Tungsten

What about this one? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-3951/?image=large The inlet and outlet sizes are different, this one is a 1/2

Looks like it comes with everything http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70264/?image=large If it fits, I will buy it

I think my radiator is still either clogged or has air in it and my overflow bottle is way over its maximum line. The thermostat does work as it does warm up to a little below half quickly but as soon as I start driving it slowly heats up and doesn't stop. I had to pull over today because it was at 3/4 already and since I do not yet have a transmission cooler I risk killing my transmission. I should have spent the $400 on an aftermarket radiator (if there are any for these trucks). It was doing the same thing before except the warm up would take forever (stuck open thermostat) and it would just keep heating and heating.

go to the junkyard and pick the flip open arm rest from a 94 or so which has the cup holders built right in thats what i did, cost me $3

if your fan clutch is locked on full then you will probably get low temps but i need someone else on here to tell me what their temps are with a 180 degree thermostat

is there anything i can show them? its definately running a bit warm well at least they still flushed the system and installed the thermostat

ok back from the shop they said that anywhere between 1/2 and 3/4 is normal my overflow bottle is also way over the max line now another thing which kinda irritates me is that they never removed any of the labels from the hoses but just put clamps over them now the labels are ripping off at the clamps and it looks retarded

i had that problem before, it would just stay on so i replaced it

mine does that too but then after a few seconds it shuts off and lets the truck warm up but i don't know when that spring should engage and lock it again

yea good point does anyone know at what point the fan clutch should kick in and spin up the fan?

ok i will try a burp and go back to the shop if more coolant needs to be added also the performance is much better with a 180 degree thermostat and the warm up is faster will definately be better when i get the tranny cooler going im sure oh and does anyone know when the fan should spin up??

Ok here is an update While I'm standing still the coolant temp is around 185 F but if I start moving it goes up to the halfway and even a little bit over sometimes. It was hot out today (86 F) and I do not have a transmission cooler yet, could this be one reason? Is this normal behavior?

check the wiring and the connections to the motor, maybe unplug the connectors and clean them its probably the switch/lever, start there if you hear buzzing and nothing comes out then the spray thing or the hose is clogged, twist it out and unplug it, let the hose hang out and flip the wiper up and then fill up the washer fluid reservoir to full then hit the wash switch a few times and wait for the clog to come out of the hose, if the fluid sprays clean then its the spray thing that needs cleaning also check for any breaks in the lines

Ok I bought a 180 degree STANT SUPERSTAT (along with hoses etc.) and had a shop install it and flush the cooling system. Everything cost around $400 and I will pick it up tomorrow and report the results.

I had the same problem, my friend redid the crimp near the right headlight and I installed a new switch. Problem solved!

Does anybody here recommend to grease the brake shims when lowering the calipers back on? My new front pads include a grease packet with a recommendation to grease the shims but I don't know if I need to since those calipers are tight enough already. When I did the rear pads, I did not put any grease on the shims. Should I take it apart again and get some grease on them too?

I recommend a 13000 BTU (19000 GVW) B&M cooler

ok after i rotated the mirror all the way down and looked into the hole, i found the problem the two top screws that hold the motor mirror mount to the housing are way backed off causing the mirror to wobble now how do i get in there and tighten those screws???

Is there any specific reason why? The OEM spec is 170 and I would like to keep the engine running cool. I would get the 180 since it is cheaper than the 170 of the same brand but I would rather get one that lasts longer and works better be it the 170 or 180.

so should i get a 170 or a 180 one? also do i need to get a new housing or just the thermostat valve itself?

yep dip stick shot out due to heat

if I press on the glass, it feels very squishy should i press harder?

ok should I also get some hoses? where is the best place to get those?

Isn't there an A/T temp warning light on the dashboard? I have one and maybe you can somehow use that circuit to get an actual reading.

It looks like my thermostat is stuck halfway somewhere since I almost overheated the other day. I need some advice on buying a replacement thermostat like what brand to buy and where from anyone that ever replaced one. I was thinking about getting one from NAPA but I don't want to get a defective one.