Yendor

That's what I forgot to do. Thanks. I just disconnected the neg. battery terminal.

I think I got it right this time, as I get 3 red flashes followed by 3 green flashes. That's the code for the O2 sensor, which I just replaced. What else do I have to look at?

My check engine light is going on and off, so I tried to pull the codes according to the how to. What I'm getting is both lights going off. 1 long flash, then 2 long flashes, then 3 quick flashes, then 4 quick flashes and then 5 quick flashes. The pattern then repeats. Do I read these as 5 separate codes?

Thanks for all the tips. I finally found the leak tonight. It was hard to see, as the distributor cover is in the way. There is a rubber line about 4 inches long connecting the 2 fuel rails. The clamps were pretty loose and I could see gas dripping. I tightened both clamps up and took it for a drive. No gas smell! Now I wonder if they had to take this line apart to do any of the timing belt, water pump or the crank and cam shaft seals. If so, the mechanic could have forgotten to tighten them. Also, would this fuel leak cause a cel?

I had the timing belt, water pump and a new rad put in last week. After that I would get the occasional gas smell in the cabin and I get a CEL that comes on and off at random. Though it seems to come on less now. Now today when I started it up for the drive home from work, I got a really strong gas smell in the cabin. When I got home, I checked under the hood and I couldn't see anything and all I could smell was gas. Now is there anything that is touched when doing the timing belt, water pump and rad that would produce a gas smell and/or CEL? Since I didn't have these problems before, I'm thinking they missed something.

I drove home from work with the AC off and guess what. No surging! I never thought the the ac would cause that. Now to find out why there is delay in my tranny.

I just changed the tranny fluid a couple of months ago and added a tranny cooler last month. My fluid still looks pink and doesn't have a burnt smell. I don't have auto climate control, but I do have the A/C on. So that's just the compressor kicking in when stopped? I've never experienced any of this in my car which is a manual.

I have a 95 auto and I'd like to know what's kind of going on here. When shifting from any gear to drive, it takes about 3-4 seconds before it engages. Also when it's shifting from 1st to 2nd, it's a rough shift. It's very smooth to all the other gears though. Lastly, when I'm stopped at a stop light I just step on the brake and leave it in drive while I wait for the light to change. Every once in a while when I waiting, I'll feel the truck surge just a little. I didn't think this is normal. Could this be the beginning of the end?

why did you have to order a new speed sensor?

Looking at this page on 4x4parts.com https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=367_266_350 Other than the Thorleys, who makes the other headers? $500 seems a bit much.

Jack up the passenger side front tire and you can see where it connects through the wheel well.

I got it fixed at the dealer today. $404.04 OUCH! There was a short behind the fuse box and there was a melted wire that was running by the exhaust manifold on the passenger side. Everything seems to be fine now. Tomorrow the EGR valve gets replaced.

I thought of that too, but then wouldn't it have happened right away? The fuse started blowing when I went back to get to reattach a loose wire, wiched out to be for the oil sending unit. So they told me. Now it gets worse. Before I was able to replace the meter fuse and she would start. I did it today and it wouldn't start. I'll try jumping it when my wife gets home from work. All I get is one click from the fuse panel area.

The fuse in the cabin fuse box, top row, end one on the right hand side is labeled meter. That's why I called it the meter fuse. It's not for one specific meter. When it blows, it knocks out my speedo, AC and fan, rear defrost, the auto tranny won't shift and the battery light comes on in the dash. Since this all started after my visit to the dealer, it's got to be something that they did when reconnecting the line for the oil sending unit, but when I disconnected the wire, it still happens. Since it seems to blow when I am going over a bump, maybe there is something stuck in there causing a short. Someone's gotta have info on this.

I'm still getting to know my Pathfinder after only a week and a half of ownership. I went to the dealer and had the tranny and coolant flushed, along with an oil change. After I got home, I could smell oil burning. I checked under the hood and it looks like the service person spilled oil everywhere when changing the oil filter. I also noticed a loose wire that had an orange rubber cap. I took it back to the dealer the next day and they cleaned all the oil up and reattached the wire. (it was from the oil sending unit, just above the starter.) On the way home though, my meter fuse blew. I put in another one, same thing. It seems like it happens when I go over a bump and I thought it might have something to do with the wire from the oil sending unit, so I disconnected it again and it still blows. Now is it just a coincidence or does this have something to do with anything the dealer did? It was just reconnecting a wire. How could they screw that up? And why would it still blow after I disconnect the wire again? Could someone please point me in the right direction?