88_Pathy

A 31x10.5 is the best option on a stock Pathy. Your steering will hate a 12.5. On stock rims a 10.5 will not rub but depending on the backspacing of an aftermarket wheel it might. A 32x10.5 would fit ok with a stock height suspension with fancy trimming. Wider is not better when trying to fit tires on a Pathfinder.

I set mine at +19 and it runs great. It feels more peppy down low.

Red- If you have a t-bar crank and no front sway bar you should look at your front tires when you turn too. They freaking lean way in. It is crazy. Then you get the inside tire bouncing off of the ground when you get on the freeway.

Hey has anyone bought one lately and if so which one. I was playin with my buddies and it was so sweet. I was lookin at 4wd truck style r/cs and came up with a Duratrax mini quake. Any opinions are welcome. Thanks

Why?

I love my stock adj shocks in the front. They work great and I have 170,000 on mine.

I got 170,000 on mine and I just put on 33's and it has not messed anything up too bad. The Auto trannies are already not so hot and 33's just add to it a little. I would never go smaller than a 33 now that I have them.

Do a 3 in suspension lift a rear locker and 32s and it will be sweet.

So you did 3+3 with 31? Those will be small in my opinion.

If you don't mind a little fab a Marlin Crawler bumper would be sick.

That would be it. The stock fronts will work just fine so don't worry so much about those but the rear is the most critical. I would get the 26in extended length 5000 and JGC coils.

Well I would look in the pinned topics.

I thought it was the 300zx turbo studs that were the upgrade. But I could be mistaken.

Well I would do a search on this site because there is alot of info that you can use. Anyways you could always try 4 wheel parts because it is cheaper there. Good luck.

With the stock backspacing with the 12.5 wide tire will rub the frame where the tension rod connects real bad. Also they are a tad narrow for the tire width but doable buy some shops. I would do a body lift to clear them. I had a 3in suspension lift with tons of trimming and cleared the front fine but the rear still rubbed like crazy.

if you plan to wheel it then a body lift is a must otherwise a suspenion lift and a cut off tool combined with a BFH will do the trick.

I was unable to find the right color tint to match the stock tint but I did a 20% metal based tint and it gave it the same sheen of the stock and looks good too. Good luck.

Sweet thanks that is what I needed .. but now the picture?

No one??

Hey guys without paying much attention to detail I filled my power steering up with power steering fluid. Is this ok or do I need to drain it and fill it with ATF I am not sure here so some help would be great. Also does anyone have a close up of how far their steering shaft slipped after the bodylift. Thanks.

Well first off they are not cheap but that being said I have seen good deals on ebay so good luck there. I would start by looking on the exhaust right after the manifold then work down till you find all of them. I think there will be 1 after each manifold then 1 after the cat.

Wow sounds like a blast.. I better go get the parts soon then because school starts soon.

You were lucky man. Also has you ever done the compression rod bushings. If so how hard were they. I was checkin them out while I was under there and they look a little worn if you know what I am sayin.

The body lift is sweet so far but it is not what I want in the end. OUCH!! I will sure watch out for the 2 foot ruts you must have hit to do that kind of damage. Did you break anything else while you were at it?

I dont think that having the t-bar cranked high has anything to do with going through CVs. It is the droop with no bump stops. I have the same set up as 88 and it has treated me well so far aside from some clicking at full droop. I would like to make some spacers like 88 said because a SAS is out of the question for a long while so a sturdier IFS would be great.