arctic_mark

Thanks man, I'll go have another poke around.

OK, probably complete novice questions but . . . Got a body lift planned for my '94 Pathy. Read all the posts about longer HB T-case shifters versus slice'n'splice on a Pathfinder shifter versus bending versus notching the floor etc. All good info. I have an old '92 Pathy as my parts rig so I'm going the cut-and-lengthen route. The rig I'm lifting is an automatic but my parts truck is a manual. So my questions are . . . 1) Are the T-case shifters for the automatic and manual the same? 2) How the bloody hell do you remove the shifter!? I've tried on the manual-box parts rig and got all the points where the links pivot on the transmision casing disconnected but there doesn't seem to be room to pull the linkage off the splines without dropping the T-case and transmission. Do I have to dissasmeble the ball joints that are protected by the rubber boots or should it just simply unscrew somwhere? Haven't looked at the (auto-box) rig that I want to lift yet as its my daily driver and I'm real busy at the moment. There's probably a really simple way, but I'm just being mechanically chalanged. If it just unscrews and I've overlooked it, then I'll really feel kinda stupid!

Don't have any pics at the moment. Will try and get unde rthere and take some to post though

Hey guys Haven't been on here for ages (like since Novemeber last year!) been WAY to busy with work. Anyway got a whole bunch of Autometer gauges to go in my '94 V6 Pathy and a whole bunch of questions too. So, where would be the best place for mounting the sending units for oil pressure, oil temp and water temp? Oil pressure switch port next to the opil filter with a T-fitting for the oil pressure so I can still keep the idiot light? But then where for oil temp? And where's best for water temp - in the hose to or from the rad? Also, for existing mounting ports (e.g. oil pressure switch) does anyone know what the metric thread pattern is so I can get the right NPT adapter without having to taker apart, measure, put back together etc etc. Got the tranny gauge in with two senders (cooler line in, cooler line out) on a rocker switch. Works great, I can see how well my tanny cooler's working! Thanks for your in-put and hopefully I'll be bcak on the forum a lot more now. Cheers Mark

Well, after damaging clutch plates in my auto hubs when changing my CV axles I got me the Mile Marker Premium hubs. Hopefully now I shouldn't get stuck in my own snowy driveway when the hubs refuse to engage! Got the new hubs on my desk and got Thursday off work! Sweet!

Thanks man, does raise the question though . . . Warn, Milemarker or Superwinch?

Basic question, but without taking the hub off (again) and looking my self, what is the spline count on the drive axle of a 1994 SE V6 3 litre 4wd? Want to order the correct manual hubs first time. Thanks Mark

OK. We got everything off and the new axle in on one side no problems. But when it came to re-assembling the auto hub the groove for the snap ring wasn't quite out far enough to get the old ring on. The splined washer and clutch plates weren't pushing back far enough or the end of the axle wasn't sticking out far enough. Ended up busting the splined washer into fragments trying to get the snap ring on. So now I've only got 3 wheel drive. Any ideas why the end of the axle wasn't sticking out far enough? These were brand new axles so maybe there wasn't really a problem just that I should have got a bunch of new snap rings of different thickness that would have fit. Oh well, looks like I'm ordering manual hubs. I hear the Milemarker is pretty good. But no wheeling this weekend, only as a passenger if I can get a free seat

The Haynes manual and the Nissan shop manual talk about selecting new snap rings of the correct thickness and using a dial indicator etc etc. Any need for this or is it OK just to put on the new axle with the old snap rings and not worry about it. I didn't want to go to the parts desk and buy like 6 different snap rings at $8 canadian a shot just in case I needed one.

Yup, that's exactly what I want to do, but don't like the idea of the tranny sucking dry as it pumps the fluid out into the bucket. As far as I can gather, it wouldn't be able to pump new fluid back in unless you pumped it in yourself. Mark

Has anyone used the Motive Products Power Bleeder system to flush and refill their brake fluid? Seen a couple for sale on E-Bay and they look pretty good. It relies on positive pressure in the bleeder pump reservoir to force fluid through the lines. http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html Also, I was thinking, would it work for flushing your ATF? I want to drop the pan, new gasket, flush the fluid while adding an external cooler etc etc. Reading on the forum here I see that you can run the engine and cycle through the gears to pump the fluid out through the line that runs to the cooler in the stock rad, BUT it doesn't suck new fluid back in through the return line. Could you use the power bleeder system to pump fluid into the return line from the cooler to stop the tranny from emptying out, thus truely flushing it rather than just replacing the fluid? Would this cause problems? Has anyone done this? Advice would be great. Cheers Mark

I was thinking that, just after my last post. No way it would improve CV joint angles at all. Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor not a mechanic!

