513yj

i brought home about the same thing and had the same running status runs funny lacks power and all that. i replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and still nothing. the problem was it was out of time and with a simple 10 mm bolt on the dizzy, turn it while running and see what happens, mine looked unfooled around with but it runs great now.

that little thing my 258 oilpan was pushed up twice as far and didn't make any noise but it leaked like a seive on the bolt surface area.

well i put in 80-90 and i have an lsd in the back but i haven't added the stuff to make it slip easier yet. but i only drove it to the side of my shop.

anyone know what goes in the x-fer case on an 88 path 3.0 auto. i drained out 80-90 and wasnt sure if that was right.

what year is it? i have an 88 and you pull up on the drivers door lock twice and it releases.

kid down the road has 33 growlers on his big a$$ed loud a$$ed chebby, they growl on the road a little, but they still looka lika theya be holding up to kid abuse(brake torques, squeal tires around every corner or else, 75 mph in a 45 etc. etc.)

mr. tire and pomps tires here do it and we are in the piddly population area in the u.p. normally a local tire shop should have a machine that does it i think. try yellow pages uneder tires and call the best looking ones like pomps tire or mr tire, not bobs tires or or hillbilly tire service or scottys tire and muffler.

the best way to weld a diff will shock you. all you need is a bunch of lead wheel weights an a torch. this won't work with open cage carriers but with that hb233 pic it will. you have to remove the carrier and clean it out with brake cleaner. then put the axle shafts in or you will hate the world when they wont go later. next rotate the carrier till a hole is at the top. then grab some weights with a pair of pliers by the metal holder and melt them in as many as you can fit. you need to hold the torch close to the hole and make sure the lead flows in good. keep rotating to the next hole and the next and so on till it is chuck full of lead. this will prevent the spiders from spinning and thus creating a full locker, but the bonus is lead is softer than steel so if a piece breaks off and gets into the ring and pinion it wont hurt it as weld chunks will. i did this to my 14 bolt 8 years ago and it still works great. i've done it to a lot of other peoples and they all work great. i never had any big parts fall loose but i think if it ever did you could heat it up and refill it to make it locked again. oh yeah don't breathe in the fumes, i haven't but i could just imagine

nothing wrong with procomps, ran 33x12.50 on a stock comanche for 2 years in solid rocks and they are great, suck in snow and noy the best in mud though. to clarify the swamper part, tsl and tsl radials might wear a little fast but tsl-ssr's don't they are 3 totally different tires with 2 totally different purposes, and as i said a bro runs them on his yj and the majority 65-75 percent of the time it is on road on the highway at 65 mph and he's had them 3 years now. i had a set of tsl radials for 1 year on my 2500 chevy and they wore fast, pretty sure tsl bias ply will too. my yj is 95 percent rocks and has 36-13.5 iroks for the past year and i havent driven more than 500 miles on the road and they look like new yet minus rock rash. but for 75 percent on road can't touch mtr's for all conditions rain, snow, ice, mud, rocks as i ran them on my old rig and that was a 50-50 on and off road deal and i will give them an A+. just my nickel.

no they will not my buds yj has the ssr's as i think those are by the pic, and they are like stones. they don't wear very fast and suck the left one off road as well. normal tsl's and tsl radials are good off road but wear faster on road. a good alternative if ya got deep pockets are pro comp mt's, good both ways and also my personal favorite wrangler mtr's. i had a couple sets of bfg's and they aren't nearly as good as the couple sets of mtr's i had. the mtr's don't really wear out much faster either and would be my recommended tire for both usages.

usually not idling means 2 things, not enough fuel pressure or vacuum leak city. first thing i'd do is fuel pressure test, then compression test it so you get a better idea if the timing belt is off or not. it won't be the same compression if it is, although i have seen it where the cam lobes were torn off too and it had compression cause the valves weren't opening. you still could have compression if it's only one tooth off, but usually it will not be proper. if all this works fine then get a rubber hose and start listening around all the hoses and gasket mounting surfaces for air leaks, it will be a hissing sound.

jb weld only sticks to your pants

first thing i would do is pull off the tire, take of the caliper and spin the wheel of fortune. then you should be able to tell if there is noise or not. if it don't sound right then wiggle the rotor up and down, left and right to check for play. if there is play then something is botched in the bearings. wtf is that greenstuff? and where did ya put it, on the pad backing plate or friction surface? i've put on 300,000 pads and rotors and never used such a thing, but i have seen yellow and blue junk for making them quiet that is used on the backing. as far as the torquing of the nut, i've never done my path yet but i've done everything else under the sun from quads to forwarders and i've never torqued anything, but this really isn't proper. i've never had any problems with hammer and screwdriver and gentle strong spin so it turns one revolution and viola, yar done. like i said this is not proper but i havent had any problems. my bet without more info or without hearing it is that you have braking issues, maybe greenstuff is on friction surface and is the noise reducer for the backing so its the culprit?

pro comp 3000?