hoohaa

You are confusing the original TK1 mod with the modern mod which completely removes the old ball joint ends. My CLs have completely new sleeves that replace the old ball joint. These sleeves have spherical bearings pressed into them. This mod is also done to both sides of the centerlink, different than the original TK1 mod. Guys, this is not really a "how-to" thread on centerlink mods. This is a thread in which I am offering a service. If you want info on how to build your own CL then that's great, and I will help you, but let's talk about that in a different thread. The only special tools required to install one of my centerlinks are a 5/8" drill bit and a drill. You will need to drill out the idler arm and pitman arm holes to 5/8" and then simply bolt up the centerlink with the included hardware: two bolts, two castle nuts, and two cotter pins. The pitman and idler can be drilled out either on or off of the vehicle. Personally I took mine off and drilled them out on a vise. I'm not very active on this board, but I have been involved in the Nissan community for a number of years now. I was active for a couple years over on the AC board, but now I like to hang out over at my local club's board. Also, I've got a couple "vouches" regarding my centerlinks from people over on the "Aftermarket Corner" section of N4W if you don't know who I am. I will be building a CL for Slick soon so you guys can hear a report from someone you are more familiar with.

Ordering instructions: I charge $225 with a $100 core fee. You can send in your stock CL and not have to deal with the core fee. If you pay the core fee you have 45 days to return the core to receive a refund. I am running very low on Xterra centerlink cores because I haven't received cores back. Shipping to the lower 48 is free. I accept paypal to the following address: rbcscapegoat@yahoo.com Please include an extra 3% if you use paypal to cover their seller fees. I also accept check or MO. I will wait for the check to clear before sending the link. I don't offer multiple "stages" of kits. I have never seen evidence that this is necessary. In fact, everything I have seen and experiences points to the TREs being the weak point. The TREs will act as a fuse and will break/bend WAY before you run into the kind of forces that require double sheer pitmans and idlers. I DO, however, recommend a simple idler arm brace if you plan to wheel or otherwise abuse your truck. I don't make idler arm braces. I offer Hardbody, Pathfinder, Xterra and Frontier CLs. Give me a hollar at rbcscapegoat@yahoo.com if you are interested. My centerlinks come shipped with all necessary hardware, including two grade 8 bolts drilled for cotter pins, two snazzy castle nuts, four washers, and two cotter pins. All hardware is heavy duty nickel or zinc plated stuff. Installation instructions: Remove your old centerlink Step 1: Remove the four cotter pins securing the four 19mm castle nuts. Step 2: Using a 19mm socket remove the four castle nuts. Step 3: Use either a BFH or a tie rod end puller to pop loose the four ball joint studs. At this point the centerlink should be loose from both the idler arm and the pitman arm, and both tie rod ends should be out of the centerlink. Step 4: Once the centerlink is removed please toss it back in the box, tape it up, and ship it back to me so I can make one for the next guy! Drill the Idler and Pitman Step 1: Decide how you want to proceed. You have a few options. You can either do it yourself or have it drilled at a machine shop for a case of beer or send it to me and I'll drill it out and ship it back to you for free. Step 2: If you decide to do it yourself you can drill the idler and pitman arm holes using a hand drill with the arms still on the vehicle (not recommended), or you can pull them off and do it in a drill press or a vise (I recommend doing this). 5/8" drill bits are available from hardware stores and big box retailers like Northern Tool or Tractor Supply. You are enlarging the stock tapered hole to 5/8" to receive the new grade 8 bolts. This is a much more difficult task than drilling thinner steel with a smaller bit. With bits larger than 1/2" you really have to turn the bit slowly or you will overheat it and ruin it in no time. It's really best to pull off the arms and drill them out using a drill press at low RPM. If you just run the 5/8" bit through using a standard single speed 1/2" hand drill at full speed you WILL burn up your bit before you can drill both holes. If you aren't comfortable doing this then plan on pulling the arms and taking them to the local machine shop or mechanic. Install the new centerlink Step 1: If you removed the pitman and idler arms, replace them now. Step 2: Place the new centerlink ends above the idler and pitman arms and drop both bolts down through one washer each and through the centerlink end and the idler and pitman holes. Step 3: Slide the remaining two washers over the bolts and tighten the castle nuts. You will need to torque these castle nuts down at least 150 ft. lbs. Step 4: IMPORTANT insert the cotter pins through the castle nut slots and through the 1/8" hole which is predrilled through the bolt, and then bend the long part of the cotter pin back over the end of the bolt, to ensure that the centerlink bolts cannot loosen. Step 5: Insert the tie rod ends into the centerlink through the bottom, torque them down, and replace their cotter pins. If the taper is reversed and they will not insert from the bottom, flip the centerlink over. Congratulations, you are finished. Take the vehicle in for an alignment and enjoy! Please email me with any questions!