Yeah, that's what I figured, the missing bump stops being the main factor. As for the T-bars, I'm running a Calmini 3" suspension lift wich comes with new UCAs and T-bars to help maintain better CV angles so it shouldn't be too much of a problem. Or that's the idea at least! As for the shock, that's the second mounting eye on a Calmini shock that I've had fail in the last 18 months. Gonna swap those out for some better made ProComps when I replace the damaged bushings and ball joints. Mark

Ruby Falls. South west of Edson (or NW of Nordeg) in Alberta, on the eastern slope of the Rockies. Some awsome wheeling in the area there. The trails must be around 30-40km long, some great booulder crawling, river crossings and huge "jeep-eating" mud holes in places. Was there for teh canada day weekend so it was crawling in quaders. makes a good winter run too if you manage not to break through the ice! Got a whole bunch more pics in my photobucket site if you're interested. Mostly jeeps though as I was busy driving my own rig.

sorry to post twice, the computer crashed as I was posting it the first time.

So, I was wheeling in the mountains in my '94 WD21 over the Canada Day (July 1st) long weekend. Went out with the boys & girls from Northern Alberta 4WD Assoc. A long trail on Saturday over loose river boulers and cobbles, very rough, and like 16 river crossings. Sunday was a great ride up to a mountain top above treeline, but very technical trails, heavily gullied and washed out, super flexy. The result was a busted driver's side front shock (bent stem, doesn't presurize, failed lower mounting eye), missing bump-stops on driver's side U & LCAs, and outer CV boot issues. The passanger side had lost its outer (big) retainer strap and was ozzing grease, the driver's side was ripped and the large retainer had slid inwards. Looked like the CV boots has pinched against the lower control arms, in one case just bustig off and leaving the boot OK, in the other, jamming and casing the boot to twist up and rip. The question is, was this caused by excess travel due to missing bump stops or something else? I've removed the fromt sway-bar and am running a Calmini 3" suspension lift. Should I put the sway-bar back on, run taller bump-stops, or both? Any suggestions> Anyways, here's a few pics of the run, and the damage! On the Ruby Falls Trail Tons of river crossings (sorry its a Jeep but I was taking the picture!) At the end of the trail at Ruby Falls with the NA4WDA Ruby Falls - worth the damage? Busted driver's side CV boot Busted and bent shock

Does anyone know if the mounting bolt holes in the radiator frame have the same pattern on a 1994 WD21 as they have on a late '80s to early '90s Toyota 4x4 ? I want to know if the Flex-a-lite e-fan with the Toyota mounting kit will fit my Pathy rad without any modification. I don't want to mount it through the core. Thanks Mark

could well be, it wasn't below the LOW mark but after bleeding the new caliper and then topping it up, it could well be what sorted out the problem Thanks for all your advice on this guys Mark

Well, got the new caliper on, new pads and bled the system (using my buddy - a big bag of transport chain to keep the brake pedal depressed!) and now she's running fine. But I'm left scratching my head now . . . I've been having problems that when I turn right (in the truck, not walking!!!) , the parking brake warning light, quickly followed by the ABS warning light, had been coming on. Recently they were on all the time. As the ABS sensor is mounted centrally on the rear differential I was reliably informed by pretty much everyone I asked that these warning lights coming on had nothing to do with the seized disc brake, probably a faulty sensor or wiring. But, you've guessed it, I got the brake workig again and now the parking brake and ABS warning light don't come on when they shouldn't. What's the connection!? If it was sensing speed off the pinion then the brake being seized or not shouldn't make a difference, right? I'm confused. Damn it Jim, I'm a head-in-the-clouds academic, not a mechanic!

Thanks for the advice! Pathy's parked, whole new caliper, new rotor and new pads in this afternoon! Mark

Maybe removing just the pads would work? Any advice would be VERY useful as I need to hit the road soon and drive home from work with or without a rear left disc brake! Thanks Mark

I need to overhaul my rear right disc-brake caliper. The piston appears to have stuck, holding one pad to the disc all the time causing the brake to heat up. No biggy to overhaul. But . . . Is it better to drive with the brake stuck on for the next couple of days while I get the parts on order, or should I disconnect the brake line and removed the jammed caliper and run on only 3 brakes? It's my daily driver so I do need to use it brakes or no!!! All advice appreciated. Also, what's the best way to close off the brake line once I disconnect it? A bolt inserted in the end and a hose clamp? Thanks Mark

OK, got a reply back from the Alberta Government. Looks like it was a fairy story after all Never trust a Land Rover mechanic (guy who told me!) But anyway, here's what they wrote me back: Hope this is useful Cheers Mark

Got the e-mail. Thanks Mark

Yeah, I hope its a fairy story too, but as for inspections in AB, the only manditory inspections required (I think) are when you license a vehicle in Alberta for the first time be it from another province or imported. You do need an "inspection" in order to get insurence, but this is a pretty flimsy thing from your garage saying the rig is OK.