Revco

We've chatted about this...but I would concur with the price thing. I don't know that $120 more for better heat retention is a great deal. I figured they're going to be moving the same amount of engine heat better with a 2-1/4" collector & more flow efficient design than the relatively restrictive stock manifold & 2" pipe. The biggest factor for me going with the non-ceramics was the welding issue. I have to have a custom x-pipe for my AT and will likely need to weld the x-pipe directly to the headers. If I had a MT, I would've considered the ceramics 'cause I could've gone with the provided x-pipe bolted to the rest of the system. If heat becomes a big problem for me...$120 can buy me a pretty good fan!

Yeah...I suck. Actually, work sucks. Wish I coulda' been there. We'll catch up next time. I wanna see the pix!

You could buy a decent vehicle cover for the price of 1-2 months shelter rent. Something to think about because it can be used year after year and could be thrown up to do a quick repair in the rain/snow. I would also recommend checking into local ordinance as to how many cars in your yard is too many. Technically it's private property and unless you're running a business...there shouldn't be a problem with three cars. Now, if you have engine's & trannys & blow up dolls for lawn decorations..

Not sure what you're getting at here...it sounds like transmission but I think we need clarification. Are you saying that D/1/2/R are not working at all in any gear? How many miles are on the rig? If the truck doesn't roll in neutral...it's almost sounding like catastrauphic failure of the tranny. Was there a noise or a boom or something?

CaseyT...I just called Jeff down there and he said he's got bungs. I'm thinking of going with the Bosch Universal (Part#15726) at Schuck's online...they've got 'em 10% off online (pick up in store) or around $40. The OE is $117...for $75 in savings, I can justify splicing 3 wires. I could prolly find it cheaper online...but with shipping it's nearly a wash. I've looked underneath and I think I've only got one O2 sensor pre-cat. Couldn't find anything rear of the cat...it's just a straight shot into the muffler. Update: $47.84 exactly - to be picked up in the store

Was surfing the web & found a post in the WD21 forums about common issues on our trucks. One of them was that automatic locks have a tendancy to unlock themselves for no reason at all! I have been going crazy because I've SWORN that I've locked my truck only to come back to find it unlocked. I thought someone had my same wireless remote code ( )...or even worse...my age-of-senility ( :confused: ) has hit me WAAAY early...or all those drugs ( ) & binge drinking really did have a long lasting impact. Come to find out...I just gotta replace some POS plastic parts on the lock cylinders. Ahhhh...now I can better.

That's kind of what I was thinking. I want *all* the old crap out. I'll make sure I pick up a bung...just to eliminate any oversights. Any recommendations on whether I should go with the Bosch OE sensor ($$$!!!) or whether a 3-wire Bosch universal will work OK since I'm doing a complete re-fab? I'm sure I can figure out the universal wiring with a MM.

My Thorley headers should be here in a few days & I'm planning a complete headers-back overhaul of the exhaust. At this time, I want to replace the O2 sensor as well. (Common sense) My question...Does the pipe where the sensor is at typically get replaced & a new hole drilled for the sensor or is the pipe section cut out with reducers installed at either end when going to 2-1/4"+ pipe? I know Nissan has a recommended re-thread tool available for the 22mm sensor which could certainly be procured & provided to my muffler man. Any thoughts on the matter?

If I'm not mistaken, stock T-Stats run around 170 degrees or so. I've seen 180's...but haven't seen any others. When I looked into this, 170 was considered low...180 medium. I'd stick with stock due to the heat...and just make sure your coolant's nice & fresh.

I'm still technically a newbie by post count...and I happen to enjoy the "ass-hat" tangents and rediculous po-ho'ing that goes on around here. I've laughed out-loud at more posts than I can possibly count...you all be some funny peeps.

Listen to CaseyT & the others...trust me. Few hundred for a T-Belt is *much* better than $2K+ for a new engine if it breaks. If you have a shop do it...have 'em do the water pump and pull the rear T-Belt cover to check the cam seals for any leaks. Might think about having them replace your other belts when it comes back together.

I'm not an expert...but it could be a lot of things. Likely suspects would be a need for a tune up, O2 sensor, or possibly bad/loose wiring in one of the engine/sensor harnesses.

That's crazy...I think I'd rather be hit by a car at 40MPH while walking than be in that thing in a crash. Yikes.

