bitemedoughboy.com
-
Posts
369 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by bitemedoughboy.com
-
-
There is a lot more to an EGR system than most people realize. The engineers who designed it didn't put it in for no reason....
I agree that is has its downsides. The inside of your intake gets caked with carbon especially around the cylinders where the EGR valve sits. The plumbing can be simplified a ton without it.
From what I've read, a good figure is that the EGR system supplies about 10% of your air volume when the valve is open. This air that it supplies has already been combusted and depleted of oxygen so it basically takes up space. The MAF readings will be lower because you're actually drawing in ~10% less fresh air. Less oxygen means less fuel which means less emissions and better fuel mileage. Keep in mind that this valve only opens while cruising at constant speed. As soon as you hit the throttle the valve closes.
There is a lot more to it than this and I'm not claiming to understand it completely. There is another guy on the NICO board that could explain it far better than I can.
i always thought they we a cheap band aid to keep the greenie liberals happy? but if you in a non emissions testing part of the country, hack that crap out of there and make a block off plate for the intake manifold. its one less thing to cause you trouble.
-
x2
the egr lowers combustion temps for more efficent burn= better mpg
I wish I knew how much better tho
explain how hot exhaust being dumped into the intake lowers combustion temps?
-
Hard to say I've heard +20 but you can use this chart to verify, given you know the rim width and the backspacing.
how is 5" backspacing zero offset on a 9" wheel? wouldnt 4.5" be zero on a 9" wheel.???
-
This.
B
i've only ridden in an auto pathy... i thought it sucked compared to a 5 speed... but then again i dont like autos (except for tow rigs)
-
I need more width. Some may remember i was asking about spacers. I gave up that idea and now thinking about buying new "15 inch wheels.
If i install wider wheels such as 8.25 or 8.5, what happens? will it rub something? Tire size is 265x70x15.
wheel offset value is -5 ET. what does that mean?
here is an image of that wheel. this is only model i can find. nobody is selling more expensive ones. I checked dick cepek and mickey thompson. no luck on 15". my tires are almost new.
could you help me please?
if you keep the same backspacing the tire will be offset away from the car and you will have less tire extending past the rim on both sides so you will gain a little clearance on the inside.
-
my na vg30e in my 86 300zx had reved to 7 before i know mine in my pathy had got to 6200 before also
was that loaded? just looked in my '85 FSM and the factory rev limiter is set at 6500 on the z31's not sure about the pathy specs.
-
when under load mine also sputters just a little @ 4700rpm but smooths out by 5k. I just figured its the engine telling you its near its limit.
I run my timing on my tbi @ 15 deg instead of 12 I also know that the mpfi vg30e is sopposed to run @ 15. I notice better fuel economy when running 15 deg but nothing else feels differant.
as far as redline, like everyone else said, its the design of the engine. in the case of the vg30 there is risk of the pistons coming up faster than the valves can close @ above 6600rpm. so the ecu prevents you from doing so.
sounds like your cam timing is retarded by one tooth or 5°
-
have you ever had a DD with a welded rear? how badly did it eat up the tires? ever break any axles? i would think the 33-spline axles could hold up to a little bit of binding, considering what they go through on the trails.
i could be locked front and rear for <$50
i know tons of guys that run welded rears on full sized and small pickups, none of them have problems with them. the only ppl that i ever hear negative things from are the ppl that dont have them. and as light as our rigs our i would say there would be no problem with binding, no more than a LSD or an LSD with xtra shims in it. driving on the street is going to put less stress on it than when you are crawling up a rocky hill with only one tire on the ground.
-
I did not know about the second bleed point. I will look for that later today when I get it back to the house. Thanks for the info!!!
there is a spring loaded damper on the firewall, you have to bleed it first then the slave, go spend $40 and by a mity vac kit from autozone it comes with the brake bleeding jar. you wont regret it.
-
They definitely dont offer a rear for the 50 yet
just weld the spiders up, you dont need a selectable in the rear. and once you drive one on the trail you'll never go back. and they're really not as bad on the street as all the ney sayers make them out to be.
-
you could use a stock one just include an inline oiler and a filter on the way out
i dont think you could get enough pressure out of a rotary vane compressor, a 2cyl. york recip. is the way to go.. or just buy a 12v compressor and put a small tank in with it.
