bitemedoughboy.com
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Posts posted by bitemedoughboy.com
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Superior already makes 4340 Chromo shafts for the waggy 44.. I"m running them
http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/advanced_sea...o+wagoneer+ev48
not chromos, super axles:
they make them for the rubicons, d60's and those guy that have toy's
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I have a 92 pathy with a bad speedo and odometer and I have a 5 speed manual . Ik theres other with the same problem but i didnt wan tto jack their thread. I just wanted to know if I were to buy a auto or a manual cluster with a working speedo from 90-92 will the speedo part be the same. ( ik the cluster looks a little different) but are the gears and stufff the same so i can just swap them out into mine?
they should all be the same, the drive gears have different teeth counts to adjust for the different ratios in the auto/manual rigs. you should be able to tear it apart and take the speedo out of an auto cluster and stuff it into your manual cluster.
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Used to be but now with the proper internals a D44 could handle 38's. Of course the question is would it be cheaper to just use a D60 instead of purchasing and installing the stronger internals?
that rule of thumb is for mostly stock D44's, but if your going to dump 2 grand in u-joints and cryo'd parts your better off with a D60 with some longfield's (cant wait till bobby long makes a set for the D44)
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stock is 2.25, run 2.5 for optimal performance..
if he's just making a "test pipe" as some call them, you want to match the size of the tube that's already there, jumping up then back down in tube size will cause restriction in the flow.. if he is running a new exhaust all the way back i say 2.5" or what ever he feels like. all the scavenging takes place in the manifolds and in the y-pipe, after that it doesnt really matter.
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Thats just way jim builds them,
but now that i think about it, the other end is the custom end and it changes depending on whether or not you are running a CV-joint etc, since the CV is at the top, the other end will always uses a standard piece. which puts the slip yoke at the bottom,... which hasn't been a problem
that makes sense, i didnt know you have a cv in there....
have you had any experience with ballistic joints? they had a chrome moly joint with the threaded stud now. i been thinking about using them on my SAS, i dont like the way the JJ's use a snap ring.
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there is only about an inch of spline showing. and i have a good 3.5 - 4" spline engagment. only about 2.5 is reqd
This DS was custom made by JE Reel specifically for this truck.
any reason why your running the slip yolk at the bottom? wouldn't it stay cleaner at the top?
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Looks like it might be time for a new drive shaft, you got a lot of spline showing on that slip joint.
depends on if he has a lot of up travel vs. droop
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if some bodys dumb enough to go balls out around a corner on their maiden voyage thats what usually happens.
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thats doesnt look like much triangulation, hows the side to side movement? let us know how it handles on/off the trail.
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would motor oil be safe to try?
Motor oil is for engines.... power steering fluid is hydraulic fluid, basically the same as ATF just replace the darn box, 4 bolts, 2 hoses, a pitman arm and the rag joint and its out of there... my box is oozing from the input shaft seal plus it feels like im driving a ford with all that slop in the wheel. so mine is coming out real soon.
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I don't know about Canada but here in the states we have Forward Air Terminal & it's the cheapest way to ship bigass stuff (thats how we shipped my replacement engine from NJ to NC)
Amtrak has cheap freight service, its slow and has to fit on a pallet. plus they only deliver to terminals, so you have to pick it up from their terminal.
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98% of ppl who die in car accidents eat mashed potatoes.
do you eat mashed potatoes?
never, i found that one out when i was 5, decided i wanted to live a long and productive life so i swore never to eat mashed potatoes ever again.
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i wonder if is the same for the rest of the world?
probably with the doctor part, but i dont think other countries can compete with the US in # of guns per capita...
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Werd. Diesel's the way to go for badass torque!
I'm still trying to find a QD32 for a reasonable price but it's a little tough. The TD27 would be nice but there's a silly turbo upgrade available for the QD that I just can't help but want.
If all else fails, I'm shopping around for a VG33ER at the JY's across the country.
BTW, does anyone know if the VG33ER uses the same transmission as the VG33E in the R50?
*edit* its the same engine less the s/c... all of the VG engines use the same block and therefore the same tranny bolt pattern.
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Statistics don't lie.
the largest surgical error that is made is the doctors operating on the wrong appendage during corrective surgery. so if you go to have surgery get a sharpie and write on your foot, hand or whatever.. "other side dip@!*% --->" that way they get it right.
