4x4le
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Posts posted by 4x4le
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I have a 2000 le and was wondering what was the easiest way to remove the adjustible bars on the top of my roof. I dont think that just unwinding the crank thing will remove them. Do I need to unscrew the cap thing at the front of the rail and then slide the thing off?
I also am going to need to be able the put them back on, Im having my friend make light mounts on them. 4 in the front and 2 in the back. I figure it would look too acward to just drill holes in the rack and have the lights mounted on top so im having him make a "step down" mount wich will drop it down and bring it forward. Does anyone have any suggestions on a better way?
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Well in my owners manual it highly suggests very low octane fuel at high altitudes. I suggests anything as low as 84 when its avabiable. My truck will not start up when i hold the gas down all the way but maybe thats because its not giving it enough fuel then.
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I dont know what i got out of mine when i did it but it looked closer to 4" all the way around! The springs were soooo stiff and all i did was bounce around! My struts popped every bump and then a month or 2 later I was maybe 2" all the way around. You know that since your cvs grind now, even when they settle, they will still be able to grind offroad because they will still be able to extend to that positon. I figured you did, but you just might consider sansing them...
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Defenatially the amp wire. I had this problem with mine. There should be a blue (but might not be) wire that you have to hook up to your remote turn on wire which is blue. It is like having the blue wire on your system.
I never knew about the diversity antenna, but i remember about that wire and cant remember if i hooked it to anything or left it. But, it would explain why me raido reception sucks balls! The normal antenna is hooked up but the coverage goes in and out. What do you hook it up to? Is there a screw on the back of the cd player for it to go? That would be my guess....
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I re routed mine back into the filter even though there wasnt a fitting for it.
19.99 + 9.99 is actually 29.98
and why the hell is everyone so against these! stfu! Alot of people have them! I left my bottom of my box in there beacuse there is no reason to take it out. Plus if I know im going offroading and its not sput of the moment, I can put my box back on if I would actually want to. But I usually dont and dont at all anymore. People need to think, humm, the airbox gets its air from a lower location than the cone filter, so you can actually cross less deep water. Its not like anyone has submerged their box and at the least, not noticed. If you dont use one, and havent had one on your pathy, then dont act like you KNOW their bad. If you people made the choice to get a 4 runner or something else besides a pathfinder, youd be the people saying, pathfinders suck offroad because their unibody and they are weak. Id never offroad in one of those. Yall speak of stuff you dont know.
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I dont have any pics but I just took my lid off and used a adapter which was like $10 at autozone. That way if I ever decide to do a snorkle the box can go back on real easy. But my friend just cut off the flang on his maxima and put the cone on the afm and clamped it on.
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I noticed a decrease in mpg and I think that it is really just because I like the sound. Oh well, its worth that to me!
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And im my opinion, a brush guard handles most things that you could need it to besides a winch. They defenatially handle brush better than the bullbars avabiable because the mostly all come with headlight protection and mine and the one that michiganave are selling, have the little grates infront of the headlights which really help keep brush and sticks out of the bars offroad. They really help the from scratching up the front of your truck, just the sides
So you gotta ask yourself, when you are on the trail, how much brush are you coing to come across? Because that is what a brush guard is ment to handle, and how many bulls are you going to come across? Because they can handle a bull (but i usually just blow my horn when bulls are in my way)
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that dual battery is whats nice! I have the "crappy" red top. lol
I love it and its better than any battery ive ever used but man, you go all the way with the deep cycle and a nother slim battery as if the blue top wasnt enough lol. I guess Ill just mess around and see if any of the prongs on the relay I got turned upsidedown gets + current when the highbeams are on, I think one of them do because when I had it wired wrong, one of my brights came on....i think. but that is sorta the relay setup im looking for. actually, I think that that is the relay I use already, i just need another one.
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What relay and more specificially what prong on that relay acceps the + current when the brights are turned on? Also, is there any where that sells jumpers or something that can be used as a jumper, or how can i make a jumper, so that I can run a wire from that relay to a universal relay and have the stock relay in place like it should be from the factory with the exception of a wire running by it. Im wanting to highjack the current but let it still do its job and am not wanting to make a bunch of male and female wire sections like i did on the foglight relay mod (unless I can get the current from that relay which I already have turned upside down.) After I get the current, Im going to send it to a universal relay and then send it to the one that powers my offroad lights. I like using them at night along with my brights, but hate having to dim my brights and then sit down my dip bottle and flip the other switch. But I also like using them sometimes with just me low beams and sometimes with just my foglights because they cut through fog so much better than my headlights and dont blind you like highbeams due to the way that they project the light and the way their positioned. But if I dont add the second relay, The highbeams would be turned on each time I fliped the dash switch.......Just so I dont get a bunch of questions lol. Just need 1 answer. Please help me out!!! Its too cold lately to check around for myself with a volt meter, Im hoping someone knows, that way I can make any wires I need inside and prepare what I need along with a game plan in the nice heat and throw it together In 1 minute outside.
Oh, I have a 2000 for those who didnt know
Thanks!
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Forever if you let it nickle and dime you to death! I cringe when a nissan is in that state. I was actually feeling sorry for you having this truck until i noticed you have a corvett too, then I started hating you real fast! Nissans can be expensive if someone lets them get to that state and the lady who owned it didnt take good care of it, nor drive it good, and the mechanic couldnt have been worth a flip unless she didnt let him do the stuff to it that he wanted to. I have heard and experienced many problems with flushing trannys that the bad fluid is literally holding them together.
