slick250

Sorry for the double post

Factory ifs in pathy is way stronger than dana30. I have tortured my ifs for 2.5 years now and it is still hanging in there. Just replaced a couple boots. You have to keep joints clean and greased. Buddies of mine destroy d30s all the time.

Factory ifs in pathy is way stronger than dana30. I have tortured my ifs for 2.5 years now and it is still hanging in there. Just replaced a couple boots. You have to keep joints clean and greased. Buddies of mine destroy d30s all the time.

It looks as though the factory pump is larger than the Wahlbro. I have been researching pumps for mine, and it appears that the factory pump is a 45gph pump. While that rating may be slightly less than the Wahlbro, it may be enough for 300-350HP. I will be making a WOT run with mine with a fuel pressure guage on it and monitor pressure reading. If I have no pressure drop at WOT, I will mo st likely save my money and keep the stock pump. Is the factory pump really that much larger, or does it just look like it in your pic?

Fuel filter? Fuel pump pressure? Ignition timing? Vacuum leaks? Has timing belt jumped? .....lots of basics to check first

20 MPG would be excellent for your application. It will be a huge challenge for more MPG than that. Good luck though.

VG30 engines are notoriously reliable considering what abuse they generally endure. They have a reputation for that and one reason why is they are very heavy engines for their size. Vehicle weight is also fairly heavy, but it is all the heavy rotating mass of this particular engine that makes it hard to get good mileage...even in the VG30DE and VG30DETT turbocharged versions. Nissan may have chosen to sacrifice fuel mileage for a super strong lower end on the 3.0L V-6.

Here is a link of the Pathfinder with all engine parts in place, ready for the sand dune trip. A video of it climbing a couple dunes will be posted soon. My daughter videotaped it and needs to send it to me yet. I didnt get much of it due to me breaking my leg and seperating my ankle before I even got to drive it, so I gave the keys to my son Matt, and he blasted up a couple hills in 2WD and sprayed some sand for the camera, so that will be all I have until my clutch leg heals back up. YouTube under : Twin Turbo Pathfinder

Tread pattern looks like it will be good in sand and snow with good tread life. Not a good digging tire.

560cc injectors should be plenty. Nissan 550ccs are usually enough for 100HP per injector potential! Of course you wont need all that, but fuel delivery should be NO problem...LOL. Good work. Keep it up. I think we may be inspiring a few other members to jump in with us and try some turbo upgrades.

That thought already crossed my mind. I just have to find the right particle screens.

The intercoolers may pick up a little bit of hot air but it is still better than having them full of sand. Keep in mind this will be primarily run in the sand dunes. The air moving through the radiator will still be much cooler than turbocharger outlet temperatures

Engine And transmission was 1800 dollars. Most of the other stuff was purchased through ebay And probably cost about 2000 total. Under 4000 dollars all together . That's not counting the lift kit, new tires or my time.

I got the hood mounted back on and it clears by a fraction of an inch. I'm trying to get the last few things buttoned together so we can take it to the sand dunes this weekend. On 1 of my test drives I turned the boost up real high and it would light the tires from a 10 miles per hour roll on when boost came in. Looking forward to this weekend!

First video

The power steering pump is much different. New pump has dual outlets which you can not just plug. I considered T-ing them together, then finally decided to modify the Pathfinder pump to work on new engine. After getting the pump mounted and the wiring figured out, I was able to start the engine...with the MAF sensor disconnected due to no intake tubes yet. If fired up after I replaced all the injector harness ends due to lots of corrosion in pigtails (very common problem, and I replaced with new design). So it is time to finish intake plumbing.

I purchased a labeling tool and labeled every ECM wire I could. Then I ran all my new/additional wires, and labeled them.

I had to replace the alternator (since somebody in shipping broke it), and modify the bracket for clearance on the engine (frame rail). Now.............ON TO THE WIRING!! The ECM is under passenger seat and had to be removed/replaced, and all wiring changed. There are many more pins in the new ECM, so many wires had to be added and ran clear to engine from under seat. Make sure you have plenty of wiring diagrams..

The engine was removed one last time to install new flywheel and clutch, button up all loose ends behind engine, and install some nice silicone hoses to replace all the rotted rubber ones.

A special bracket had to be fabricated just to lift the engine without damaging anything. A Ford f150 mount was decided upon to use on the drivers side A small corner of rear crossmember had to be removed to clear the starter....It is tight clear back in that area

More pictures of install There is very little steering shaft or brake booster clearance. Here is what it looked like after I finally got it mounted.

Here is the engine going in....one of many attempts..LOL

I will have pics available eventually ......so busy now. Firewall in place w no cutouts ...full fenderwells. Just some bending -tweaking. Setting the engine was a real bittch. In and out 13 times!!!! Lots of challenges on the project, and wait till I show the wiring project .....WOW!

I've been really busy on this project and can now report it is up and running now. Lots of loose ends to finish up but it is CLOSE!!!! I have actually driven it around the block..... I'm getting pretty pumped about this!

Very true very true