tecciball

any one convert their auto to manual tranny? it bet it would cost a fortune. thoughts anyone?

fueler- you must have terrible cataracts and arthritis. it is a good thing that gov schwartz is sympathetic! sly i found a nasty metal piece. nothing to be excited about.

Navy- First and foremost, I did not intend to knock the wacky. I consumed enough in my highschool and college years to put all the children in British Columbia through college. I have a wife, two kids and a decent job now so that habit is long gone. So for both me and the Pathy, there is not much in the way of a smokey smell remaining. The place I bought it from scrubbed the carpets and seats. They didnt scrub the headline though. I have been wondering if I can get that clean. Thoughts anyone? Reading this forum has got me thinking about the possible residual effects of the previous owner, namely the cabin filter. That is all.

RMD- I have an 01 SE with 44k now. I am changing the coolant based on age and mileage. I am changing my tranny fluid because it looks a bit dirty. I am getting some slipping between second and third during moderate throttle when the engine is cold. I had it at the dealership to be checked and they "couldnt recreate the issue". my powertrain is up in september, so I want to get to the bottom of it before it is too late for a free fix.

I spoke with my local Nissan service guy (who used to be a GM service guy), and he said definitely NO on the dexcool. Explanation: It does offer the added mileage life, but that does NOT outweigh the negatives. He said that if you get air in the system, that dexcool turns to sludge. Once that happens, it is next to impossible to get it all out. The sludge will continue to work its way into the heater core. He had changed multiple cores on the same vehicle many times due to coolant sludge deposits. $$$$.

mzxtreme - let me know what the dealer says if you dont mind. i am not gonna get the work done for until the weekend at the earliest. my pathy should be going to the body shop this afternoon for its rear end make over. so i assume that i should completely stay away from the lube place, right? for the tranny/differentials/t-case service as well? i certainly dont want to cause myself a problem. i am in fact doing the maintenance to prevent long term problems. i have a trusted mechanic that i use. i know that those two words dont often go together, but he seems honest and reasonably priced to me. would a standard garage have the equipment needed to do a tranny and coolant flush? as i said above, i was also gonna get both diffs and the tcase fluids swapped as well. i guess i should just call him and ask.

Hey ladies and gentlemen. Any ladies on this forum? Maybe not... Anyway, for those of you that read and/or responded to my previous post about transmission vs coolant flush, I stroke of fate is allowing me to do both. I got rear-ended sitting at a toll booth about two weeks ago. I got about $1100 from the ladies insurance company for the repairs, but I have a guy who is gonna do the work for $450 cash. I am keeping my scratched up bumper cover instead of a new freshly painted one, but I have my Pathy on highway construction sites and in the woods for work, so I dont care about that. And the guy said he can buff out most of the scratches and get everything lined up again normally. So I am gonna use some of the unexpected cash to do a few maintenance services on my Pathy. Since I very limited auto maintenance/repair experience, I am gonna get the work done at my local Valvoline shop. They are always empty, so they are giving me 10% off for getting their coolant service and "SUV" service. So here is the question. They will use the standard 36k mile fluid for $70. Or they have Dexcool and Zerek fluid, which the guy said have 100k and 150k mile life respectively for $85. Seems like a no brainer to get the better fluid. Is the extra mileage true about those fluids? The guy said they are for either GM or Chrysler vehicles, but since their flush machine removes all the existing fluid, I could refill with the better stuff with no trouble. I told him it was a Pathfinder. Sorry for the long post, and thanks again in advance for all your helpful advice.

My Pathy was leased in its fomer life, which is why it only had 33k on it when I bought it. Unfortunately, the original driver was a heavy smoker of both the brown and wacky tabacco. The guy even left me a gift under the rear seat. sssh Anyway, I thinking I would like to replace the in cabin air filter. It doesnt stink of smoke. I just imagine it is gross from the former smoker. Can anyone clue me in on the replacement procedure, or point me toward some directions online? Thanks in advance, and I will be posting another question in a new string about coolant fluid options.

thanks gentlemen. i wont worry about it too much.

Here is a pic of the bottom plug.

My transfer case is leaking a bit. I noticed it when I was rotating my tires. How big of a deal is this? I have not seen any fluid puddling under the truck, so I think it is just seaping out at both the back and bottom points. Please advise. I have successfully changed my O2 sensor, thanks help and advice from this board, so thanks again.

Roddy- As others have said, thank you for your service. For your tire question, I have researched this recently as well for my 01 SE. You will find this forum to be very helpful. My goal, similar to yours, is to fit the tallest possible tire on a stock suspension with little or no rubbing. I have not bought anything yet, but when the time comes I will be buying Yokohama Geolander AT +2, size 255/70. From what I hear, the size should be fine. You can possibly to bigger, but I dont want to do any suspension mods until my shocks/struts wear out. And since my Pathy only has 43k miles and is 90% pavement, that should not be for a while.As for the tire, the Geolander is similar in tread to the Revo, but less expensive. $91 each vs $129 each on tirerack.com for the 255/70 size. Also watch buying LT size tires, as I understand that they do not come with a mileage warrantee. That is my two cents.

I need to change both my tranny fluid (looks a bit dirty) and coolant (based on mileage). I can't really afford to change both right now. Can anyone tell me which is more important, and how much I should expect to pay. I want to stay away from the dealership. Any suggestions on fluid brands? Thanks in advance for your help. This forum has been great.

so i have figured out that my p0158 error code is for the rear left (passenger) sensor. correct me if i am wrong, but i think that the pigtail runs all the way from the post-cat location to the right side of the engine (facing engine). q's is this correct? why is it so damn long? what is the best way to run the wire without it hitting hot/sharp engine/exhaust parts? i am a bit of a novice here, but i am feeling a bit adventurous, and a lot cheap. dealer quoted me 320 or so...

why are they so expensive? one of my rear sensors occasionally reads high voltage. i can clear it out and it doesnt come back for a while. my gas mileage is not so great though. also, any one ever experiment with using regular gas in a vq engine?

sorry for being technically lame, but how exactly would you "short out" the connection? what is the best solvent to try to clean the switch contacts?

lets see if anyone can help me diagnose this: the rear driver side window is very tempermental. it will go down with the front driver's switch just fine. it will go up with the front driver's switch once every thousand attempts. the switch on the rear driver door does nothing. since it goes down fine with the front driver's switch, and up fine when the front driver's switch chooses to work, i think that the motor is just fine. the front driver's switch has dirty contacts and probably needs cleaned or replaced. i also think that the rear driver's switch has very dirty contacts or is just busted and needs cleaned or replaced. thoughts? the rear passenger side window is also annoying. it will go up and down with the rear passenger switch just fine. the front driver switch does nothing. again, i think the front passenger switch contracts are dirty and need to be cleaned or replaced. thoughts? also to note - i bought the car used. it appears that the previous owner was a complete slob and a smoker. stains on head liner and carpets. scratches on the plastic in the cargo area. etc. current fix - turn the window lock on so that none of the windows are suck open...

tmorgan4 is right on about why the keyless entry is now working consistently. my rear lift gate needs a gentle slam for it to close properly. if you dont close it hard enough, then lock the doors - no beap. if you slam it again - beap! try it yourself and you will see.

I want to upgrade the tires on my 01 SE. I dont want to get into modifying the suspension, but I also dont want to damage the new rubber with excessive tire rub. As you all know, there are not many options at the stock size. Any suggestions? I also want to use my stock wheels.