-
Thanks for the info bitemedoughboy i am already planing a whohaa centerlink think i got his name wrong. I have not actually seen a double sheer setup on a pathfinder before.
here is an l&p idler arm (just noticed their crappy looking welds)
here is mine:
-
a idle arm brace wont help much, especially on the PNW trails. once you brace the idle arm, the arm itself will bend and/or the plastic bushings will fail. next goes the joints in the centerlink. the best thing you can do to the IFS if you want it to last on the trail is a set of double shear arms and a re-worked centerlink. like L&P used to make or the other guy on here (cant remember his name) i built mine up similar to their setups a few weeks ago and cant believe the difference. for a write-up on it look for the thread titled "how to polish a turd" on ruggedrocks.com's forum. its in the nissan/pathfinder section.
-
I haven't confirmed this myself but I believe it is for a load-sensing brake proportioning valve. Basically, the greater the load on your rear axle, the more brake bias towards the rear brakes.
that sounds right.... i knew it has something to do with the brakes or similar....
-
It never squeals on the first start of the day - it seems to happen on the 2nd or third start-up (when warm). This has been happening for about a month now. Recently, I have noticed a noise (squeal/whine) from the engine compartment while driving that seems to build with the RPMs and drop when I shift; buiding again as RPMs increase.
My pathy is just killing me right now - running rich, IACV problems, squealing etc. What a headache! /rant
do you remember to feed your hamsters in the morning? they may be getting hungry after the initial cold jog on the wheel, or maybe the exercise wheel is worn out, sometimes they squeak when worn. i had to take my hamsters wheel away at night because they are nocturnal animals and the damn thing would run on his wheel all night long.
-
i would of just kept the one you had and had it planed flat it shouldn't warp again and snap bolts anymore the new one will do the same thing again. granted that is you already had one and you bought one because the old one was warped
Kiel (sp?) just plug the f*cking thing, we dont have emmisions testing on this side of the mtn's plus it doest need it. if you need a hand bring it by and i'll weld the holes shut for you.
-
I took a quick scan through the 99 FSM and didn't see anything that jumped out.
Its for the traction control system or load leveling, the 1st gen pathys had something like that, would have to look through the FSM to figure it out. when the rig is under a heavy load or acceleration the rear end squats and thus activates the switch...
-
My freind hooked up a leaf blower once in his sauturn for the air intake and that #$!&er ripped haha this seams like the same concept
what do you guys think of this?
http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/Nissan-Supercharger...5QQcmdZViewItem
youre joking right?
-
I have ultra-low profiles on mine, they are about 1/4"thick at the center, stock were about 3/4" thick at the center IIRC.
thanks
-
ya, it's probably a p***y.
maybe the hamster has a limp?
-
i just picked up some universal poly bump stops, i'm going to put them in place of the missing bump stops that limit the down travel. does anybody know how short i need to trim them? i dont have the originals to measure from. the CV's bind and full droop and that makes for some scary driving ion the slick stuff.
-
Be careful when pulling a vehicle thats frozen in ice. I had to recover my friend's S-10 after he drove through a puddle so deep water was over the hood. The truck died and couldnt get it started so we towed it to my other friends place that was close. It went down to about -20 that night, so all the water from the puddle was solid ice. they went to tow it the next day and noticed that the tires were not rolling, even tho it was in neutral :s everything was frozen. im not sure exactly what froze to make the wheels not spin but im sure it wasnt good for the truck.
water in the brake drums and/or the differential if the vent hose was broken
-
Only had 50ft of straps and 30 ft of rope. Truck was about 450ft off road(according to the tow guy) And naw there was just too much dam snow to get a tug off. But its over now and I aint goin in the snow without my very own winch again.
it must not be illegal in your state to drive off the roads (trails) ? even with snow on the ground in WA you cant drive off the green dot roads and designated jeep trails...
-
i understand what your trying to do, but im just wondering can i use any other tranny in the place. Im just wondering is there any other tranny that i can buy a cheap abdator too and hook it up. Thats all im askin. I appericate the website link thou, i guess i can use that as a back up and when money comes in too.
the only tranny that will bolt up to a nissan engine is a nissan tranny... period. unless you have an adapter made. but that defeats the purpose of trying to save money. if its a manual you're looking for get the 80's they are the same up until 95 IIRC. the autos IDK anything about (all autos are crap in my book)
White Lightnin Performance Module
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
not on a TBI unit, on MPI yes...