Simon
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Posts posted by Simon
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^^^^ Or lower ball joint. Sometimes the weight of the knuckle/tire/brake/bearings can hide lower balljoint problems. Jack up the truck so that the front wheel is only an inch or two off the ground, then put a long prybar under the tire, and lift up. If there's play, that you didn't notice before, it's most likely the lower ball joint.
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The spare is located under the cargo area.
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There were cloth heated seats in WD21's as I had a heated driver's seat in my first one (95 SE). That said, I've never seen a heated passenger seat in cloth in a WD21, but that doesn't mean they don't exist.
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Yes, HB UCA's will work. That's what many of us have run. That's what the Superlift/RoughCountry arms are.
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I ran 285/75R16 on both my WD21's with the same lifts as you mentioned. I don't remember the backspacing on my rims, but they did stick out a quite a bit further than stock Legos. I never had an issue, except at full stuff in the rear, which massaged the rear quarters a bit to fit the tires.
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1) The speed limit for 4 low should be posted on your visor. I can't remember it offhand, but it's not very fast.
2) You can drive the truck in 1st or 2nd if you want. It won't hurt anything, unless you overrev.
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Sounds to me like input shaft bearing. Has the fluid level been increased as per the TSB? If not, that bearing has been starved of fluid.
Also, make sure to use GL-4 ONLY. I ran a GL-5 fluid in my first WD21, and destroyed the bronze synchros in the transmission. They came out in chunks.
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You need to find rims with a 100mm (4") bore. For those tires, a 7" wide rim would be perfect.
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Nope, only 2 of them. The middle ones will come in your kit. Those haven't changed.
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Quick fix...pull the anti-theft fuse. Then search for your electrical draw, bad sensor, door or hood pin, or hatch sensor.
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They are the same. 100mm bore is required. TOyota rims will fit, as typically they're 125mm bore.
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I think that actualy comes stock. I think IIRC that its supposed to act as a catch for oil droplets from your PCV system. I may be wrong on that though
You're correct. The pipe cleaner is stock.
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I'm not sold on Poly stuff. Anything poly on my truck seems to wear out FAR faster than it's OEM, rubber counterparts. Yes, poly is stiffer, yes it's more readily available (aftermarket), but I don't think it's as durable as rubber.
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The intercooler would have been a little easier to locate down there. The priority of the project is to decrease the lag. This configuration cuts the amount of intercooler ducking by about 70%.
This engine has a 7.8 to 1 compression from factory. Any idea I can come up with to get the boost to amp up faster is being entertained. I was thinking supercharger for many years but it doesn't compensate for the altitude like a turbo will.
And... when this engine takes a crap it makes it much easier to shoehorn a VH45 under the hood.
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Simon, interesting enough this rig is next.. It is currently on 33's and will be lower on 35's when done.
Makes sense regarding the intercooler.
I look forward to seeing pics of that sucker done up as well. Your work is always a treat for us mere mortals.
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I believe it has more to do with manual vs auto transmissions. Auto gets the 4.6, typically, while MT gets the 4.3
Pezzy's is an XE with 4.6 gears. As is my dad's 2002. Both have auto transmissions.
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Loving that low COG build
X2 Looks really good. I love the ingenuity of putting the rad in the bumper. I do wonder, though, if the intercooler may have been a better choice? No fluid in it to spill all over the place in the, albeit unlikely, event of a puncture.
Great work again though.
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This is an R50 (according to the profile). Check your steering rack bushings, as well as ball joints for play. Otherwise, it could be the strut bearings (top of the struts) or even the strut tower corrosion issue for which there's a recall.
Basically, jack the truck up, put it on stands, and have someone turn the wheel left and right, while you poke around underneath for the sound.
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Adjust the rear brakes. The drums could be way out of adjustment, causing the shoes to move far further than they would normally have to in order to contact the drum.
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Use Warn hubs, leave them locked in the winter. Same as having the stock setup.
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Yep, I think Ryan (GrimGreg) may also be from the old message list days. But don't quote me on that.
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Shows you the dedication he's put in, as well as the ability to learn. Good on ya Steevo!
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Leaf fan. Have been all my life. One day.....
Oh, Yendor, the thread is about hockey, not soccer!
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WD22 Xterra also has a TX-10. I believe it has a different spline count than the WD21 model.
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how long does the TB take to replace on this truck???
If you've got everything you need in terms of parts, and the correct tools, probably around 7-8 hours for a first timer.
I've got it down to about 3.5-4 hrs for a VG motor now. But I've done quite a few of them. My first one I must have lined up, and relined up the timing belt 15 times because I was so scared, which I'm sure accounts for much of the added time.
XTERRA to WD21
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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I've only had my X off road a few times (busy life the last year or so) but I can tell you this.
The Xterra rear end suspension sucks, stock. I've installed revolver shackles and longer shocks, which should hopefully cure this issue. I'll report back on that later. WD21 wins here, so far.
The LSD also sucks, with about half the strength of the WD21 unit. This was exacerbated by the fact that I couldn't keep both rear tires on the ground with any reliability. WD21 wins here as well.
The increase in power is noticeable, and appreciated both on and off road. Especially given that I run 33x12.5" tires, I need all the help I can get. WD22 wins here.
Solid frame in the WD22 is definitely an ease of my mind, and while that's not an issue for all WD21 owners, it certainly becomes one at some point in time for those in salt using areas. WD22 wins here.
They both lose for HORRIBLE steering design, as essentially nothing changed in that regard from WD21 to WD22. It was $h!t and it's still $h!t