JoeBob

so i just got some manual locking hubs from warn and... installation went just fine.. jacked it up.. locks... unlocks.. just fine (is it supposed to have a little play btw?)... and... i took it for a test drive just to see if alls well and......... my brakes lose almost all pressure..... put my foot down till it hits the bottom and i slowly slow down... wtf... what does that have ANYTHINg to do with the hubs.. so i did a u turn to go back into my parking spot.. and as im turning fully to the left i hear a nasty grinding coming from the left tire.. sounds like the breaks all right.. get out.. look at it.. dont see anything irregular. and even after the turn it continues to grind driving strait. it stops the grinding after i turn a bit more... so i also noticed that if i go in reverse.. and pump the brakes, the brakes go back to normal only if i stay in reverse. if i go forward again the brakes lose pressure again... so anyone know wtf? was i supposed to put the snap ring back on after? didnt say so in the instructions.. take off off washer B [with the teeth], washer A [no teeth], and brake B. Was i supposed to take off the lock washer and the wheel bearing lock nut? thanks joebob

lol ex girlfriend!!!!!!!! damn her but yeah... i think im gonna leave it how it is till i have a little more time to change it... im pretty sure it has a 1 year warranty and thats not up till september eh heh

So i discovered last weekend that my inner CV boot on the driver side has torn open... again.. and i replaced the whole axel less than a freaking year ago. So I took a closer look this morning and its weird.. its torn in 3 places.. not all the way around like the first time the boots tore. There are 3 about 1 inch long slits in it.. about the same spot seemingly evenly spaced around the boot.. and they are parallel to the axel. So im not sure what to think.. i thought i hit it with the powerwasher after the run down to pismo but 3 times? evenly spaced? you guys think its a defect in the part? i know what you want to say.. "pictures".. but i dont think you will really be able to make anything out with me using my cell phone camera

ack... i swear i keep seeing these things that make me feel like i should change those fluids too.. sooooo lazy.. later this week ill do it hopefully

if i have the calmini UCAs will i still need to get longer bolts? Shouldn't the aftermarket UCAs fix the adjustment problem to not require longer bolts? Shouldnt that be part of the reason to get new UCAs?? or is it just AC that decided not to account for this problem? Reason i ask is cause im installing the calmini replacement steering system tomorrow and need to have it alligned on friday cause im driving down to SLO tomorrow.. dont know if i can get these bolts by then heh

i also used the redline fluid and i would be concerned with driving around with only 2.4 qrts when it should be 5 qrts =o yes it will start to spill out the fill hole trying to put in 5 qrts.. when I changed my fluid i put it through the shifter knob.. its really not that hard. there is lots of stuff about this in the garage section

i like calmini.. a lot of my suspension parts are from them and work great. its on the page with the 3" lift coils... sneaky

the four holes on top not connected to the panhard rod wouldnt fit.. with the panhard rod disconnected entirely.. i just grinded the hole.. im pretty sure the top bolt is just for keeping the bracket upright. I bought the ilder arm brace from them too and that also didnt fit >< that i had to send back becuase there was a big piece of metal welded to the frame so i couldnt even get the holes close to where they were supposed to be : / and yes calmini sells the bracket alone.

i got their bracket to drop down the panhard rod and the top holes do not line up i guess i could grind teh hole bigger but how important is the upper bolt?

k sounds like its supposed to be there.. mines a 92.. if you havent touched teh air filter box and not sureif you even have it then you probably do hehe.. cant see it from the engine.. its hidden in the fender.. was annoying to get off but im definatly putting it back on.. that noise is still droning through my head ><

the noise coming from mine only comes from the intake.. i looked under there briefly but didnt see or hear anything... its kinda weird.. sometimes after driving a little it will sound muffled.. and just now after driving for like 5 minutes it sounded muffled at like 1500 rpms but when it got up to like 3000 rpms it would become louder and higher pitch.. its odd.. also it seems to depend on the throttle position.. it will slow to a stop if i let off the gas and once i press on the pedal it starts whistling at a certain amount of pressure of the pedal.. arg

so i took off the intake silencer box thingy and once i did that i hear a whisling noise coming from inside the intake box.. if i cover the hole from where the silencer box was it becomes quieter.. so it could have been there before too. I can hear it best when put it up to 1500 rpms or so if i go higher it gets quieter but its always on the same pitch. idle it gets very quiet.... soooo leak?? i really dont know.. thanks! joebob

kk will do... my friend thinks it might be my bearings going out.

hmmm... actually when i think about it, it is really hard to move it into 1st gear sometimes.. but i dont notice that when the whine happens. Recently the clutch all of sudden felt a bit softer.. but wasnt anything big.. it never was bad or anything. When i went to tahoe my truck didnt want to accellerate going up hill. But on flat ground it accelerates just fine. And no i dont smell anything weird. Say i do find metal flakes in the fluid.. what should i do?

I doubt its ever been replaced.. i just bought it last summer and its at 185k miles. I'm gonna change teh trans fluid this weekend. How do i tell if it is something in the transmission?

im reposting this from the manual transmission sticky thread so something is giving me a hum noise (thought it was just the wind at first O.o) only in 3rd gear at about 35-40.. then when i push in the clutch it stops and starts again when i go into 4th and stops at like 45 mph... I also noticed that it seems to only happen in the morning going to school and its usualy pretty cold outside. And it stops doing it after 5 or 10 minutes of driving. And it stays one pitch... i dont think how much i push down the gas pedal affects the noise. And I have dont know where its coming from except its somewhere in the front of me ( i think could be wrong since its really hard to tell) thanks all, joebob

ill repost this on the garage forum i guess =o

so something is giving me a hum noise (thought it was just the wind at first O.o) only in 3rd gear at about 35-40.. then when i push in the clutch it stops and starts again when i go into 4th and stops at like 45 mph... i guess its not the same thing since it happens in 4th? either way im going to change my trans fluid.. just want to know what this whine is heh.

ok sounds good ill get both ^^ thx a lot

ok.. so how necessary is it to get the new UCA's?

so is it actually the torsion bars that do the height adjusting? and the UCA's just provide correct ball joint angles so that it doesnt put pressure on it the wrong way right? soooooo if i dont want to replace parts i should get both the T bars and the UCA's so i have correct ball join angles so things wont wear down?

hey everyone.. this guy is selling his calmini UCA's and torsion bars and ive been talking to him about it. He suggests that i dont want the full 3" lift from the UCA's and that i might just want to get the torsion bars and crank them up a little and his reasoning is partly because he didnt like the full 3" of lift. He said that the lift puts the UCA's too close to the bump stops and causes loss of traction when driving on bumpy rocks and such... do you guys think that it is worth the loss of traction to have the higher lift?? thx joebob

I need to replace my timing belt sometime soon.. but my mechanic said that with this type of engine if the timing belt broke.. the engine would be ok.. but after hearing what happened to you two would it be safer to replace it now?