swapdip

Hey guys if you have a minute, check out the video I made on how I replaced my timing belt: A few questions for those who have been here before: After doing this process I notice that my truck has a much more "throaty" sound to it, anyone else find that to be true? My dad explained that now that the valves are controlled by a properly tight belt they are opening and closing more precisely, and the sound is actually how the truck ought to sound...anyways just wanted to confirm that. Also, I know the ecu controls timing a little, do I need to get a timing light and adjust it myself as well? The truck idled a little erratically at first, but after about 2 mins it smoothed out and idled great, although there is a slight reduction in power while driving. Anyways my neighbor on the left says to get a light and time it, my neighbor on the right says don't mess with it just drive it at highway speeds for a while and the computer will work itself out, whats the right thing to do? Thanks, and I hope my video encourages anyone who has never done this before to attempt it for themselves. -Max UPDATE: That loss of power has been attributed to an improperly attached vacuum line, now the truck runs perfect!

Also a really simple thing to check that I don't believe anyone has suggested is the battery terminals, sometimes they get just corroded enough that they allow enough electricity to pass through to light up the lights and radio, but not enough for the starter to engage. This happened to my pathfinder a while back, every few weeks or so it would fail to start until I took the wires off and scraped at them with a wire brush...my symptoms were exactly like yours and a good scraping was all it took to clean them up and fix the problem for good. Also you say your battery is 3 yrs old thats kind of old for a battery, it might be losing juice, while you are at the auto parts store buying a starter have them test the battery too. Good luck

OK thanks guys

Do you guys think this would fit a 1990 SE? http://tallahassee.craigslist.org/cto/1712444130.html

O ok well that's a relief, I'll put shocks and bushings on the summer to do list.

OK so I've got a 1990 SE with the LSD and about 177,000 miles, and we have been through muddy trails before, great fun. Anyways I was at the beach last weekend in some pretty soft sand, and I noticed that if I crept real lightly through the sand then it ran as normal, but if I gave it even moderate gas the truck would vibrate and shake. I mean, it got itself out of the sand, and a couple other stuck trucks as well, but the whole truck would shake like I was driving over a bunch of little speed bumps at high speed. Does it in 2wd and 4x4. It doesn't do this in mud or deep water or packed sand, just light sand. So I was wondering if this was normal for older LSDs, or an indication of an approaching problem? I really only have a vague idea of how LSDs work, never opened one up or anything, so any advice would be great. Oh, and I just replaced the fluids with ATF, there's no clunking into gear when engaged, no leaks, everything seems to be in tip-top shape otherwise. Thanks guys.

I installed a trans cooler from an Explorer on my Pathy, fit right in front of the ac radiator and was nearly a bolt-in job. I think I read somewhere on here not too long ago about the percent difference of heat radiation between installing your trans cooler in front, between the two radiators, and behind the radiators in front of the fan shroud. Having your at trans cooler in front of both radiators will give you something like 30% better cooling (I forget the actual stats) but it is by far the best option. As far as your smell I agree with the previous post that the holes in the floor are most likely the culprit, in one of my first vehicles (Camaro) I got a very strong at fluid smell when a rusted out hole in the trunk allowed for the heating, and subsequent melting of an old bottle of at fluid I had in the trunk which dripped out onto the exhaust...that was a welcome surprise to find that I didn't need a new trans. Good luck!

If this story about how stupid I am doesn't help you then at least it should entertain you: The reason I got my Pathfinder was I was so fed up with my Ford Ranger. It had a vibration/shimmy above 65mph that I couldnt fix for the life of me, despite all kinds of work, so I traded it for my Pathfinder. Brought it home and dangit, the Pathfinder has the exact same problem at the exact same speed! Well, come to find out that the only place near my house that I can get over 65 is a small patch of highway, that was where I was doing my road tests and wouldnt you know it the asphalt was all warped there for about 2 miles, exactly the place I was doing my tests. The ranger was fine! I'm glad I made the trade tho, but I sure did feel stupid afterwards.

I'm going to nominate this as the best piece of advice I've heard all day.

Oh yeah, it would be downright immoral of you to leave a Pick and Pull without stealing at least as much in parts as you bought. I mean thats just junkyard economics. My pockets are always bulging every time I leave that place, I have enough 80A fuses and headlight bulbs and shifter knobs and dash vents and lug nuts and wire assemblys and tail light lenses and interior dash components and emblems and hoses and spare floor change to last both cars forever.

Haha well I guess its the thought that counts. By my estimation the current timing belt has about 90k on it so I am a little hesitant to drive it very far. I think I recall not too far back someone from north Florida posting on the forum, I was hoping I wasn't the only one down here in this neck of the swamp.

I'm going to tackle my timing belt this weekend, but I've never done it before and despite the vast wealth of knowledge on this website and my Haynes manual I'm still a little nervous removing all of that gear from my engine. If anyone on the forum who has done it before wants to come to Tallahassee and help me out, I'll buy the beer and give you 50 bucks. Cmon, it will be fun. Let me know, Thanks

I'm trying to sell some Trooper rims in the Parts for sale section, I know they fit. They aren't the prettiest rims in the world, but they'll work in a pinch.