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Clutch fan and shroud?

I was in O'reilly's today and I noticed some generic brand 85W90 GL-4 ONLY gear lube. The price on it was $3.78 I think. I have bought gallons and gallons of Redline GL4 from Summit at around $7 per quart, simply because I didn't have any place locally to buy GL4. I would still probably buy the Redline if it were my manual transmission, but this is still a good deal.

good grief, sounds like you received quite a beating. Have you been taking care of your truck? Sounds like she's upset with you.

Has anyone had any experience with using other coils? I have heard of people using early bronco 5.5" lift coils for 6" of lift on the WD21, and YJ lift coils, but I haven't heard any other options.

I want to include the invoice and the bill of lading so that no one can accuse me of lying to try to hurt PRT's business.

This was also posted on Pirate, but I thought it would be even more appropriate here. I wanted to let everyone here know about the experience I had with Phoenix Remanufactured Transmissions last year. I purchased a rebuilt manual transmission for my 1988 pathfinder last year on eBay from Phoenix Remanufactured transmissions for $800. The pathfinder is my daily driver, so I needed the transmission back promptly. The salesperson I spoke with on the phone before purchasing the transmission assured me it would be back very shortly. I did not receive the transmission for over one month. I demanded they refund my shipping charge, and they gave me back $50, which was roughly half of it. The transmission came to me with a bad third gear. It seems the third gear synchro wasn’t pressed on correctly. I called the company soon after I installed it and found the problem, and they told me to send it back whenever I had a chance. It was a month before the one year warranty was up that I first had the chance to take it out and send it back. (I had to pay for shipping, which was $100 something). I noted the markings that were stamped into the transmission, so I would know if I received back the same one. I did, the markings were the same. Not only that, but I received back the same transmission with the exact same problems. The transmission still popped out of third gear while decelerating. The transmission had been stripped and repainted, but I don’t think they even opened it up. I called PRT, spoke with someone who sounded like a receptionist. She couldn’t find the person I needed to speak with, and after she returned from trying to locate him, she told me that I would have to remove the transmission and send it back again. I told her that was not going to happen, and I demanded a full refund. She told me they had to verify that the transmission did have problems, so I offered to take it to a shop of their choosing so the shop could verify for them (if they would foot the bill). She then started repeating basically the same thing every time I tried to reason with her, that they couldn’t do anything until I sent it back. There is no possible way I will send the transmission back to them a second time. I have already lost a lot of money from dealing with this, I refuse to risk having the same trick pulled on me once again and losing my shipping charge again. I am in Texas and they are located in Arizona. I guess that means I can’t take them to court (easily) since I am out of their state. I paid with a credit card, through an eBay auction. I need advice. What do I do? I want my money back, that is the least they can do for me. I don’t consider the BBB legit, I don’t think they are going to help me at all. Who can I talk with? Could this be considered mail fraud? What should I do?

but...

Sorry, I am just trying to be helpful to people seeking knowledge about the LSD mod. I don't keep track of everyone's petty disputes and likes and dislikes of other Nissan enthusiasts. If I linked to someone's site that you dislike, well, sorry. sssh

yeah, I did some searching and was surprised by how much information I found. For anyone interested in this in the future, I have included all the links I have found so far, I'm sure there are more, if you know of others, please post them up. (Just trying to eliminate the dead-ends caused by having so many different discussion boards). http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/lsdtech.html http://nissan4wheelers.com/groupee/forums?...=5276043182&p=3 http://mywebpages.comcast.net/xterra/tech/LSD/ http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/lsd1.asp http://www.nissanoffroad.net/messageboard/...p?TOPIC_ID=6063

Does anyone know where to find more information on this? Brent notes that people have different opinions about how many disks to add and where to add them, but he doesn't say what he did. After doing this mod, with x number of extra plates/disks, how much better would the LSD perform? Would it act like a locker, or would it just limit the slippage a bit? If noone chimes in, I may give Brent a call and chat with him about the benefits. This would be a great low buck alternative to a locker if it works well.

thanks for the replies gentlemen. :gossip:

Just wanted to verify this again for future searchers, M10 1.00 is the correct thread type for both front and rear. I was told this earlier today, and it's verified here. I can't wait to get my lengthened rear brake line on!

Is is a M10 1.00 or a M10 1.25 ? I found some speed bleeders at O'reilly and I don't have my manual here to check which thread spacing it is.