NissanPerson

Well, I'd begin by first checking the brakes since they stop the car and stopping can sometimes be important. If they are ok (both front and rears) then crawl under the vehicle and adjust the e-brake cable...I know I did it about 5 years ago and I think I took the console off inside (or maybe that was to adjust the auto tranny gear selector thingy) either that or I think you have to go under the car basically right under where the e-brake is inside and tighten the nut things under there to tighten the cable. Someone can verify this for me, it has been a while since I've done it. Anyway, if the brakes are bad then obviously have them replaced and they should (but I'd tell them anyway) adjust the e-brake. If you do them yourself (which isn't too hard) then adjust them using what little advice I gave you and what people add to my area of lacking knowledge. I think they say it should click about 5 times??? That sticks in my head for some reason, but I'm sure I'm way off!

(crashes through garage door after starting car in drive)......yeah, we're all intelligent enough

I've never had problems with rust. Did you drive through water ever or anything? I"m sure that could cause it.

Well, it sounds like you could fix it by not using your clutch... I don't know much about manuals, but a gut instinct guess would be some sort of bearing or something in the clutch if it goes and comes by pushing it in and letting it out. Other than that, I haven't a clue.

Never burns a drop? I know mechanic people too and they say EVERY car uses oil...there is always a little bit that gets past the engine parts and spit out the exhaust, usually just not noticeable until you get into a couple thousand miles on your oil change. So, if you aren't burning ANY after 5K I want YOUR ENGINE! Haha. Plus, I just Googled it and found NUMEROUS websites stating that if your car is using oil to use synthetic since it takes more abuse before it wears down. I suppose there's a difference between using and burning oil since burning would be actual blue smoke spewing out and using it just being normal "usage". Plus, my brother, being a mechanical engineer and knowing WAY too much about cars, has told me that due to the pressure that oil is put into engines at and due to normal wear and tear on an engine every car uses oil, it's just a matter of how much. So, don't worry if the car uses oil unless it is a massive quantity. If, after 3,000, you add 1/2 a quart, that isn't that bad, especially if your car has a moderate number of miles. If, on the other hand, your car uses a quart every thousand and it's a Nissan, then maybe it's worth looking into. Plus, my brother has told me that due to the increase in horsepower of many new smaller engines (I believe the 2001 Pathy has 245 or something out of a V-6) and the fact they are pushing the limits, oil has a tendency to be used more because of the heat and other effects that squeezing every last drop of power out of a small engine has on its components. This does make logical sense to me. So, if your car is using oil, I don't know how much it takes to bring it back up to where you had it when it was changed, it shouldn't be of concern unless it is A LOT of oil. Example: change the oil, remember EXACTLy where it is on the dipstick and then check it every once in a while. After 3,000 miles if it is down and takes 1/2 a quart, I really don't think that's a big deal. If, after 1,000 miles it needs a quart, then start worrying a little more. You can say "and never burn a drop" all you want, and I'm not going to argue, because I KNOW every car uses oil, it's just a matter of how much. And a lot depends on how you use your car...pulling trailers, highway miles, town miles, etc. So, if it is using what you believe to be excessive amounts, take it to a rebuild shop and have them rebuild it (or do it yourself). Good luck!

I only use synthetic during the cold months because it makes starting A LOT easier and I've never had trouble with burning oil. But, after 3,000 miles (since you said changed at 41,000 and now 44,000) I would expect to have to add some oil to almost any car. I don't know about the '01's but I don't think it's uncommon for any of our 3 Pathy's (Mom's, Dad's, and mine) to be fairly close to the low mark, if not below it, especially if most of the miles are in town (after 3,000 miles). I do know that ours ('90's years) only hold 3.5 quarts, so burning even 1/2 a quart after 3,000 (which isn't abnormal at all) is going to lower the level quite a bit since that's a fairly high percentage of total oil in the vehicle. Anyway, I keep mine changed every 3,000-4,000 so if it's low I just change it! Good luck.

What are the symptoms and/or reason you have needed them resurfaced? That would help in determining what your problem is.

$350 for a switch? I paid $90 I think. Sheesh, that's ridiculous.

Thought of one more thing since you said you just changed belts about 2,000 miles ago. If it sounds like belts I would guess they are slightly loose. When I put new belts on I've found I have to tighten them after they are "broken in." If you think that's what it is give them a slight adjustment...just not too tight as that can damage the bearings and whatever else in the parts they turn.

Is it a brake squeaking?

2-3 grand? I thought it was like $500...weird. Anyway, you might want to talk to someone but I know we stuck the new R-134 or whatever it is in our Suburban and it had the old system. My dad called a refrigeration place, they work on businesses and whatever, and an old mechanic friend he knew and they both said they put the new stuff in the old systems. BUT I DON'T KNOW IF THIS WOULD WORK IN A Nissan. So, check first. Call around and whatever but you might be able to get away without converting to all the new crap. It'd be easier anyway, and our Suburban has worked for 2 years without problems. Anyway, just thought I'd pass the info.

I'm sure they'd be fine with winches, although I personally don't know. But they are great, no acid, last forever, (compared to regular batteries) from my experience you can discharge them completely and charge them back up and they work as good as new (at least as far as I am concerned). So yeah, they cost more but you'll get more life out of them and you'll like it better I'm sure. Enough rambling from me. GET ONE!

I've found the easiest way is to pull it out from underneath the car. 88 can vouch for me or tell me i'm stupid. But I can get one in and out in about 45 minutes, and I've only done a couple of them.