In short, I would honestly sell it to get out from under it to avoid further losses and get one that checks out fine. That many miles isnt something that you have to stay away form, that many problems on the other hand is somthing to stay away form though
EDIT: About the timing belt thing, I dont think that the vg33e is a interference enging. I could be wrong but I think I asked befor and was told its fine
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ELECTRONIC FRONT SHOCKS? We defenatially dont got nothing like that in the states.
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Dang, when i seen this i got all excited thinking that they made something for our pathys!
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secondaries?
Well thats what i call them and im not sure that ours even have them but other nissan 4 and 6 cylender engins i have owned have them. Here is what i call a secondary....
The little butterflies in front of the second set of intake ports so that at lower cfm levels it is running off of 1 intake valve creating maxium turbulance for proper a/f mixture. But at higher cfm levels ie. wot and higher rmps, the secondaries open letting it run off of the 2 intake valves. They give you maxium tq at lower rmp and more power at high rpm. It gives you the best of both worlds. Its kinda like how american v8s will have smaller intake valves for lowend power or will have bigger valves for high hp.
Im not positive that our engines have them but nissan likes to use them on their ohc (most all i have seen) engins and they are vaccume controlled and part of the intake manifold. I modified them to stay open at all times on my nissan pulsar nx when i was 16 thinking that i would get more power running off of all 16 valves at all times but decided to put them back the way they were supposed to be and to let them do their job after i discovered their benefit. I thought that they were just a restrictor at first. Anyways, i notice a defenate louder sound through my intake right at 3k rpm and more power so i think that they are there and opening right then. Since the power increase is so noticibel (for me at least) I think that if they were to engage earlier a benefit would be there but that would require different vaccume acuators which most likely are not avabiable.
Now im sure alot of people think im crazy but im not even positive that they are on the vg33 but do a little research and you will see that they exist. Alot of the tuners i used to hang around refered to them as secondaries and im not positive that is the correct name.
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isnt 3grand when the secondaries usually open? that is where i notice a big power increase and my intake gets louder. I wish there was a muffler i could put on that would make mine louder but not have anymore in cabin noise. It is hard to talk on the phone on the interstate inbetween my intake and tires.
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I had mud (well dirt but it was mud when it got there) on the inside of my rims and threy it so off balance it was hopping wheels off the ground. It was dangerous to go over 40. I dont know if it is the same as your describing but check it out.
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I changed all my belts besides my ps belt 1 time. They all seemed bad besides that one when I was getting a constant noise. Then I had to take off all my belts and replace that one and it fixed it. I feel that once they need dressing, they need replacing. Try that.
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Well we have different engins and our resinators are in the rear and it is only 1. I had mine removed and notised no real noise difference. At first I really had to listen for the extra little puff noise and now i cant tell at all since I got used to it. So I would probably take them down just to fix the problem. I dont know how hard them resinators are to get to but $90 sounds a little high. I never pay more than $30 for something exaust removed. Whenever i got mufflers replaced and i probided the muffler, I never payed more than $20 for the swap. Now with you needing pipe too, I would say $30 a resinator would sound fare. Just remember to do both sides, not just the bad side.
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The clicking is probably a bad cv or tie rod. The noise when you give it gas, if its coming from your relay box, i dont know how your really hearing it over your enging if its a relay engaging, but its possible that maybe a relay engages when the throttle is opened. I hear some sort or a click sometimes when i give it gas. I hear a similar noise in my dads surbuban too. I dont know if its the same noise but i just worte it off as something the tq converter does and im not alarmed by the noise im getting. I dont know what yours sounds like but i probable wouldnt be worried unless it sounds bad. Sorry, I probably didnt help but I hope I might have.
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Well, have you tried to get it into adjustment with the lift? All you need is a ruler and a wrench. Try to get it into adjustment befor you just put it one way or the other. I got mine into spec fine with just the 2"lift and it looked to have plenty more adjustment left. If you didnt have enough, try enlongating the long hole on the bracket or making a extension on the bracket. Im having trouble remembering how exactly it looks. But I dont think that locking up would be your problem. It is going to think that your rear is alot lighter than it needs to be unless you adjust it to the max all the way the other way and if that were the case than you should have been able to get it into spec.
Its really easy to do but a extra set of hands would make it a really quick job. I did it by myself and it just seems like you need 3 hands for the adjustment procedure even though its real strait forward. The best thing that I think you can do is if you have to do it yourself is to try to keep the retaiining nut a with a lettle tension on it so your bracket will stay in place but you can move it if you need to with your hand to get it into adjustment.
If this sounds like a bunch of rambling, just lmk cuz i havent gotten any sleep for a little while. No reason, just enjoying my time off work but Im bout to hit the hay right now!
Hope I could help -
never noticed. I hate hollywood! Wonder how much that effect didnt cost them!?
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Damn, would my first cousin with the same last name count?
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Maybe insurance fraud. Do you think that they turned in a claim on it?
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you wouldnt need to pull the heads to get the cams out. Maybe the intake manifold, but im not sure what it looks like under the hood of a 3.5 r50
Roof rack removal
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Im getting the mesurements I need without removing it. I was wanting to remove it to make it easier to measuer but my knobs stop turning and no "pop, its off"
Wonder why? oh well