Adam
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Posts posted by Adam
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The worst that can happen is it gets stuck in the filter. Unless of course your filter has holes, then you're pretty screwed. I don't know what it is but if it's magnetic it could be stuck to the magnetic disc attached to the bottom of the pan. Transmission gasket/filter set is cheap at the parts store though, I'd recommend dropping the pan and finding it.
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Me gusta.
Maybe try thinning it a bit for the last coat? That might help with the brush strokes.
Good idea, I'll have to see what kind of thinner it would be able to take. I've got lacquer thinner handy already. Might try some out on a piece of wood to see if it's going to cause a problem first. Was also thinking of picking up a wider roller, the main problem area for streaks has been the hood, everything else has worked out well.
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So the Pathfinder has looked like **** for years... There were some rust spots on the rocker panels that I wanted to fix so I started doing a small strip of rhinoliner along the bottom... When I showed my mom she was like "Can you just do the whole thing?"
Working in sections, first 2 coats on here, will do one more tomorrow to even it out. Going to keep working around the vehicle. I'm also lining the plastic bits since they're terribly faded.
The other side.
The hood, can see some streaking from the roller.
I'm basically roughing up the original finish with 150 grit sandpaper and painting it. I'm using a roller for most of it and a brush in detail areas.
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On the stock intake manifold/fuel rail it's on the very back of the intake manifold... It's hard to see, I had to get up on my radiator core support but you can also feel for it.
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You should first and foremost be checking ALL of your vacuum lines... I had a rough idle and it turned out I actually MISSED one, the one for the fuel pressure regulator... That's kind of a big deal yeah.
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Sounds just like torsion bar to me. Had one go out on the 90 and it was exactly how you described.
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Oh the angle in the first pics made it look like it had side bars, I just now realized it's factory
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What roof rack is that?
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You could try disconnecting the AAC valve (it's the valve in the idle control body that the ECU uses to control the air going in and therefore idle speed). WIth it disconnected the idle should drop to 700 RPM. With it unplugged the ECU will be unable to use any strange sensor information to adjust the idle speed. If the idle is unstable with it unplugged you know you are looking at a certain set of issues. If the idle is good with it unplugged, then you know that the ECU is messing this up, either because it is bad, or because it is being fed bad information by a sensor (e.g. crank angle sensor).
You can unplug the AAC valve at the valve itself, which is inconvenient because it's under the plenum, or at the connection on top of the passenger valve cover. It should be the only connector with only two wires there.
Just wanted to bump this to say that this helped me today. My idle has been too high and I haven't been able to pass emissions. Disconnecting this got my idle down low enough that I finally passed
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I've been having issues with the way my Pathfinder has been running for a couple of years (it's been parked for a year of that) and today I finally figured out what it was. It all started with replacing 3 of my injectors with some from the junkyard. Obviously this means I had to remove the intake manifold and the fuel rail. When I got it all back together it ran again but had a misfire so I did a standard tuneup, new rotor, wires, spark plugs, etc. None of that fixed it all the way and it always had a poor idle, a misfire, and low on power.
So I was getting ready to do the fuel pump and an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. I reach around the back of the intake manifold and realize the vacuum line is completely missing for the fuel pressure regulator. Vacuum leak plus the fuel pressure not being correct explains a lot. I do still have a slight miss though, going to do the distributor cap Wednesday (ordered a Bosch cap from Amazon) so hopefully that fixes it.
Moral of the story, check your vacuum lines thoroughly!
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What's going on with this build? Been a while since it was updated. Have you used VE Analyzer at all? I've heard it's worth every penny.
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And now that that's done my Pathfinder is back on the road! Haven't driven it since it broke in October 2010 other than around the block.
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Answered my own question with Google Image Search, not surprisingly something posted on here:
I wasn't aware of how exactly it was supposed to go together inside of the transmission so now that I know it should be straight forward.
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I've been having an issue with my 90 Pathfinder where the transmission is stuck in gear and doesn't cycle further than 2nd gear when in drive... So I dropped the valve body to replace the gaskets and generally check up on it but I'm getting a bit tripped up here... The manual valve sits in a passage and seems to just sit in there freely... When I look at the lower half of the valve body there seems to be a spot for a retainer pin, as seen here:
But it's not mentioned in the FSM, though it's specifically drawn in the diagram... I've combed through and I don't think I'm missing anything but I don't want to put this together wrong :confused:
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Nope, no clue whose that is, didn't even meet the person who owns that lot, the guy I bought the car from was friends with the guy, and kept it on his lot.
