perk so i can use a silencer AND a red dot sight. i use that with the commando and lightweight perks and i'll be running around getting kills all over the map
as long as my internet connection doesnt start lagging though....
lmao =]
Lmfao......That's the only kind of shooting do too
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Besides the bone stock 95 xe, there's my 96 ranger splash 2wd 4.0, 5spd. 240k and needin body work and temp motor pulled back out for the freshly rebuilt orig. To go back in. It's by baby.
Other than that, there's the 01 xploder I picked up for 2500 bucks that my ole lady drives.
Then theres the 66 Falcon 2-dr that's waitin on mre body work and the bored and stroked Windsor to go in.
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Where'd u get the axle from? I work at O'Reilly and in that situation, we'd give you back the money for the part and the core. Since they're not going to have a core to hand back to you, they owe you the core charge as well.
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Check the mechanical function of the trans first. Make sure the pump is spinning and building pressure, etc.
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Check the flexplate (flywheel), Could have broken out the center, so now there is nothing connecting the crank to the torque converter.......just an idea
N/m, it wouldn't start if this happened
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Check the flexplate (flywheel), Could have broken out the center, so now there is nothing connecting the crank to the torque converter.......just an idea
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Thanks nunya, nice tips. Question though, are you sure it's not just two screws? I noticed where it looked like a 3rd one should go (far right) but there was nothing there so i checked the driver side armrest, only two screws there also.
mine's the same on both sides.....just 2 screws, same positions as yours. just got done puttin some 5.25" up front
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Mine does the side-to-side wobble, too. I think it's prolly where the hinge bolts up under the wiper cowl.
VG30E rocker arm preload?
in The Garage
Posted
Just b/c I said I would....even though u don't need it. :-)
Lucas engine break-in oil additive p/n 10063