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87pathy

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Posts posted by 87pathy

  1. I think the belt has the 3 markings too and that should be good. I wouldn't really trurn much of anything without the belt except to bump it to align so you want to find TDC before removing it.

     

    Your spark timing should be as it was. You shouldn't have to re-time it but never know.

    yes three marks

     

    if your off too much on your valve timing, say goodbye to your valves.. thats the crappy thing

  2. Yeah, I didn't drain all the coolant out of the engine, just the radiator

     

    Me either but you drained the rad. the bottom hose is connected to the engin is it not? and there is no thermostat to hold any coolant back.

     

    Mudfinder - I'd try this, it took me a week to find out WTF was going on, the first time i changed the thermostat.. it over heated and when i would pull the cap of the radiator it looked full. Then i pulled the cap off started it and after a few it went down. I filled it up and no more problems. I even verified this when my water pump went. Same problem

  3. In addtion, most belts that you buy have marks on them to show you where they ares supposed to be in relation to the marks that will be on the gears.

     

    Gears normally have a punch mark on them and the belt will have some lines on it

     

    its really not hard to do at all, i did it with abosolutley no knowledge of what i was doing at the time.

  4. Filling the radiator on a pathy actually takes some know how. I've changed my water pump twice and the radiator once. Each time, i had to leave the filler cap off the radiator let it run till it warms up and the thermostat opens then watch your level go down rapidly. Fill at this time until you can't get any more in. Its quiete common to get air in the top of the engine when drained and this is where your coolent disappears to.

  5. Does anyone recommend Purolator? They make their own as well the the Pep Boys store brand ones.

    i've heard mixed responses in regard to puralator, I guess its probably not so bad , i've ran them in my rigs from time to time (when i don't do my own oil change) and havn't had any problems, i alway tell them i don't care what kind of filter as long as its not a fram.

  6. Fram filters are the worst you can buy.

     

    Seriously.

     

    I've since gone to NAPA Gold or Wix filters(same manufacturer). They're just as cheap and work great.

    Thanks for the backup 88, those things are horrible.

     

    Like 88 said, use either wix, napa, or carquest (They are all made by wix)

     

    Also, if for a decent cheep oil, use Napa oil its made by Valvoline thus must meet their quality standars and it usually runs about 1.19 per quart

  7. Once again, good write up :cool2: :aok:

    but please please please tell me you didn't put that or another FRAM filter on your pathy.. :oops: Those things should be outlawed. I've seen them plug up after 10min running, i've seen them come apart after 500 miles, they don't have a proper check in them so you get dry start ups. etc etc.

  8. No question, about that, shops will rape you without a reach around.. just giving the kid some options. on what is possible. If you do the work yourself front and rear axle will cost you about 1000 - 2000 if you pay somebody to do it it will cost you about 5-6 grand front and rear.

  9. how to build a SAS, and...lots. Like...upwards of $2-3k. For just the front.

    I just read this and i only spent like 300 bucks for the front.. I did get my front end for 100 and it only needed wheel bearings and seals, and i did all the fab work myself, and the engineering,

    i'm not done mind you , i still need to change gears and get the drive line built but that will come with $$$$

  10. Almost anything will do for a SAS but it depends on how much money you want to spend. If you want to run Nissan motor, tranny and xfer case you have to go ford. If you want leaf springs that makes it easier but don't get a 78 -79 dana 44 the axles tubes are crap..(they are different in these 2 years

    If you want coil springs any F100 will do the axles will be wider but i like that..

    If you want to see some SAS work my web site is..

     

    homegrown4x4

  11. Thank you!

     

    About Terrano-Pathfinder difference

    The primary difference between Terrano and Pathfinder - transmission. All Pathfinders in our club are cars with auto transmission not like Terrano's with manual. Also termostat and visco for fan are tuned for the cold region. And there are many cars from Europe without condition.

     

    Igor

    ah what? no thats not true. Not all pathfinders are automatics.. i own a manual. and the Terrano in australia is a Pathfinder that was imported from japan. As far as all the differences, i can't attest to all of them but they do include but are not limited to, engine, transmission, emission, (recently discover, differential gearing), so on and so forth but for all practical purposes its a Pathfinder

  12. I'm not sure about towing the pathy in particular, but i do know that some vehicled shouldn't be towed, should be towed with the transfer case in Neutral, or the transmission in neutral, it would be wise to double check all this before towing for any distance.

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