yar1
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Posts posted by yar1
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I went through the firewall on my 2004 LE at the plate for the clutch master cylinder (which isn't installed). I just removed one of the two bolts and ran the wire thru there and added a rubber grommet. Works great.
anyone have a pic of where this is at? is it the diamond shaped plate with two bolts between the round thing(brake booster?) and fender on the drivers side?
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id like some osram + 30's (9004), any kind of recovery kit/tow strap/etc for my truck, flashlights are always good, a good compressor would be nice, a racing game for xbox (360 or regular) rally,onroad,etc. computer fps games are cool.
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go to http://www.trukz.com and you can be a truck driver. its a pretty cool game, but slow. for more info : http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.p...mp;postcount=50 , and http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.p...mp;postcount=52.
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cool, any rubbing issues? both my buddies work at discount tire, im thinking of getingt BFG All Terrains..but i dont know the Mud-Terrains look incredible, but i just dont know if they'll perform well, since ill be mostly on the street.
anyway the rim i want is like 37$ from summitracing.com they are the Cragar Soft 8's 15x8
completely stock, no rubbing issues.
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i have 31x10.5 bridgestone with the stock 6 spoke alloy wheels from a 96
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im in.
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i have 31x10.5 on the 6 spoke rims and no rubbing that ive ever noticed.
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what brand do you all use? should i look for NKG?
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on 8-13 i changed the oil and put in castrol 5-30 high mileage oil, when i checked it once done it read full( i put in 4qts) about a week later it was reading only half full( cold) now today it needed some when i checked it (hot). is 5-30 too thin to use in this engine/weather? it has 131k miles and its been ~100 in the bay area lately. should i add thicker oil? drain it all and put in thicker oil? put in lucas oil stabilizer? i used that last time with regular castrol 10-40 and it lost no oil, but it wasn't as hot then.
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i think dextron 3 is the equivalent
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ok, what about the dust cap?
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couple more questions, will i need a new dustcap? will i need an alingment afterwards? and do the bolts on the knuckle have to be to a certian torque? and the ones on the axle/diff?
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i think i understand it now, thanks for all the help
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The tools you'll use to replace the CV are:
flat screwdriver and vise-grips (to remove the hub cap as shown in this pic)
snap-ring pliers to remove the snap-ring (instead of needle nose pliers as shown here)
You will also need some sockets (12mm, 14mm), a 3/8" drive ratchet, and an extension.
When handling the new CV axle, be careful not to put too much pressure on the cap over the inner CV joint. It can easily pop off pretty easily if the joint pushes against it, and then the grease inside will make a mess everywhere. If it does come off, it's easily reinstalled by tapping around the edges with a mallet.
Jack up the truck and remove the tire.
Remove the hub cap and snap-ring.
Remove the 6 bolts securing the CV axle to the differential, rotating the differential/axle as needed to gain access to all of the bolts. If the axle rotates when you try to remove the bolts, move the transfer case lever to 4WD.
Remove the 3 nuts holding the lower ball joint to the A-arm.
Separate the A-arm from the lower ball joint and swing it down.
With the A-arm out of the way, just slide the CV axle out of the hub (towards the center of the truck).
Sometimes a grease seal will slide out with the old CV. (The new CV doesn't come with a new seal, so if the old CV has extra parts attached to it that you don't see on the new one, be sure to transfer the parts from the old to the new.)
Insert the new CV into the hub in the reverse way you removed the old one, and reassemble everything.
is this doing it a different way than in the how-to section? the balljoint is where the arm connects to the frame, correct?
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Don't drive it any more until you have replaced the boot also known as a gaiter. Two reasons and both end at the same failure of the CV joint:
1. The grease will fly out of the CV joint, through the split, and the joint will fail due to lack of lubrication. You will also get grease sprayed all over the hub assembly and possibly your brakes. Not a good idea.
2. The split boot has expossed the grease to the outside elements. If any grit gets inside this grease, which it will if you keep on driving it, it will mix in with the grease that is left and act like a carborundum paste and this will destroy the joint.
I dont know how much a CV joint is where you are but here in Oz you are looking at the difference between $20 for a boot and $300 for a CV joint.
I ordered the whole axle, what special tools are needed? and what should i do while im in there?
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yes, that did suck. so the tire was bouncing up and down? i didnt know the axel affected the dampening
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the outer boot on the drivers side is mostly gone, i've ordered the part but it wont be here until atleast monday and then i need to install it (hopefully with some help). should i avoid driving it in the mean time? and is now a good time to put manual hubs in? and what can i do to prevent this from happening again?
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it has the small whip antenna.
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i just bought a hand held cb from radioshack, im in a house right now and its not picking anything up, is this normal? this is a very populated area btw.
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i have an emaxx, but it currently doesnt work due to electrical problems that i dont feel like trying to fix. when it ran it was fun though.
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the autozone here sells only 30 amp, they are in the aisle with the extra foglights/kc/etc.
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what kind if radio should i buy for this? will any cb radio from radioshack work?
Cracked Radiator
in The Garage
Posted
i just replaced my radiator on my 96, 200 from autozone. it was leaking near the top somewhere and causing coolant to sit on the ring around the top with crimped edges.