jjdwyer

Any one have some suggestions for limited slip differential gear oil. What additive do you use other than the Nissan recommended one?? Jason

I will third the MAF or is the fuel pump running????

I just have to say any vehicle will do all of the above mentioned. If you dont take care of the paint and under body it will rust, as it is metal. The front end will wear out when you dont replace parts that are worn out, and your light swich is not the only problem you have with it, if it burns out every week, and your 4 link suspension is rubber bushings that your problably never have to replace again. How much oil did your old bronco burn, and did you like the front end in it. Aren't the ball joints a pleasure to change every year, and if you had the automatic did you enjoy it slipping and burning up every 100km. And the intake manifolds rotting away because they dont like the antifreeze ford put in them. Yes broncos are great...

How deep did you go in? If your air box is full, I think your cylinders may be full of water too? Don't even try to start it until you check this out. If it rolls over and the pistons try to compress water your gonna do major engine damage I highly doubt that your computer will be okay after it was wet while running, your in deep doo doo. play with the big boys, pay like the big boys.......

Perfect, thanks

Hey, Any one know how many different differential gear ratios came stock in the pathfinders between 1990 - 1995 models, if any?? Jason

Have you checked your front end lately, like before you did this. It looks just like you has a worn out tie rod and decided to crap out when you did that. This can happen anyone that lets front ends get a little too loose. Jason

hey, You could have a million and one problems there. But first of all you have to look at a few things. First look at your air intake pipe that goes form your Mass Airflow to the intake. Is this cracked at all, or any holes? Do you have any hoses off that go onto the intake pipe? Are your clams loose that hold this pipe on? Second, look at your idle air control motor located under the throttle body housing. Is it clean or working?? This will cause these problems. Jason

Totally safe, i had p225/70/15 on mine prior to puting the 31's on. The one thing I did have to do, however, was turn out my steering stoppers a bit. The tires would turn so sharp that they would hit the side of the frame. Just turn out the adjustment and you will be fine. You may not even require doing this. jason

Im not sure if you know you have to hook a relay up along with your switch but you do. Your switch goes to your low amp side of your relay to turn the relay on and off, then the high amp wires go from the relay to your lights. Its pretty easy. Ground - Low amp positive to trigger the relay from switch + Full time positve from battery + Positive from relay to lights +

If i hear moaning on a vehicle after i have just installed a timing belt it usually suggests that it is two tight. It may go away yes, or it can cause premature wear of the belt and the pulleys jason

Either put one on on your roof in those baskets, or mount one like from factory. But that will take a quite abit of fabrication....another suggestion make one off your trailer hitch if you have like the reciever kind....

Take your idle air motor off, unplugging it wont do anything if it is broke. Take a look at it see if it is all carboned up. Move the valve inside then put it back on. See what this does. your maxima may even have the same one........ And have you done anything with your egr valve??? 2.9 litre ford engines have the same problem you are having when either the idle air control motor is dirty restricting movement or siezed, the other thing that causes them to idle up and down is the egr valve sticking?

just more thoughts, did it run worse after you did your tune up?? Did you butt connect your ground wire to your mass airflow or did you solder it?? If you butt connected it your asking for trouble because of resistance values will change. 1) When it is running rough are you noticing any black smoke out the tailpipe?? 2) Did you check your idle air control motor??? They also have a tendency to be sticky with age. 3) I have seen ignition coils jump fire from the coil to the block, and cause this problem. And not from the wire, but the coil itself, cracked? 4) A distributor not grounded will cause many funny results. 5) What happens if you put your truck in limp mode or base timing?? Will it run better then? 6) Does your idle increase when you put your a/c on, or turn your steering wheel?? The idle air control motor should bring the idle up a bit. 7) Does your engine turn off fast, like possibly have some bearings done in something say alternator that is putting a load on the engine? 8) Im not sure, is your egr sensor computer controled or vacuum? Possibly stuck, hit it with a hammer before you take it off while idling? 9) Im not sure if you friend did the hammer test or not, but with the engine running lightly tap the MAF, EGR, IAC, with a small hammer and see if things change. 10) Did you check your PCV valve??? 11) If you remove a vacuum hose your idle should increase, does it? 12) You say that this occurs when your engine is at normal temperature, you could be having a computer problem, the pcm doesnt really start adjusting any ratios of fuel until you have reached normal operation temperature. Prior to this, your engine is running on set values and none of your sensors are actually working, Your oxygen sensor will not work until it reaches a certain temp, cant think of the exact temp off the top of my head. Did you replace your O2 sensor with an el' cheapo or a good one? What does your wiring look like tha goes to your 02 sensor?? Coolant temperature sensor also has an important role, it helps adjust the injector pulse width. Is your coolant level low, coolant temp sensors dont read steam, only liquid. 14) Run a jumper from ground to the base of your distributor, and maybe your MAF sensor. Possibly one from your battery to you block as well. 15) Light a match and see how long it takes to burn......... Good luck Jason

Hey, Did you happen to check your air intake pipe from the mass airflow sensor to the throttle body? If there is the smallest crack or hole this will cause the problems that you are experiencing. If the air is entering after the mass airflow sensor, the sensor will not no that the extra amount of air is entering the engine and therefore the engines computer will not compensate for it. You will experience a fluttering idle and evenutally it will stall. If you need a quick fix of this just use some duct tape until you purchase a new pipe. Something my automotive teachers in college used to always tell me, look at mechanical basics (air, fuel, spark, compresion) before you look at sensors and electronics. jason

It could be a million and one things, leaking gas line, fuel tank, fuel rail... you will have to check it out more. The injector if it was leaking gas into the combustion chamber you would have a poor running truck nd lots of black smoke out the tail pipe, and if it was leaking where it attaches to the fuel rail you would have a lean condition and cause the idle to be higher than normal

umm not 100%, possibly up near the front of the vehicle near the Y pipe or??? couldnt tell you. Your best bet go to a dealer and look under a new one. You do realize you will have to weld it back on right? Look for broken welds some where along the exhast is my only advice

Yep your right on that, ford do the same thing on there high end products. This is attached to the exhast systems to stop vibration and also reduces loudness of the exhaust It is a exhaust vibration densor or i just always called it an exhaust weight. It doesnt hurt to have it off unless you notice a small vibration or your exhaust has become a little more "throaty"