4x4le
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Posts posted by 4x4le
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The rsx are struts, the rs 5000 and rs9000 are the shocks for the rear. The oem coils do seem to degrade and sag reletavly early on r50s compared to other vehicles, so you may have bad coils. The shocks are probably bad too. It isnt that hard to install coils so you may just want to get the rs9000 shocks because they have 9 adjustment settings and see if you can get a comfertable ride without bottoming out or having to get new coils. If you decide you need new coils you can always go back and get them. All you have to do to install them is jack your truck up as high as you can form the rear diff and put jack stands under the frame. Disconnect the 2 bolts on each side that connect the sway bar and disconnect the 1 nut on each side that mounts the shock to the axle. Lower the rear axle to the ground. You may need to take off the rear wheels to get it to the ground closer depending how much you jacked it up and how tall your jack stands are. Pull out the old coils and put in new coils. Jack the rear diff back up enough so you can reconnect everything and jack it up further so you can take it off the stands. Lower it down and your done.
The reason I wrote out the process was so you see that it isnt hard and to show you that its not like your doing the same process over just to go back later and add coils if you decide you need them too.
Changing the shocks only require the removal of 2 nuts and the shock, the installation on the new shock and the 2 nuts. It dont need to be jacked up. I can do it in like 5 minutes and the longest part is getting the tools and putting them back up. Changing the rear coils will take about 1/2hour regardless if you change shock or not.
Long story short, just get shocks for now and I do suggest the 9000s! I love them!
If your springs are toast, they are probably sagging too. If you like that look but dont care for the ride, you might check out 4x4parts.com They sell 2" lowering springs that you can buy for the rear and make it sit level (r50s sit 2" lower in the front than the back stock) and they probably have a higher spring rate so bottoming out wont be as big of an issue although I havent heard of anyone comment on the ride that they got with them.
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Not trying to post jack but im wondering why everyone looks into warn instead of milemarker? They are also a good company, cheeper, and ac claims to be using them on all their company vehicles. But then again they are local to each other. If I were to get hubs, i think i would get mile marker for the reasons i listed above unless i can get warning on them.
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alot of cars dont come with the key lock on any door but the drivers anymore, mostly because of fobs. It looks more appealing.
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yeah, when I open the glass it locks all the doors on me.
great way to lock my keys in there I say!
I know your a woman, uh and from Canada and all, but how do you manage to lock your keys in the truck if your using them?
Just poking fun at you.
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Your english is better than most of ours after we have a couple drinks! Man i would love to have a diesel! Well that is wierd cus diesel diesels usually run better when they are warm. There are only a few things that could be the problem. Your not getting the proper amount of fuel or air. Im not sure how the idler air valve works on a diesel pathy but maybe something is causing it to be shut too much when it is warm. Either that or a computer problem. Have you checked to see if you get any codes recently?
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Does anyone have a ac lift with befor and after pics of 1" strut spacers? Id love to see them! I took my truck offroading friday morning and by the trail that i went on i pretty much decided that i got as much lift that i need but maybe another inch in the front would keep me a little safer. I didnt bottem out over anything but im sure the approach angle could be a little better. I figure the thing i really need is a rear lsd or a locker! There was a point where i really had no where to turn around until i went up a hill that i just couldnt crawl up so i had to take it with some speed which scared me cus of i didnt want to hit the front bumper too hard or really at all on it. I didnt scrub on it at all but man it really made me want a lsd and strut spacers!!!! I also wonder if anyone has had cv issues with 1"strut spacers? I would probably get manual hubs with them but i figuer offroad is where they would bust anyways but at least i could unlock them if they did go.
Man, It really makes you feel good to make it over a hill that has made you frown for 10 minutes. Just glad there wasnt any heep guys to laugh at my attempts!
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Or anything off a 6 lug gm as long as the hub cutout is big enough
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No, 15's will fit on newer pathys. Im kicking myself for not getitng them. It is just an illusion that the stock 16 dosent offer much clearance between the brake and rim. My aftermarket 16s make my brakes look small. There are a couple guys around here with the new pathys with 15s. And make sure you dont try a stock chevy rim. the hub cut out will be too small. make sure you get a larger hub hole or you might have to get it machined bigger.
