Simon
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Posts posted by Simon
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What is the answer? I don't want to post my thoughts if I'm way off!
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I'm with Dowser. You're running a 15x10 rim with very little backspacing. Switch out the rims, and your issues will vanish. Lots of people run 12.5" wide tires on 8" rims. Some even run them on 7" rims without issues.
If you changed rims, to a less aggressive stance, you'd fit your 33's, or even narrow 35's. with minor trimming. People don't pay enough attention to rim backspacing when discussing tire fitment. It makes all the difference in the front end while turning.
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Worth a shot. Your Order Number is: 326 We'll see if anything shows up in Canada.
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Overdrive off turns your 4 speed transmission, into a 3 speed transmission. No overdrive.
Power mode will still allow for overdrive to engage, but it will hold gears longer before shifting, to keep the revs higher if you're towing/hauling.
A combination of the two is probably best if you've got a heavy load.
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1)E-AT is for power or normal mode. Power holds the transmission in gear a little longer before shifting up.
2) Probably sagging rear springs. It's not uncommon on older rigs. If you want to lift, search Jeep Grand Cherokee coils. If you want to go back to stock height, get a new set of stock springs
3) 5w30
Oh, and Welcome!
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There are some who have done it. I did on my 2nd WD21, and reverted back. Granted, I had mine installed without a temp sensor, so my main fan would turn on with the truck, and my secondary fan by switch, or with the AC.
It worked great in the city, but on the highway it actually blocked airflow, and caused the truck to run hot. I didn't see any performance gains with the e-fan. Personally, I'd stick with the clutch fan. But others may disagree.
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Putting Lucas oil stabilizer in the crank case is a good way to speed up the death of a VG.
No it's not. I ran it for years without issue. I know of tons of people with all different types of motors that run it. There's no problem with it.
People like to point fingers as to why their junk fell apart. Whether it be a Nissan, Ford, Toyota, Honda etc, I guarantee you, if the motor died, it wasn't because of an oil additive.
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YEs, that's what you want. FRONT V8 JGC Coils.
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You wheeled your R50??
It has to be pointed out though, the only people that have rust issues live in places that spread corrosives on the roadways. The majority of pathys enjoy a salt free existence and do not suffer.
B
Agreed. But if you live in a salt state/area, it's a BIG issue.
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Torsion bars provide 0 lift from model to model. Some are stiffer, yes, but the only thing that provides lift is cranking the torsion bards. I had a full set of skids, ARB Bumper, Winch and lights all on stock T-bars in both my WD21's with no issue, and currently have the same setup (add sliders) on my WD22. Stock t-bars are fine, unless you want a stiffer suspension in the front.
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Try removing the sway bar first. Then flex the suspension. See how the coil looks, and whether or not you need to extend brake lines or anything like that. It'll cost you nothing,may satiate your desire for more flex, and/or will allow you to answer your own questions on what shocks to run.
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thanks Simon... I'm gonna go fund a Metro now so WhiteOwl seems like an Indy car!
Make sure it's a 3cyl though, or it'll be counter productive! -
Here's the cheapest and easiest way to feel like your VQ is more powerful.
Drive a VG equipped truck for a week. Your VQ will feel like a racecar!
I just saved you a bunch of money. You're welcome!
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Mr T has it mostly, though, to say that an R51 is as capable as an R50 offroad is laughable. Try to get an R51 to articulate to follow the terrain, and you'll be disappointed. Maybe in straight mud, it might be okay, but once articulation comes into play, forget it.
Those who laud the WD21 as an offroad vehicle, while saying the R50 is weak, haven't seen, or experienced the two in action enough. The R50 more than holds it's own with proper armor (which will be heavily utilized) and in many ways holds up better. I've done far less suspension/steering work on Pezzy's R50 than I have on my WD21's or my WD22 with both are equipped with equally terrible steering systems, even "properly" built.
The R51 is not nearly as big as Silverton made it out to be. (to compare it to the Expedition is ridiculous) It is longer than the R50, though, not much wider.
Personally, given the rust issues of the WD21, and, as we're finding out, the R50, I'd venture to say, long term, the R51 might be the best choice, especially if you don't wheel very often. After dealing with the WD21 rust for years, and just the weekend experiencing the same thing on Nige's truck, I can't help but wish that Nissan used better steel. My WD22 Xterra frame is in beautiful shape, only 5 years newer than Nige's truck, or my own WD21s, which have all required extensive patching.
I absolutely loved my WD21's. They were ultra reliable vehicles with the rust issues aside. The steering/IFS still pisses me off in my X, and and I would love the R50/R51 strut/rack and pinion setup. It's far more reliable than the garbage in the WD series trucks.
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The driveway's a little crooked where I took the pictures, but I'll check the height side to side next time I'm parked somewhere flat. (That's how you tell if the sway bars are wonky, right?)
Welcome to NPORA. What you're checking is the torsion bars, which are the springs in the front suspension. Sway bars won't cause a lean.
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A new hood or a body lift.
CaR50. No soup.
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You'll need a new hood, as the supercharger is taller, hence the bulge in the 02-04 Frontier and Xterra hoods. Also, the AC compressor and PS are on opposite sides as well as a few other little differences. In addition, you'll need the ECU from the Supercharged motor as the fuel mapping is different.
That's just what I can think of off the top of my head. There's probably more to it.
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Man, you need an impact gun. It makes the job of breaking loose the crankshaft bolt so much easier. It's not about torque. It's about the impact vibration freeing the stuck bolt while not turning the crankshaft.
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Door panels and carpet should all fit whether 2 or 4 door. The center console actually looks complete, if you had carpet.
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Yep, those will work. They're aftermarket, so there may be some massaging involved to get it to fit right, but that's what you're looking for.
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The company I purchased engine from said it was a 35,000 mile engine, so I didn't do a belt. Recent investigations on engine condition could indicate higher mileage, so, just to be on the safe side, I will rebelt the engine. I wanted to make sure the engine I purchased was solid mechanically too, before I crank out good money on Genuine Nissan timing kit (not cheap on VG30DETT engine).
Fair enough. Just seemed odd, but your explanation makes sense. Great work, by the way.
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Oh man, you didn't do the timing when you had the motor out? Would have been SO easy on a stand!
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Happy Birthday!
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From what I've heard that happens with 33's..
Yeah, that's true. You can keep it together a little longer a good set of UCAs, and some quality ball joints that are all greased regularily. The fact is, though, that no matter what, it's all band aid solutions. To be honest, it's not so much the suspension, as the steering that really sucks.
1995 Pathfinder Alternator Quit(?)
in The Garage
Posted
Brake, battery, sometimes AT Temp lights come on when the alternator is dead. You can try to clean out your current one, but chances are, you just need a new battery.
I'm going to delete your other topic of the same name in a different section. There's no need for 2.