Lunartic

Hi there fellas? Does anyone know of an aftermarket store in Ontario other than Nissan that could possibly supply me with A/C parts? I'm needing a drier/receiver and a TXV valve. And has anyone here ever changed a TXV valve. I can see it in front of the evap. but wondering about the removal steps as I cannot find it in the shop manual. It looks like its going to be a SH--TY job>>> Regards... Blair...

Hi guys. She ran like a charm 2day after starting it 3 times or more ... Each way to work. But dunno. I've changed tb sensor, cleaned map sensor, changed 02 sensor, cleaned intake, plugs, filters (them all) yadda, yadda, yadda. 360000k shes still strong and getting rubber down but thats after I get it to run good. What eother sensor? I've gone over them all i think. If it was the gas pump would it not have quit like 20000 or so back when this crap started? Wondering?

Yes. It run's like a charm when it's going right. But if not it will kinda smell of rotten fuel. Sometimes it takes 2/3 starts to correct it. There is no error codes coming up on the ECU when it runs like that.

I have an intermettent starting problem when starting the 95, but only once in a while. See when I start it I go to rev it a bit and it feels like its running on 4-5 cyls. I then turn off the key and start it again. Sometimes it starts properly and sometimes it starts like crap. Usually lately when I start it i have been reving it up just a bit to see how it runs. If it spurts like i was saying, I'll try again until it clears itself. What the HECK is going on with my truck. I got a used ECU from a 1994 pathy and was wondering if that my be the problem and was wondering if they are generic between the two years 1994-1995, cause they sure look the same. Thanks guys. Regards. Blair...

Ok guys here it is. I had changed the oil and replaced it with 5w30 as well to top it up I used this stuff here in Ont. called CD2Maxx a detergent oil cleaner. Then I used some Lucas fuel treatment to a tank and gave her a good hard run and it went away after about 150k. >>> Dunno :confused: maybe carbon built up in and around the hydraulic lifters. Thanks for the ideas fellas......

REALLY>>> I've been using this Castrol GTX 5w 30 for years and never heard of that. It seems to go away then its back at another time.

Hi and thanks for the reply When I start it up it is there and seems to go away when I bring it up to about 2500rpm or maybe it is that I can't hear it now with a loud engine. After i drive it for about 40 minutes or so ita little louder, but still there and like I say, it seems to go away when i rev it up but comes back @ about 1300rpm then idles down to about 750/800rpm and idles fine but with this ticking sound. It's for sure in the rocker area drivers side as I tried the ole screwdriver to the ear trick.

1995 Pathfinder 350000 kms. and runs like a charm>>> until today! Driving to work in this lousey weather that we are having right now when I got to a stop sign half way to work,( driving 30 miles ). I heard a ticking sound coming from engine compartment. It seems to get a little louder at an idle, and when I speed up it sounds like it goes away because it sounds like its ticking increases as rpm increases but disappears. Please fellas and ideas would be much appreciated. :help:

Thanks 88... Just went out on the snowy roads and climbed a small hill. Everything works great... TY Go Easy Boys...

Was wondering if someone could tell me what harm if any happens if you have your manual hubs set to LOCK position and having the transfer case in 2WD? And vice versa, if you had the hubs set to FREE and the the t-case set to 4x4? I have just purchased a set of Warn hubs and was wondering if there were any answers to this? I have just broke the second freewheeling clutch thing in the autohub on the same side. I was not even 4x4ing. :confused: Here's a pic of it, and when this breaks when you slow down you hear the other side trying to clik into 4x4 even when your not calling it on. So i'm trying these out for a go.

<<<KOOL>>> RIGHT!!!

Oh ya >>> Well what the hell is an Ital tuneup -argue- ??? I just gave it the ole Canadian tuneup in September plugs, wires, filters, oh and rebuilt the starter.

Did the code test and came up with code 55. I cleared the ecm and it seems to be running better but any ideas what was limiting this before? I didn't change a thing.

I will be doing a code check later today for sure. As for the defroster and A/C. When I turn the lever to the defroster the A/C does not turn on. Mine only turns on when I press the A/C button in and the green light comes on and the engine will lag a little, but only then does the compressor run.

No I think that something has gone south on me as this was not the case last week. Im usually getting almost 500k/tank but less then 4 now and have not changed my tire size yet... And not using the defroster.