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So what size bolt are we gonna need for 3 tyler? The grade and the thred pattern if you know off your head? Will you put them on e-bay or just send you a check or something?
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Man you know your tempting me alot!
I think i would lean tward this a little more than the Big Lift, just cus of cost and simplisity. I would want the front level with the big lift so I would use my lift springs and i dont think i want my spring to rub. I think that this would be enough for me for now because it will make it look alot bigger due to it being level because i used to have spring boosters making it level and it looked alot bigger. Man im so redundant when im tired! eh
Anyways they would probably help my camber because it looks overcorrected anyways and if i felt rich some time i might still get a big lift and the spacers. How many do you have to sell?
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I hope this insnt considered postjacking. But my 3.3 seems to be noisy in the valve train too. All the 3.3s i have heard sound like this so i though it was ok but I dont think I have ever heard one with less than 50k on it so do ours require adjusting At regular intervels too? If so i woud probably get it done when i get my timing belt done. But shiesh...... I bet it is expensivefull (lol) to get the side that the intake manifold hides!
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You wouldnt have to drive anywhere or even start the engine to bend a valve if it were an interference enging. I wasnt aware that they were if they actaully are. I thought nissans were typicially non interference engines though. Dean or Dan would probably know. Hell if they are i think im gonna lean tward replacing my timing belt around the first of the year!
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nevermind then, but what i said can happen too
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no, like the turbo seals blew out and lost all of that oil through the stack....and hopefully the driver caught it before the motor ran out of oil.
no, more like the turbo failed and lost all boost causing the engine to go way rich. Then you know the black smoke you see sometimes? Well it was really xtream and was probably like a wet black smoke. The fuel itself was the oil that was all down the tanker. Assuming the same thing happened to him that usually happens when a tractor blows a turbo.
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oh ok
nevermind
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Just think of how bad it would have been if you didn't have the ARB!
Yea! you should see my pathy when someone purposly made me rear end them. they tried to turn in all this preexisting damage too. I only hit them about 15 but needed 1 new headlight, 1 new turnsignal, 1 new bumper, 1 new hood, 1 new grill, and 1 new foglight. All i did was tear their spare tire holder. underneith it there bumper was messed up but had red paint on it and my turck is black and there was no way my truck could have got it right there. it was awarded my fault though but they only got a new spare tire carrier and cover
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i dont think that he is talking about the maf, i think that he is talking about the hole in the bottom of the air box..... Hell parthy, where exatly r u talking about?
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I think he is saying that it was in the bottome of the air box. I have a possible reason why this is and it sounds like really wierd. wanna hear????
I have a buddy that works at a service station and he told me i wouldnt believe how many people come in with dogfood and cat food and other kinds of food in their air box.
Now im sure your probably thinking the same thing i was.... HOW THE HELL DOES DOG FOOD GET IN THERE?!?!?!?!?
Mice and rats.
Maybe the previous owner had a mouse problem, and tried to keep it from chewing on his filter. Yea crazy!
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The thing on your dash is for the temperature. I have a 2000 so i dont know if the newer ones had a true auto headlight feature but how mine works is if i turn on my head lights they turn on, but they shut them selves off automaticly when i open my door and the truck is off or after a few minutes of turning off the key. Mine kinda works auto but is not light sensing, but im guessing our system is different.
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rofl
and to be on the safe side dont make your figures any thing bigger than 31" tall and 10.5" wide. Im not sure that finding that in a 17 would be that easy but im not going to use the calculator. I dont feel like hitting the button.
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Look, dont let me worry you cuz im not an expert. I just have heard the consirns and repeted them. If its fact that its ok, then it is ok
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Some of the ones on 4x4 parts look like they might actually be cai but the weapon r and the one on the first link on 4x4parts are defenatially short rams. Im not sure if the pictures are the ones speceficially for the pathy or just a random application picture. But does anyone know if any of them are actually cai's?
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Check to see if you have a dummy t case. In that event you wouldnt need a new t case, but if you want a 4wd, probably should buy one
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new!!!! that does look like a different design than the 15.
are they making them new again? where to get one??????
only 2 gauges are lit on dashboard panel
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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His is probably a isolated case. You should be fine just getting the bulbs, but make sure you feel comfertable removing the cluster.