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NWT87PATHY

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Posts posted by NWT87PATHY

  1.  

    Hey NWT87PATHY

     

    I think you've a error on the 00- 04 engines. They're not LT1's (which are 93-97 production years). The other LT1's are the new version LT1's coming out with the IROC and Vette

     

    00-04 are LS based engines, and one has to be careful as the earlier 4L60E trans changed late 90"s (not sure exactly what year), but a early 4L60E will not bolt directly to a LS based engine, and a newer 4L60E will require a adapter to bolt to a earlier SBC or 93-97 LT1.

     

     

    Your absolutely right!, ive spent so much time on www.LT1swap.com i'm cross eyed.. But anywho the diffrence between the earliest 4l60&80 and ls based trans castings is the top most right bell bolt has no thread hole on the block.. And the gen3&4 crank is like .200 shorter so the stock torque converter is to short and the hub isn't supported with it fully engaged into the pump. An easy fix with a place like Advanced adaptors around, I have a 89 Th400 on a 09 LH6 5.3. It required a dished flexplate with a "hub" extension ring to support the converter. For simplicity i allways recommend a Vacuum Modulated trans. 700r4 with a TV cable is ok for Gen3 with the cable throttle i suppose.. OD is really nice with 5.3's, but i just swaped out the 3.73's for 2.83's now im doing 100mph at about 2200 rpm in my 55.

    Advanced adaptors also have all the rigging to re do the input on any np205 to match what yah need.

  2. Well if you go with a 2000-2004 LT1 6.0/5.3/4.8 they are cable throttled, you can basically put any trans behind it you want. Depending if you want to do the swap your self or got deep pockets.. You need to be electricity experienced to do the swap. Its really simple... their is a pin out online that covers all gen 3 and 4 ecm's to make the factory engine harness standalone.. All post 89 trans missions are driverside drop tcases. So you can keep stock running gear if you wish. Would just have to get shafts made up.. Not that bad. As far as transmissions go any transmission made for a v8 chev will bolt up to the block. Need to be careful and have the right flex plate or the stock 4l60e or 4l80e what ever engine you choose will run standalone with the engine no problem.. But if you like grabbing gears you could opt to find a nv3500 a sm465 or a rock crusher. All really good tranny's for light application, they both accept np205 tboxes or what ever chain box you want..

  3. Try unhooking or disabling it..

     

    Fast Idle Control Device (FICD)-

    This device actuates a fast idle cam based on coolant temperature flowing thru it. The temperature at which the fast idle cam eases off can be set by the FICD Adjuster. The fast idle cam pushes on the fast idle lever and how much this lever adjusts the idle is controlled by the Fast Idle Screw.

     

    Fast Idle Screw-

    Head points skyward and is often mistaken for the normal Idle Screw. When the engine is cold the âfast Idle Camâ increases the idle for faster warm-up. This screw sets the fast idle speed which should be between 1,000-1,200 rpm set depending on how cold your climate is.

  4. Exactly. and the IAC is for the warm up and in the 80's it was a mercury thermo switch for kick down or in the fashion of a electric choke. My suggestion is to back all the screws off and get a base line idle then dial it in to smooth 6-700 rpm. TBI is basicly a carburetor that uses the O2,water temp and MAP to adjust it's own A/F ratio. Easy stuff compared to the 2bar speed density VE tables i tune LS1's with..lol

  5. I dont think timing can be a issue. The dizzy cant be adjusted as far as i know.. And if its off a tooth it wont run. Could be a botched timing belt job but it would be un driveable and you would have bent valves. I wonder if the idle set screw has been monkey'd with? If it shows signs of it start backing off the screws on the TB and trial and error untill you get a stable idle. Also a nasty vacuum leak could cause idle problems bit not WOT at start up...check if the hose on the back of the frying pan (filter housing) is hooked up and all the vac lines are in good shape. Electro port engines are pretty basic fuel/air operations like chevy TBI only so manythings to go wrong.. Generaly if its not a Air issue its a fuel problem.

  6. Do the 2 and 4 doors have the same wheel base? If they do then that cab swap should be a piece of piss.. And if i was going through the trouble of doing the inner fenders i would invest and a spotweld drill takes about 1 1/2 hours to get them off and about 4-5 hours to get them back on and have all the body lines match up.

    I kind of ran out of warm snowless weather last season. So in a few weeks here ill pull the finder out of hiding and carve the cab off the frame at the perches and glue the cab perches to the chevy frame. Then a couple weekends of wiring and probably switching to a 4 link in the back ill have the pathfinderado.. So hopefully by july ill be rockin the trails and ashphault. Pics and write up to tag along with it.. Good luck everyone with your projects!

  7. I have pictures somewhere, man...times have changed.

     

    I am still a toys r us kid, but I had to eventually grow up some...

     

    Hahaha

    Been a lot of slacking in the finder department!

    Right in the middle of a retro modern gmc build

    36 inch frame chop 08 Silverado

    KIMG0068_zpsx0buhd4r.jpg

     

    08 lh6 5.3 with th400. Homemade standalone harness

    KIMG0071_zpslaiqda1x.jpg

     

    55 1300 series sheet metal,97 k1500 step side box

    KIMG0078_zps56pun0mw.jpg

     

    Then again I may just sas the finder with dana 60's and plum a vortec 6l with a sm465/np206 combo.

     

    Because I got my hands on a 49 willies cab, hood and grill. So I'm looking at chop top willies rat rod with that Silverado stuff

     

     

    Sent from my E6560C using Tapatalk

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