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* Doctors *
(A) The number of physicians in the U.S. is 700,000.
(
Accidental deaths caused by Physicians per year are 120,000.© Accidental deaths per physician is 0.171.
Statistics courtesy of U.S. Dept of Health and Human Services.
Now think about this:
* Guns *
(A) The number of gun owners in the U.S. is 80,000,000.
(Yes, that's 80 million)
(
The number of accidental gun deaths per year, all age groups, is 1,500.© The number of accidental deaths per gun owner is .000188.
Statistics courtesy of FBI
* So, statistically, doctors are approximately 9,000 times more dangerous than gun owners.
Remember, 'Guns don't kill people, doctors do.'
FACT: NOT EVERYONE HAS A GUN, BUT
ALMOST EVERYONE HAS AT LEAST ONE DOCTOR.
Please alert your friends to this alarming threat.
We must ban doctors before this gets completely out of hand!!!!!
Out of concern for the public at large,
I withheld the statistics on lawyers
for fear the shock would cause
people to panic and seek medical attention!
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I had my fluid changed to the redline MT90 two years ago. Last winter it was fine, this winter it's like shifting through mud. I didn't have ti flushed, just drained and filled. I may have it done again after the winter. I have a weird problem. If I shift from 1st to 2nd, it gets hung up. If I shift from first to neutral then to 2nd, it's ok. Also, when it's cold and I'm shifting to 2nd, it always grings no matter how far I press the clutch. 3rd gear is a little better. I don't have a problem with 4th or 5th.
mine does the exact same thing. but once its warm its fine.
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I had purchased my 1990 nissan pathfinder from my friend that i use to go mobbing with christmas day of 08. since then i have done all shocks, center link, a tie rod end, ball joints the uppers, sway bar bushings and end links on the front, idler arm. and i believe thats all. But my thing is, my upper control arms are hitting my shocks when the front end catches air, one side seems to have a bump stop to keep that one side from hitting the other its about half gone and it hits. My Question is, if i get rough country or any other control arms. will it stock my shocks from being hit by my control arms. I am 2wd and i dunno if that matters. But let me know what u think. thanks.
your shocks shouldnt hit the arms period. something is not set up right if they are hitting. is the camber and caster correct?
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I will post all updates here:
any more updates?
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Soo, wow, this seems so counter intuitive, but would letting the truck warm up before starting off help save gas for a short commute? I too drive only 3 miles to work, and my mileage is abysmal.
IF you let it warm up all the way to 160 or what ever the temp is that the ECU switches to closed loop. or after the ecu cuts the fuel enrichment which is above a certain temp. you would have to look in a FSM to find out what those values are.
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Just thought I would let you know that the shimmy was coming from one end of my centerlink. The hole that goes through had became egg shaped and was allowing it all to shift around while driving. when the pathfinder was parked you could not feel any movement in it, it was found because i started taking all of the steering apart to find the problem. This is not recommended but since I had no money at the time i found the problem I drought it to a friend that runs a fab shop he welded the area and re machined and drilled it for me 4 free. After putting the front end back together and doing a driveway alignment the pathfinder drives straight with no shimmy. Before anyone starts going off on thats not a safe fix, I am going to replace it on payday and keep this one as a spare part for on the trails. be safe and I hope this helps some others with the same problem.
nothing wrong with welding a whole and re-drilling and reaming it.
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yea I definitely, think so, that is why I wanted o go with a 3 linked coil spring s.A.s.
But I am worried about the suspension being to soft.
too soft? not such a thing, too stiff yes... if it holds the rig up its not too soft.
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that was kinda my thoughts. if im going top be spednign 5k to get a sr to work why not spend the extra 1k and make it a better car. Plus then i can say i have a skyline engine haha
that would be sick... if i ever win powerball i'm going to put an rb26dett in my 280z that would be sick with a bob sharp style IMSA widebody
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With 35's i'd run 4.88's with a v6 38's i would run 5.13's.
Unless your building a mall crawler, you shouldn't go over 35" with a D44 front. they wont last long. for 38's you need to find a D60
quick speedo Q
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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as long as the style of cluster is the same shape i dont see why not...