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I've got an 86 BMW 325e that I've been working on. Found it out in a field, body is pretty straight besides one fender. Picked it up for $500, non-running, though it could technically run. I wasn't interested in it for its engine though. I had a 2001 BMW 330ci for a few years, and because BMW designed the rear subframe mounts poorly(class action settlement is supposed to cover them), mine ripped out, BMW said no-go, I got tired of fighting with them, ripped out the motor and trans, and started gutting the 325e. The 330's engine is a 225hp 3.0l in it's current form, 10.2:1 compression I believe. I'm going to be rebuilding the 3.0, either using lower compression pistons or a thicker head gasket, and I'm going to be turboing it. The engine is currently at my mechanic's, had to use an oil pan from a early 90s 525i because of the location of the front subframe on the 86, so my mechanic is making a custom oil pickup tube to work with the new oil pan. I'll be running a modified Garret GT30R turbo(seen here, goal will be 400rwhp out of the old 86. I'll be running the engine on an OBD1 ECU, and having it tuned locally for the turbo.
The 86 turned out to be more of a deal than I expected as well, because it has the Getrag 260 transmission that makes for the best swap transmission(and the trans was behind a motor that couldn't go over 5000rpm, so it's got 143k on it, but with only 120hp and low torque it should have minimal wear) so I don't have to use the high mileage ZF transmission from my 330. The car also came with a limited slip rear diff, instead of open diff, meaning I saved some 300-400 depending on gearing. I'll be rebuilding the diff with a different gearset, as it's only 2.93:1, I'll probably be going 3.25 or 3.46. Some pics of the carnage:
The 86 in the field I found it in
Under hood, don't need that paperweight!
This is the hole where the rear subframe mount on my 330 used to be... That hole is 8" wide, and about 5-6k to repair the damage properly, which is almost the value of the car.
Engine out of the 86
Engine out of the 01
86 in its new home in the garage, which is also the home of my wood shop, I build guitars on the side.
Under the valvecover on the 01's engine:
Looks brand new, hard to believe there's 150k on that engine, compared to the Pathfinder's 200k engine that's completely covered in brown oily residue.
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I just priced the VG33 locally, I'm gonna have the money on the 1st, so I think I'm going to go ahead and do the VG33E swap. Can get one for 600-750 locally, and I'll keep watching between now and the 1st for a better deal.
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No change today, looks like manual swap will be a lock, if I can't sort out my GI Bill money soon, I'll be able to start the swap the 1st of next month. Won't need my vehicle most of this month, so I'm alright without right now.
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Have you tried putting a 5-speed in between the engine and transfer case? That solved all my autotragic tranny problems.
But seriously,
Try to get in touch with Barry(NissanNut) he lives close-by you and he's the only person I know of that has really dug into one of our auto-tranny's just for information reasons. He is usually found on nissantrailriders.com
I'm running some Seafoam trans flush through it right now, if this doesn't resolve it, I'm going 5 speed swap. I've already sourced the parts locally, can have the trans for around 350-400.
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Well, my first guess would be an issue with the linkage. I'm not an auto tranny pro so my only suggestion is that you go to the Garage section, download the FSM for the 94 model and follow the auto tranny diagnostic procedure that is defined. It might not give you the answer but it could rule things out or give ideas of what may have happened. Besides, it's free and can be done right away.
B
Tried that just now, that was beyond confusing, and I couldn't get anything of value from trying it. Can't put the shifter in D in ACC mode, it's locked.
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Someone else on another forum said it sounds like theres something in the system that's clogging up one of the valves. Suggested running a solvent through it to flush out the system, then replace the filter and the fluid...
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I've been in cars that would down shift when you lift off the gas,and others that wouldnt shift out of a gear,but I've never heard of this.So I'm sorry but I cant be of any help.Will it start if you shut it off?If so its not stuck in drive or anything.But this is the basics,check the shift linkage(you have the floor mounted RE4R01A) and the throttle wire.
It'll start fine when put in Park, though it's still in gear, it's just locked by the parking lock. Like I said, linkage is working properly.
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This morning started out fairly normal. I replaced my valve cover gaskets, my intake manifold gasket(between the upper manifold and the plenum), and my throttlebody gasket. Those solved ALL of my rough running issues, as well as my terrible oil leak... So I take it driving around, and it's running beautifully, it's got more power, etc. 20 minutes into my drive, I notice it won't go into neutral or reverse. It's stuck in Drive right now. When it's in Park, it won't free-rev, it stops around 1500, where the clutches provide resistance... When I drive it, I have to use 1 and 2, if I put it in D or any other position, it will accelerate up to where I've got the gas pressed, then when I back off the gas it tries to downshift, I'll be doing 45-50 and it'll try to downshift to first, revs will jump to redline, until I put it back into 2nd. Any ideas? I recently installed a transmission cooler as well, and I towed a Volvo 240DL across DFW for a friend of mine, with no issues.
Trans was replaced before the previous owner sold me the vehicle, and I've cracked open the trans pan and it still looks brand new under there, so I don't really have a reason to doubt that it's got a fresh trans.
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The maf ground wire fixed most of the weather problem. I still have random misfires, but they were never weather related.
Dropped striking lever bushing into transmission
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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I was assuming auto since you didn't specify and most Pathfinders are auto... And because I don't know what this thing you dropped in is haha