Lawsuits for spilling hot coffee on yourself. Oh...wait...that's all ready been thought of.

I got a quote for around $360 install w/ broken bolts and no fabrication...which works out to be about 5 hours of labor. Seems about right to me considering some guys spend an entire weekend (or more) and end up pulling the motor to get 'em installed. In fact, these manifold bolts are so notorious that I've had several shops tell me they weren't interested in the install at all. You could probably shop it and find someone who will do it cheaper. Cheaper isn't always better, though.

Hey skrillaguerilla...that's like my exact PF...same color, same year, same model, same wheels. That doesn't just give me an idea...it's like an "after" shot...only before. Is there a reason that the front wheels are riding so far back? Rami...so you prolly could have gotten away with the flares if you didn't drive like a madman?? That's funny.

That would be kewl, Casey...PM me sometime & we can hook up. I like the idea of the 3" clearance...just concerned about the look & MPG's. That Calmini kit is sweet. Thanks for the pix Rami...I guess I was fortunate and able to run 31x10.5's without needs to remove the fender flares. I would say that look is right on the border of what I consider OK for a lift to tire relationship. It's weird...without the flares, that rig has a strinking resemblance to a Ford Bronco II. No offense...just an observation.

I found some pix online w/ JCG coils and what looked like my size tires (couldn't read the walls) and it didn't look bad. I detest that big lift/little tire look. Raised that rear end noticably but didn't look awkward. I'd assume w/ same tires before & after install would mean at *most* he'd have 31's. As far as what I want feel-wise compared to stock...it's hard to say because my stock setup feels a bit on the squishy side (maybe that's just PF's). More firm than that is good...but I also don't want to get teeth-chatter from Spokane's cruddy roads. I'm thinking about pairing with Rancho 9000's to get the adjustable ride since it's a multipurpose rig.

True...but the idea is to upgrade the suspension (idler arm braces, springs, etc). I suppose I could upgrade to "better than stock" springs and upgrade to "better than stock" idler arms and then crank the T-Bars. That's an idea...

I'm looking at suspension uprades...and it looks like the overwhelming majority of the kits provide a 3" lift. I'm $600+ into brand new tires and don't want to uprade to bigger at the moment. Does anyone have any pics of their rigs w/ a 3" lift and 31x10.5 tires? (Preferably the 88-95 body style) I'm trying to imagine it...and I'm not sure if it'll look right. Anyone know of any kits w/ a 1-2" lift? I found some springs that would only raise it 2"...but I like the idea of a kit w/ all the parts included.

Thx for the tip, Maritime! Got a few places to check out, thanks to you all! As far as the tuneup...yeah...I could certainly do it myself. I'm at a place in my life these days though where it's worth it for me to pay someone for the time & hassle. After a 60+ hour work week...wrenching on my rig just doesn't sound appealing, know what I mean? I'd add the O2 sensors, tranny & diff fluids, fuel filter, PCV...what am I forgetting?

That sounds like fun....thx for the invite. I've wanted to check the ORV area out out since I found out about it...just haven't had the time. Wouldn't mind meeting up anyway just to check out the rigs and maybe get some . Most pressing issue at the moment is exhaust system & full tuneup...but thinking about some steering/suspension upgrades in the coming months. I'm still trying to figure out what I want. I need to find a balance between trail worthiness and efficiency/comfort since it's my daily driver and I travel quite a bit.

Just the other day I let my tank get *WAY* down...over $50 to fill!!! Ouch! Every gas saving mod will pay for itself pretty quick these days. If you spent $1K and got a +5MPG increase (feasible)...that'd pay for itself in under 2yrs with 20K per year driving. Faster if prices continue to rise. Just a thought.

Thanks CaseyT! That sounds like the kind of exhaust shop I'm looking for...will entertain "anything" for a price. It's kewl that they may be willing to slap in a part or two while they're under there and have things torn apart. I'll pop in here soon...gotta get the Thorley's on order since it'll take a bit to get 'em. Thanks for the tip!

Responded to the PM...but I'm on the west edge of the valley...8th & Theirman(ish). Heard about the site through an unreproducable train of web pages while researching my manifold issue and other mods available. Probably through some search string used on Google or maybe AskJeeves. Glad to have found you guys! It just rules there is a forum out there for use 'Finder owners.