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ILoveMyPatty

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Posts posted by ILoveMyPatty

  1. Alrighty guys, thanks alot. I really don't feel like messin around with that stupid fan until tomorrow. Thanks again. I'll get a pic of my truck up, in the pictures section in a bit.

  2. Do I really need my engine fan? I'm driving 45 minutes and I don't have the time to screw around putting it back on after the body lift. Can I run the ol' girl without it for that period of time without running into issues, as long as I put the nuts and lock washers back on the pulley?

  3. So, all it is, is the flange that the fan bolts up to? That's minor :) Gives me more time to do my body lift on my time off :P

     

    Oh and for those stupid nuts and washers.... When I did my swap and was putting my fan back on, I had a nut go in between the "crank" pulley? and a belt. Holy fruit did that piss me off. Had to take my belt off and everything. Anyway, I'll check in tomorrow and hopefully have an update. I'll get some before/after pics for the BL as well.

     

    Thanks everyone. Greatly appreciated.

  4. Well, since I have my old engine, I've chosen to use that fan clutch instead of buying new. How tough is it to do this clutch swap? Seems to me like it's just the timing cover that needs to come off, then you can get to the clutch somehow? I removed the timing cover on my old motor, but can't see how to get at that clutch. I can't find my Haynes manual anywhere... so I was wondering if anyone could give me the DL on it. Thanks everyone.

  5. For 87-90 applications, which most likely means that the rearmost body mount bolts will be too short, yes? Excellent. I totally forgot about that, until I just read the How-To on the BL install topic. Son of a... So now I'll have to go get new bolts... I wonder if they'll provide them... hmmmm....

  6. Thanks for chiming in everyone, it's helpful to me. Does anyone know of an approximate cost for a new fan clutch? Now is when I'll ask the question... E-fan, or new fan clutch.....? What would be more practical financially and performance wise?

  7. Alrighty well it sounds like the fan/clutch will get replaced asap then. Should be pretty straightforward, yes? Rad out, fan shroud, unbolt the fan and get to the clutch itself? I'll look in my manual and figure it out. Thanks everyone.

     

    Or do I switch to an e-fan... hmmmm.... With the fan going all the time I've really noticed a loss in power. Kinda sucks as I can't fix 'er right now. But I'll get on it when I can.

  8. Well I swapped my engines and I've been running this one for probably 1500km now, but my stupid fan wont shut off. It's on all the time and it's really getting to my nerves. It's super loud, and dono what to do. Could the clutch be messed up or something? I have no clue.

    Any help is greatly appreciated, but I wont check back on this thread for 3 days... stupid boonies isolation...

     

    Thanks everyone. Hope all is well with all the members here, it's been a while since I frequented the board.

  9. i used the galvanized metal strap. bends pretty easy and just mounted it to pillar on outside. has worked good so far.

    Did you just screw it into the strip that goes around the windshield or what, I'm kinda worried that I'll damage anything to do with the windshield security.

  10. Welcome to NPORA, fellow Interior Pathy owner. I'm in the Savona area, half way between Cache Creek and Kamloops. We own a fishing resort on Hi Hium lake, if that rings a bell. I'll be in Kelowna in January for a Paramedic program... I'm also looking for housing. PM sent RE info on places.

  11. Well, first off, I'd look for a rusty frame (rear wheel well area) and rust under the back seat. Also, check underneath your Pathy (so you don't have to pull up the carpet) for holes in the drivers footwell and underneath the rear seats. There have been several cases of rotted out floors. I'd make sure to check said issues, especially considering the amount of rust that is visible on the exterior of the vehicle. If it's gonna be your offroad rig, and you or a buddy has some experience with SAS... SAS the pig (if you're going to be doing more crawling than mud). Check the timing belt, to see when it has been done last. This would be my first fix or "preventative maintenence".

  12. TTT. Still have no idea how to mount this thing.. so for now it's electrical taped to my door frame... talk about ghettro. Especially embarassed when my girlfriends parents saw it, first time they see my truck and I've got some contraption coming out of my fender and taped onto my door. Wow, a real winner.

    But my bumper sticker explains it all, including my redneckness "No Pavement, No Problem". XD

  13. Alrighty, sounds good everyone. I took 'er on some minor offroad today, about 20 miles of harsh roads, so I'm going to measure each side and crank it up to where it was, or make it even now. The pass side is sitting a little bit lower, about 1/2".

  14. here is the my totally cheap way to put 31" tires. i cranked up my torsion bars and 1/2" ball joint spacer. and used 2" rubber spacer tabs on the rear. i also re-enforced my rubber spacers with 6" metal hose clamp. now i have cheap stock replacement shock on the front and rear. so to prevent rear sag during towing... i use re-enforcement springs on my rear shocks. ie. homemade coil overs. i also don't have any alignment issues. but my steering components are worn out. i think i will install a steering dampener

     

    thanks.

     

    Do you have a pic of your "homemade coilovers"? Kinda curious as to what they look like.

  15. Oh, and I went with the shop vac hose in hopes that when it got cold in the winter it wouldn't crack. I guess we'll see. It may crack easier since it's a thinner material than PVC, but it might not because it's plyable. Hmm..

  16. K, well today I tinkered with the Pathy. Cranked the t-bars and made a snorkel out of 2.25" shop vac hose. Now, how has everyone here mounted it to the a-pillar? I can't figure out how to do it... it's also late so my mind isn't working properly.... well... it never is, but even worse tonight. :tonguefinger:

  17. My digi cam broke, so I wont be able to get pics for a long time. Heh. It's really nothing special right now... haha. Yeah, still stock UCA's, but the alignment doesn't seem to be off that much actually.

  18. Well, today I finally got fed up with looking at my Pathy with 32's and seeing a 1" space between the tires and front fenders. Off to NPORA to print out 88's T-bar re-indexing topic. Outside I go, back the Pathy into the shop and got to work... and within 3.5 hours I'd gained 3" of lift. It was a pain in the arse doin' it, but I got er done. The pass. side adjuster wouldn't come free from the t-bar and the whole thing was moving... I took a look at where it goes into the LCA, and it was coming out of the arm. I marked it there, removed the t-bar, and moved it 2 splines. The drivers side adjuster came free from the t-bar, so that was cool. I ended up moving both t-bars 2 splines, and cranking the bolt down. Now, there's 3/4-1" of a gap between the UCA and the bumstop, and I've gained 3" of height. :shrug: Pretty cool, I thought that with the 3" of height, the UCA would be touching or at least really close to the bumpstop.. The gap I have should be fine, yes? Now the Pathy sits level, and thanks 88 for the writeup. I bow at your feet :beer:

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