bitemedoughboy.com
-
Posts
369 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by bitemedoughboy.com
-
-
My dipstick is stuck & I can't get it out. It'll come about 1/3 of the way up & then it just stops & seems like it gets caught on something. What the hell is going on & how can I get this sumb!tch out!
I've already tried twisting it while it was stuck to see if there is a point where it'll come loose, I tried letting it go down bellow where it gets stuck & the pulling to see if I can get it past that point but no luck.
try astroglide or K-Y, you and your "engine" will enjoy it more
-
Hey guys, i bought a 1990 240sx, and i also have a 1990 pathfinder. My 240 i got 2 days ago and there is a loud wining noise coming from either the transmission or the throw out bearing. When i have the clutch out at idle the throw out bearing wines like crazy. and when i drive it wines a lot to. Do you think it could be just the throw out bearing making the noise? and its only when i am on the gas. Also, is there any custom long travel kits for the pathfinder that u guys would recomend checking in to? thanks guys.
ac (4x4parts.com) sells a long a-arm kit for the pathy, but for that price you could do a SAS 2x, plus to you have to run wheel spacers in the rear so the track width is the same, and you have to get the fiberglass wide fender kit for it to make it somewhat street legal. you only gain about 4" of travel (11" total)
-
so my truck is in for it's 2nd set of cv axles and 2nd set of ball joints (plus CL and TRE) in only a few thousand miles. I'm guessing the truck has been lifted so it's eating through the suspension parts. So I've got 30x9.5x15 on the truck, the stock is 235x75x15". I asked him to lower the torsion spring and bring it back to stock and re-align it. He said since the truck doesn't have stock tires, it he won't do it. (it's currently shimmed/aligned for the current height) But the difference works out to be 241x79x15 when converted. Should I just set the torsion bar myself and have it re-aligned? Anyone else running bigger tires and eating through suspension parts? I just wanna be able to do some mildish 4x4ing on this truck w/o tearing through parts every 3 months. Thanks!
I'll attach a couple pix. Does it look stock height? btw, when the nerf bars were on, the weight really brought the truck down.
where are you buying your parts? are you greasing them? cv axles should take at least 100k+ miles unless the boots are torn. and the nissan ball joints usually last at least that, unless you dont grease them or drive like Ivan Stuart off road. my current pathy had 340k miles on it when i got it, and as far as i could tell it was all original nissan parts...
p.s. your alignment guy is a retard and/or lazy
-
a big enough jerk should pull you out ?????
and dont go wheeling by yourself... the buddy system w/ a tow strap will get you out of almost any situation..
-
1. photobucket is your frined
2. Depending on the situation $700 bill from the wrecker company is justifiable (yo uknow what it costs to insure them? let alone buy, correctly register-not just slap a pickup plate on it,fuel, maintain, pay someone who actually correctly and saftly knows how to run and operate one?)
3. good you got out unscaithed
did any of the vehicles air down their tires? the guys that snow wheel around her run in way deeper snow and rarely get stuck, they all run bead locks and air down to around 5 psi...
-
I'm running 12" Travel Walker Eavans coilovers in the front
Full SAS Writeup:
http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/blog/2008/12...xle-conversion/
hows the spring rate on the TJ coils?
-
I'm looking at turning this rear suspension into a production part sometime in the next few months, but this was done by Toyota Masters in Colton, CA by Jay King. He does great work.
Only the top needs to be triangulated.
Street Manners have been greatly improved over what i had in there before. being SAS'd it doesn't drive as good as it was IFS but i still can drive on the hwy with little trouble. 65mph is not a problem.
yes, those are bilstein 12" travel.
are the 12" long enough for the front? i have (4) 13" trailmasters im planning on using on mine. for some reason they dont look long enough either.
-
I'm looking for some blueprints/auto CAD drawings or something for a front bumper. I've got a buddy that will build me one, but he needs detailed plans, since he wont have my Pathy to "mock up" with. Does anyone have some plans? I still don't know how to use the search function, sorry.
