Adam
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Posts posted by Adam
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My guess is ecu coolant temp sensor. Cheap to replace, my Auto Zone had one in stock. Have you run your codes yet? It's absurdly easy, follow the how-to in the garage if you haven't...
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Sounds like you could have got bad gas or its pumping to much gas into it...hows the milage?
Mileage seems high, I drove 100+ miles today and burned almost half a tank... Gas is fine, it's where I always get gas, even when I had my 01 BMW 330ci on the road. It's definitely pumping too much, just got to figure out why... Gonna pick up the EGR and the O2 sensor of the junkyard pathy and see if either helps.
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Is the fuel pressure regulator hose on...what colars the smoke(I have dial up and vids wont load)
1.white smoke= head gasket
2.blue smoke=oil getting into the cylinders
3.black smoke=carbine build up and/or bad gas
It's kind of greyish... If it were head gasket, it's also be sweet smelling... I'd also imagine I'd have a compression issue, which I don't. It also doesn't overheat. The emissions results tell me more than enough though.
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What did you use! Did you use berryman or what ever,that stuff is bad,do not use it,use seafoam,MMO or lucas...gumout is ok but the first 3 are the best.
RXP
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Another vid, smoke, and it smells really terribly like fuel, it smells as strong as if I had an open gas can in front of my face
O2 sensor is still my first thought...Is there any way to test the EGR?
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So how much did you spend on the VG33? I'm interested in this swap...
Nevermind, I just read the end of the thread
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I'll be doing a roller paint job on mine pretty soon.
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I just loosened the tensioner as much as I could, so it wasn't putting much of any pressure on the belt, lined up my cams, and lined up my crank, then retightened the tensioner... I found it to be really simple... Got it right first try...
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I was all excited because it threw a new code... so I check it on the how-to... Code 55... No Malfunction...
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Well, an update... idle is still rough... I got it smogged, 10x the limit on hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide. Part of that is likely the fuel system cleaner, I didn't realize it'd have a big effect on emissions, but the other part of the high readout? My guess is o2 sensor, but I don't have any codes to go on anymore, so I don't know if that's bwhere I should start.... any suggestions? And any suggestion on where to get the o2 sensor? Itts quite expensive at auto zone, was much cheaper for our durango's o2...
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I wouldn't say allot of anything just yet....
yes I did set my new speed record, and yes it seems I can use higer gears @ lower RPMs
Like 4th @ 1500rpm (under 35mph) to cruise on flat grade with no groaning or lugging sound unless I try to accelerate too hard.
I'm still messing with timing and it smells rich.
the intake sounds loud enough for me to think theres a hole under the air box so I gotta check all my lines...
all and all Its still too early for solid results but I will keep you posted.
Intake will get louder with cam's, you're drawing in more air, so you're gonna hear it!
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replacing the stock upper control arms let's you crank the torsion bars slightly more for more lift and still maintain some downward travel of the suspension, the tubular design incorporates a different angle where the ball joint sits, which helps in re-aligning the front end. If you crank the torsion bars to get more lift using the stock upper control arms as you raise the front end the control arm get's closer to the bump stop. Once the arm is sitting up against the bump stop you have no downward travel of the suspension, and also raising the front end that much provides a very firm ride.
Makes sense, I guess I need these, I'm on the bump stops
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Pardon me for being new, but what are the benefits of these?
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Gas in the oil could be from a cylinder getting filled with fuel, it's got to go somewhere, and past old piston rings is the most likely place... I just went through replacing my entire fuel rail, and I also found that the connectors were very touchy, I had to bend a few of the pins so they'd make contact with the wiring harness...
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Idle is a tad rough when warmed up. I'm going to fiddle with the throttle position sesnor, and get the timing dialed in just right. Will get inspection, registration, and insurance later this week, and start daily driving it again.
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It runs, flawlessly!!!
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the oily soot is from the recycled exhaust that comes in through the EGR circuit- you can restrict that line a bit but there is a potential for legal consequences or for the CEL to light.
Interesting, doesn't sound like a very well thought out system...Thanks for the info...
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Alright, I got the replacement fuel rails from the boneyard, but one of the injectors isn't working. I'm not sure if maybe theres a bubble in the line, but I'm assuming it's a bad injector... I've still got 2 good injectors on the old rail, so I'd like to replace the bad one with a good one... Question is, how to get them out? Are they pressed in like a bushing? I'm not really sure how to proceed from here, as I couldn't get enough force from my drill press to press them out, so I'm assuming I need to build another contraption to get it going... Any suggestions here?
edit: managed to get it out, not too shabby. Just need to swap out the one in the new rail, and I should be back in business! Gonna finish it all up tomorrow morning.
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I really need to remove the lower intake manifold, and soak the manifolds and TB, they're coated in oily buildup. What would cause oily building to coat the entire inside of the manifold and throttlebody?
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I just verified it's not the wiring by plugging injector 1 and 2's wires into 3 and 5's injectors, no fuel came out of them.
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I think I've figured it out, but I need some confirmation from you guys... I pulled my intake manifold and removed the fuel rail from the engine, put paper towels under the injectors, cranked the engine a few cranks, and found fuel only coming out of cylinders 1 and 2's fuel injectors. Normal operation on starting should obviously be fuel coming from all injectors, correct? I changed the plugs and wires today, and while fooling around, pulled some plugs and saw 0 indication of combustion, they still looked brand new, whereas 1 and 2 had obvious indicators. I confirmed spark was getting to the plugs that were clean, so it's not a spark issue. I'm going to call Auto Zone and see if they can test individual injectors on the Weller machine...
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Aren't those already new?
Spark plugs were, distributor is not, wires are not. Going to do plugs and wires first, then if no change, I'll pick up a boneyard distributor...
I'm also going to try to run some more tests tonight from the how-to section, didn't see the crank angle sensor/ignition portion until this morning.
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Any other ideas? I'm considering doing spark plugs, wires, and distributor this weekend...
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I got the ignition control module tested, it failed every test but one on the Weller machine at Auto Zone... I just bucked up and replaced it, but it didn't resolve anything.
Cant Diagnose This Problem!
in The Garage
Posted
My recent thread has reference to the temp sensor...
Sounds sort of like mine, mines burning fuel like crazy. If you weren't getting a code, you'd probably get the code I get, which is "Code 55", "No Malfunction"... What you need to do is not wait 5 seconds, leave it in diagnostic mode until it blinks a bunch of time, then just turn it just off of diagnostic mode... It'll blink 3 times, and then start to blink out the code... I also found it's easiest to remove the cover of the ECU, so you can see the LED's without having to get in the back seat. I'm going to be changing my O2 Sensor and EGR tomorrow with junkyard parts, hopefully it's my solution. Mines different from yours though, mine runs a little rough at all times, near idle, but runs great off idle. It runs super rich though.