Auto or stick? Year? Mileage? Sounds like you might be getting a lean mixture. Check your air intake hose coming from the air filter to make sure it is in good repair and not cracked. Also, check your vacuum hoses. To do this, start your engine and let it idle as you squirt wd40 or starter fluid or even propane around the vacuum hoses. Listen for a surge in the idle (caused by the engine sucking in the combustible gas). Once you hear the surge you know you have found a leaky vacuum hose. I would start there if I were you, I'm sure someone else will have suggestions for other possible causes.

It wasn't my idea, the previous owner put it on there. I pulled it up one day and the dash is cracked but not even all that bad really, I'm not sure why she did that. But it doesnt bother me none.

So because any good redneck needs a cb with a PA speaker to yell through, I picked up a set just today. At a loss for a good, dry place under the hood to mount the speaker, I came up with this little number: Mounted right on the underside of the hood with sheetrock screws which were just short enough not to poke thru to the other side. As you can see when the hood lowers it just slides right into that little cavity there. Stays dry, forward facing, and really accessable with no removal of other parts. Pretty damn proud of myself. And the unit sits up top. PS ignore the obvious fire hazard of that all that speaker wire. The truck is always too wet to catch on fire anyhow.

180,000 on my 1990 SE, and with the original timing belt! Just kidding.

OK so I get it that the tranny cooler should be bypassed and an aftermarket installed, but I was wondering if it is worth it to install a t-junction in the hose and run a second filter in conjunction with the first. This way both coolers are used, but if the stock one gets clogged up there should still be more than adequate flow and cooling through the aftermarket one. My cooler still seems to have good flow so it seems a shame to bypass it altogether, I was wondering if a couple of T joints in the hose would make it possible to use them both but not one after the other, eliminating the need to rely on a single one. If anyone has had any luck with this system pls let me know, I don't want to make some kind of a thermodynamic vortex or something that eliminates all fluid flow.

Totally, or whatever you want to call it. I've never owned a car before that included one and I'm pretty stoked that the Pathfinder came with one hidden under the seat. Its kind of like my Pathfinder is self-aware of all the rust that I need to bust through for the removal of any bolt, and came equipped. Love it.

How awesome is it that Pathfinders come with their own cheater bar? I've used mine so many times on general repairs, not to mention changing tires. A really handy thing to have around.

I just changed my fluid/filter and flushed the torque converter thanks to the suggestions on this thread, and it has made a ton of difference. No more clunking between gears, and the transmission is much more energetic than it used to be. At 170,000 miles it is shifting like the day it was made. I couldn't be more pleased, it was a perfect Sunday afternoon. I'd never done it before, so in preparation I watched this guy's youtube video: He has a bunch of good videos, he taught me how to replace ball joints, tie rod ends, distributor, and now tranny filter/gasket. Definitely worth a looksee. Also, I noticed that while at first he just seems like an ordinary guy, once you have been watching for a while it becomes obvious that he in fact has a funny accent. Thanks NPORA. And thank you, funny accent dude.

Yeah my truck cruises pretty nicely at 80mph, better than any other vehicle I've ever driven of that size. Thanks guys I feel better about that bearing issue.

Yeah that's what I thought, wheels show no sign of slop or movement when jiggled by hand in the air...I don't think the bearings are very bad at all.

I recently got this 90 Pathfinder from a guy who said it had worn bearings, caused by the local tire shop that "effed them damn bearings up when they put the new tires on." He traded it to me cheap because of the whirring noise he heard at highway speed. Not too much of a bother to me, I thought, I've replaced bearings before. On the ride home I did notice sort of a high whirring noise above 70mph kind of like worn bearings, but it seems to be coming from both sides universally, and so I wonder, could it just be the sound of these brand new 31x10.5 tires? So I ask you guys, how loud are your tires? And could that be the noise we hear?

Well I suppose you all covered pretty much everything, my comealong and stout rope are perhaps my favorite things that I carry with me at all times, although I don't get to use them as much as I would like. This thread is a good lesson for all drivers not just wheelers, because I am always amazed by how unprepared some people can be in their cars. My first car was an 87 IROC that was constantly getting stuck in snow, mud, big puddles, etc, as well as mechanically letting me down, and I quickly learned the importance of a kit that every single driver on the road should carry with them at all times. Good flashlight Appropriate clothing for the weather Necessary fluids for the vehicle A jack and spare tire changing tools Basic tool set incl. ratchet and sockets A baseball bat (for defense) Cell phone Multi-tool with sharp knife Spare key Plus any area-specific necessities (ie tire chains, extra H20 for overheating, etc) My girl drives a Mazda 323 and I make sure she is well stocked for emergencies, even tho she never leaves the pavement. Its a good idea, tell your 2wd friends.