Thanks.
anybody with skillz enough to fab a bumper should be able to make one to fit your rig without "detailed plans". i have an Autocad drawing of my bumper but its not detailed out, i just made a 3d model of it and printed it out full size to make a template for the top, the rest i laid out w/o the drawing. i can email it to you if you want... you will have to come up with something stronger than the stock mounts, they are worthless. i rear ended a 2 ton flat bed with my bumper and the stock mounts crumbled like foil. i replaced them with 3/8" plate welded to the frame. the bumper attaches to the new mounts with (3) 1/2" bolts on each side. i would recommend (4) on each side or go with grade 8. i sheared the grade 5 bolts off when i hit a burm doing about 20 mph and came to a dead stop.
-
Steeeeevo, are those Bilstein shocks? and whats the travel on them?
-
your cv axles and centerlink for the pictures
you might need a tcase, brake cleaner withh get rid of the oil so you can see where it is leaking, if you need a t case i have one here you can have
i highly doubt his transfer case broke, most likely his differential housing or the cover.
-
I've got pricing on the materials, joints, powdercoating, but i missed the call the from the machine shop today which it the last thing i need to come up with a final price.
I'll be calling the machine shop back in the morning, and i should FINALLY have the Final price.
Sorry this is taking so long,
taking so long.... ? you're moving at light speed compared to most businesses...
-
The length adjustability of them is what I'm looking for.
they make bushing ends with a threaded stud.... im sure Steeevo can get something similar
-
the tops triangulated but what about the bottom. for a triangulated 4 link dont you need the lower links triangulated as well. with the upper links typically going \ / and the lower links going / \.
thats what i was thinking, but in this case it would be opposite.
-
Steeev0....who welded the cross piece on top of the pumpkin? Your setup is kind of what i was thinking of doing to my R50, but i'm a little scared to weld anything to the pumpkin or axle shafts for fear of warpage...
you wont warp anything if you tack everything up then weld in short beads alternating sides so you dont generate too much heat in one spot.
-
WOW, how did I miss this? I'd be VERY interested as I have been thinking about making my own. Are you making upper and lowers? What about Panhard bars? My plan was to make replacements for all 5 links with JJs.
theres no need for a JJ on a panhard bar, they dont twist.... a poly bushing will work fine for a panhard
-
did you try reversing the drill? it will only make the needle move if turned in the correct rotation, i believe counter clockwise as viewed from the rear for the cluster, a drill normally runs clockwise.
-
Count me in. Can't wait for income tax...
how much for a custom length set for those wanting to "long arm" the rear ?
-
I'm working on getting pricing by the end of the day, and will post here as soon as I get more info.
Anyone else?
By saying you are interested, you are not commiting, i'm only looking for how many people like the idea, and would consider buying them.
interested - yes
like idea - yes
think they will sell - yes
pay someone to do what i can do myself - no
keep up the good ideas, maybe some day the pathfinders will catch up to the rest of the bolt-on 4x4 community (like heeps and toys)
-
bought damn time!
-
They will be the stock length when adjusted all the way short. and you can lengthen them almost 4"
They wouldn't be DOT approved.
The 1.75"x.281 Wall is required for tapping the tube and fit the joints 1.25" shank (which is the biggest the option joints come in and is bigger than what most leading jeep suspension manufactures use, Rubicon Express etc..) without using weld in bungs.
I've ran both types of tube and i haven't had any problems with either one.
who is going to check to see if they're DOT approved? the SS brake lines i have been running in my Z for the last 15 years are not DOT approved. there are a ton of non DOT aftermarket parts out there. it doesn't mean they're not safe for a DD, it just means that they have not been through the Governments over taxation process yet. i say go for the links for any vehicle. its better than buying (8) sets of bushings from AC @ ~$50/set.
-
why wouldnt they be "street legal" ?
may i suggest 2"x.250 DOM or 2x2x.250 square tube for the bottom links, they will hold up better on the rocks.
-
NIB, i bought these thinking they would fit my KEL-TEC but they dont.... my loss is your gain. $20 obo
FYI im posting this here cuz theres no "general crap for sale" section under classifieds
-
I could have sworn 4x4parts carried them years ago.
...or I'm just crazy...
you would be better off with a 4.3/nv3500/d241 combo for light wheelin, but if your gonna do any serious crawling or mudding go with a 5.7 or 4.3/nv4500/205 with the 3:1 kit in it.
-
its the same shape they changed it a little but like the heat and volt gauge are in the center instead of the sides but thats not reall important because i dont think thats replated to the speedo part at all.
it should work, the speedo is its own little assembly iirc.
What is this for?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
its for impaling gringos that take to long crossing the road...