What would be the cause of me loosing about 80 miles/tank of gasoline. Its really wierd but would a bad O2 sensor be the cause? How do I go about checking or testing this device? :help: This is already bad on gas, but 400k to a tank??? What happened?

Thanks for the help again. I was looking through the vac lines and came across the line at the firewall centre, a black tube that is connected to the intake and connected to the fuel line rail. I took it off and the end of the hose that is plugged on to the intake was pluggedfull of BLACK @%!@. Well I cleaned it out with a small drill bit and now it's a good...

Are all six injectors generic? And are 1994 and 1993 injectors the same? Can they be used in a 95?

Can you clean out old injectors with air pressure and cleaner or are they a sealed unit?

Hi there guys. Just sometimes when I start the truck it seems to run on 4/5 cyls. then I shut it off. Then I start it up again and it's good. There's no codes been stored, and all vac lines have been checked. A little while ago it did the same thing and codes reported injector circuit. Ok, but when I restart it>>> trouble light goes away and runs like a charm>>> like there was not problem at all. And last year ECU reported failed injector.I never changed nothing as I checked all injectors and all were good. Truck is still running ok with no loss in mpg only when it starts like crap. Its there for 2/3 starts sometimes.

A little trick I was taught back some time ago. Start you vehicle and get a little mist bottle or spray bottle of water and set it to lightly mist. As you spray it around the wires in the dark and around places where the sparkplug cables are near to or touching. But don't pour a lot of water, just keep misting it. Look closely you will see the little blue arcs if they are shorting. or try rubbing a grounded probe along the length of each plug wire while the engine is idling may help you find any weak spots in the insulation. Heres a little article for you. http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/yo...20030801pw.html Have fun and good luck.

Compressor was shutting off before I had changed the fan clutch, because of the lack of cooling provided by the fan. It was free wheeling. It was worn out so I got a new one. The cooling was great through the ducts before I changed the fan clutch but was shutting off the compressor because compressor termo was opening with temp increase of engine temp due to lack of air. Now after I had pressures checked it is not shutting down because it is not cooling as well as before. Maybe frozen but don't think so. Going to get the evaporator box open tomorrow and have a good look in there and make darn sure its clean and not freezing.

:help: I though I would start a new thread regarding this. Hi there again fellas, sorry to be a pain>>> but after I had this a/c unit pressure tested and then got a new fan clutch, it seemed to be running ok. But now I can tell that it is not cooling as well as it was when I brought it in to be serviced. The fella said it was overcharged but not too much. So he drained the r134 then pressure tested then vacuum pumped it and then put back in the proper amount of r134 again. He even said that it is not as cold as it should be! When I left there it was in the evening and it was cooling good but could be better. IS THERE A PROBLEM WITH MY TXV VALVE OR A PRESSURE REGULATOR BECAUSE HE SAID THAT THE HOLES IN THE VALVE ARE PLUGGED? Is that possible and is this true??? DAMN it's hot today!!! :furious:

:help: Hi there again fellas, sorry to be a pain>>> but after I had this a/c unit pressure tested and then got a new fan clutch, it seemed to be running ok. But now I can tell that it is not cooling as well as it was when I brought it in to be serviced. The fella said it was overcharged but not too much. So he drained the r134 then pressure tested then vacuum pumped it and then put back in the proper amount of r134 again. He even said that it is not as cold as it should be! When I left there it was in the evening and it was cooling good but could be better. IS THERE A PROBLEM WITH MY TXV VALVE OR A PRESSURE REGULATOR BECAUSE HE SAID THAT THE HOLES IN THE VALVE ARE PLUGGED? Is that possible and is this true??? DAMN it's hot today!!! :furious:

Got it done. It was a little high on the pressure so the guy evacuated the system and had it set up. Then when it was idling there for him about 8 min or so in the heat >>> it quit, the compressor that is. Thermostat was at 3/4 or so. He grabbed the fan with a rag with no problem he said the used fan clutch I get was also pooched, so I wentt back and got another used one today. And guess what? She's not shutting down anymore. Well for now that is. See the thermostat on the compressor was doing its job and shutting it down from the lack of the air flow. The fan clutches were free wheeling. But not now. Thanks again fellas. NOW :cool2: ING WELL Regards Blair.....