radar

entropy, you must have plugged your exhaust manifold leak with a chunk of carbon from the engine, lol

I have been watching the sales, looking at 6.5" speakers, a half decent set are 130.00 each, was hoping a 100.00 buck amp would take care of it, would rather put the cash into other mods.

Have a sony deck with stock Nissan speakers, wondering if adding a 4 channel amp would bring a bit more base, sounds pretty weak as is, trying not to spend a fortune on speakers. This is not a Bose system so speakers are not amped already. Has anyone tried amping the stock speakers and if so, did it help?

A question on the Nissan trim caps, will they still fit over the Warn hubs or do they need to be cut out with a dremel tool?

Thks again, excellent photos, always nice to have an idea what your getting into before you start!

Now that is a stuck wire, mine were dirty after 170k, I think they were the originals, wires came right off in any case. I found the factory tools worked pretty well, I agree, usually use a plug socket with the obble extension my self, not sure why I didn't this time, in any case, they are done.

I will look around for some PB, so how does the screwdriver trick work?

I have air, what is a PB blaster? Guessing from the looks of how the hub attaches to the rotor it is a penetrant. By the way, do you need a special tool to remove the wheel bearing lock nut?

Thks for the links and the info, those pictures say a thousand words, looking forward to this job, going to repack the bearings and replace the rotors and pads at the same time.

Guess my stock tool had the rubber removed, I speak from my own frustration of having plug#4 drop under the intake, took a bit of coaxing to get it out, the tape worked like a charm for the remaining plugs.

Thks Slick, think I will have a beer to celebrate this weekend, I imagine my son will join me, he is back on a 2 week leave from afganistan, not alot of beer drinking going on over there at the moment.

Just ordered a set of Warn 2091 manual hubs, I read the how to on 89-95 pathfinders, I believe my hubs are different, not auto locking but fulltime locked. Is the re and re pretty simple on these, any tips to get me started are appreciated, thks.

Yeah it was fun, as in not, although a good feeling and sense of accomplishment to know I saved about $500.00 in labour costs. Using some of that money to buy a new set of warn hubs, also picking up new front rotors and pads, that should do me for awhile.

A tip that can save you some frustration, put a piece of tape inside the socket, this will hold the plugs in the socket as you remove them and ensure they don't fall into some very dark and hark to reach places. Test it on one of the new plugs for snugness. Use a piece of vacuum hose to thread the new plugs into the cylinders, makes it easier to get them started and should prevent cross threading. Also, clean the spark plug recesses with an air hose before you start, mine had a ton of crud in them, not good if it falls into a cylinder and lodges under a valve seat etc. Lastly, use antisieze on the top half of the plug threads, will help down the road if you ever need to remove them again. This may be all common dog to you, if not, it may help prevent you from turning a small job into a big one.

Now adays the reulator is part of the alternator in most cases, you could check to see if all the connections on the alternator and battery are clean and tight, as well, ensure the alternator belt is tight.

Ok, she's done, new waterpump, thermostat and hose, antifreeze, timing belt, timing belt tensioner and spark plugs. Started right up and purring like a kitten, man that was fun. I managed to thread the 6mm bolts into the crank pulley, came off fine after that. Two things I found a pain about this job, besides the crank pulley, the alternator belt tensioner adjusting bolt is in a horrible spot, took a while to get that belt off and on and the waterpump, it went on easy enough but when I went to install the lower belt cover, found one of the bolts that went through the water pump wouldn't thread in so had to adjust the pump slightly, thankfully no leaks. No I didn't change the cam or crank seals, all is dry and I didn't feel like going there unless I had too, my maxima is a 99 as well, over 200k on her and no leaks yet so I will leave those until I have to. Besides, when I look at the parts I replaced, they are all in very good condition at 170K, makes me wonder why I did it, the belt has no wear on it that I can see, the tensioner is rolling fine, ah well, better safe than sorry. Thanks for the answers to my questions, they were very helpful, John.

Ok, after trying to get the info from nissan for three days on the thread size, gave up and bought a new crank pulley, low and behold the holes are 6mm. So I will try threading my bolts in again on the weekend, must be dirt or rust in there, or, someone else already did a number on them.

Only one bolt on this one, the 27mm holding it to the crank, two threaded holes that are used for pulling, I will call Nissan for the size, thks for the help folks.

unncpathfinder, I don't see any bolts on my hb, just the main bolt and two bolt holes, this being a 99, are they different?

Ok, this is definitely an interesting job, made more interesting by all the corrosion on the bolts etc. Have most of it apart except for the crank pully, can't budge it, bolt is out but it aint movin. I thought I read somewhere that the holes in it were 6mm so went out and picked up some bolts to use with a harmonic balancer puller, no joy. The threads seem smaller than 6mm, may have damaged them with my bolts. Tried prying it and ended up breaking a 1/2 inch long piece of the rear edge off. So I have two questions, what thread are the crank puller holes (mine is a 99) and how bad is a broken edge if it is filed smooth, will that suffice? Any and all assistance is appreciated, John.

Ok, 90 degs sounds good, I have pretty strong hands so this will probably result in me over tightening a bit, too be on the safe side, will run the engine for a short time before I bolt it back together, if it whines, will back it off a bit more. So this tensioner, is it locked in position and never moves after or is the spring actually providing tension against the belt, haven't tore it apart yet, almost sounds like the spring is doing nothing.

Steve, just looked at the manual and it looks as you say that the insert is at 5:30, I will take note of where it is when I stat and aim for similar when finished, thks for pointing that out, not as mysterious now. Have to say, 88s is definitely not in the 5:30 posiition, although the allen key is. May depend on the model year.

Makes sense, thks.

88, I am getting ready to do my timing belt, 99 Path, 3.3, when setting the tension, you refer to the allen key being at 5:30, where did it start, 12 oclock? Appreciate any help, too bad your link on doing a belt was removed, would have been useful, John.

Hi again, have done a fair amount of reading on the topic, installing a timing belt this weekend, I am confused by the ref to using feeler gauge between the tensioner and the timing belt. How do you set the tension in this way, I would expect zero clearance under tension, my thoughts are I will set it for about the same tension (feel) as the belt I am removing. Any tips are appreciated, first time on this job and am a bit nervous of this step, thks, John.