Oh, my bad, it's not necessarily cheap pads, but what they're made out of. Organic/metallic and so forth. So if it bothers you put different pads on the rear and see if that helps...also inspect the brake components and make sure they aren't somehow not working properly. And warped rotors ARE usually caused from high temperatures...aka either a stuck brake or someone with bad driving habits, as far as I know. And since your wife is driving the car maybe you need to hide in the back to see if the rides the brakes when you're not with... And if she doesn't then you need to figure out why they are overheating...but it sounds like you put new rotors on anyway, so that problem should be good for a while. But for the rears I would just change pads and turn the drums down or get new ones if the squeaking bothers you. And I would ASSUME that would take care of it.

Oh, my 88 did that while it was alive. When I'd put the brakes on the first time they'd really grab...driving out of the driveway was fun with the whole whiplash aspect. Of course I bought that car used and it came that way. I know what you're talking about. But, I don't know what causes that. My rotors weren't warped but I had new brakes put on and they were fine. It seemed to do it worse after a rain or during very humid days. I figured it had something to do with moisture. As far as the squeaking rears, I'm assuming you've checked to make sure they aren't worn out, that makes more of a nails on chalkboard sound from my experience. Other than that I guess a lot of cars have squeaking noises from brakes at times. Just a little squeak here or there isn't a big deal if it's when you apply them, in my opinion. But if it's really loud and annoying I'd just maybe have the drums turned down and put new pads on. It's relatively easy and cheap if you do it yourself. It's tough to say without hearing the squeaking. Someone else may have an idea though.

Unless I carelessly passed it over, where do you live? That's probably the biggest question in deciding whether or not you need 4WD. A snowy climate, it's nice. Otherwise, if it snows twice a year you don't need it.

Funny thing. I just had new steering put in mine and they supposedly aligned everything....well, when I let go of the wheel it takes a sharp left. So, needless to say, it's going back since the tires all have the same air pressure. Wouldn't you think test driving a car after you fixed it would catch that?

Isn't squeaking usually caused from cheap brakes? Not sure, I think that's what I've heard though. If the rotors warp that badly maybe you need to look at your driving habits. Do you ride the brakes or anything of that sort? Or are you one of the people who does 40 until 2 feet before the stopping point and then slams them on? That can have a lot to do with overheating and warping brakes. Personally, I've never had problems with warped rotors on mine. Anyway, that's just my input. Someone else may have better ideas...wait, I KNOW someone else probably has better ideas.

I don't know what the newer model shifters are like, but if it goes into 4wd and the light comes on it's probably 4HI. By .."I can't seem to shift the lever the other way..." is 4LO towards the dash on the new ones? Or are you saying you can't shift it out of 4WD??? Anyway, like the previous post you usually need it in neutral and really have to monkey with them to get them in 4LO. And never use 4LO unless you're doing serious off-roading or you're seriously stuck. And then it usually just makes it worse anyway Also, don't use 4WD AT ALL on dry pavement...it causes quirky handling and will wear your 4wd out faster than you can sneeze if you do it a lot. But shifting, yeah, I do mine only when I'm stopped, and then I creep forward just because I baby my cars, but if I'm in 2wd and I get bogged down I will throw it in, I just don't like the noises it makes sometimes. They give me bad shivers up my spine knowing what I'm doing to the gears. But usually the recommended is 25 or so mph and I think not driving over 55 or 60 with it in 4WD. Of course those are guidelines so you can either go safer by babying it or not care and disregard them. But, if you plan on keeping the car for a while or want to make any money selling it I'd probably tend to be nice to it.

Go to www.kbb.com to get the book value. Then, find out what's been replaced and what would probalby need to be. If he doesn't have records, assume everything needs to be done. But, if he's kept it in good shape and has relatively new parts in it he'll probably want close to book value. Anyway, just use common sense.

I figured it was temp sensitive since every Pathfinder I've driven doesn't shift into lock-up when it's -30 unless you've driven around A LOT. When I first got my car I counted 5 gear changes...one from about 0-15, one from 15-25, one from 25-35, one from 35-45 and then really low one (I'm guessing lock up) from 45+. I always was interested in why the 4spd seemed like a 5spd. Anyway, I don't know anything about these trannies except I have noticed they tend to overheat A LOT when driving down newly graveled roads and into a wind. Too much resistance I guess. And, they also seem to lose reverse at about 125k or so. At least the 3 my parents and I have owned and the numerous ones people we know have owned. But I bet 88offroad doesn't have to worry about lock up since I think he's the one with the picture with his reverse lights on. Hey, at least I think I'm funny.

Yeah, that's about right. I think I paid $200 the last time I had mine done.

If you haven't in a while I would just because it's cheap and easy. As far as brands, I've gotten them through NAPA but I'm sure other people know better brands. I have seen that some brands have really thin metal in them and I'm sure they wouldn't last as long. Anyway, I'm sure someone will know a brand that's really good. I usually go through NAPA because I haven't had major problems with parts through them from my experience and their prices are usually decent.

Question for 88offroad: Are you sure your belts aren't pulling too hard on the pulley or misaligned or something causing them to fail? Beccause if not, you're one unlucky dude! Or, maybe I'm just lucky with my alternators.

I just bought a used '92 with a couple problems. Well, maybe more than a couple. It needs brakes, timing belt or chain, whatever it has, (belt I think), plugs, the usual stuff. But, the 4WD is also messed up. I got it for a very cheap price, less than half of book value and it's pretty loaded, and I was expecting to have to put a couple dollars into it. The problem is when you put it in 4WD it makes this nasty groaning, moaning, grinding sound and doesn't engage. Well, I went underneath and a shaft is very loose and dripping fluid. I'm assuming some sort of main input shaft in the front differential thingy...haven't looked in my book to see exactly what they call it. Anyway, since it looked like a long, pain in the butt job, I will probably let a mechanic do it, but was just wondering if you guys had any ideas as to what might be wrong. I am assuming the guy before me beat it up pretty badly, although the engine and tranny are fine.