Clayman

Hey guys! Haven't been on in awhile. It was just my computer that died... not me Finally got a new one... so I'll be back on here bothering you guys for info. Been busy though... 2 freightliners wrote off at work. My car got hit last week. Welding exams. wife took off to Ontario for a week.... her dad's sick Been busy...really busy. Good 2 be back on the computer finally!!!! Clayman

LMAO! well you could always just put a cup holder on your dash.... when your coffee lands in your lap, you've gone too far! That's classic Rami .... I love demented people! Take'er easy! Clay

Never seen one of these before. It'll tell you if your upside down Item# 8006723935 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-88-89-90...006723935QQrdZ1

What year JGC are the coils off of? should be able to find some shocks for less than that. Are those Ranchos? should just be able to go with a shock 3 inches longer and fairly stiff. ( Yes, i know I said it. geez. ) I was thinking of trying some Munroe Sensatracs. I dunno. CM

I just finished tearing out my centerlink tonight... PITA! Here's a tip though, make a little spacer out of a chunk of pipe jack up on the CL close to the end....just a little bit... loosen the nut but don't take it off... tap on the arm with a hammer and pop! Just like doing a steering wheel. I just cut my inner tie rod ends with a grinder and zip disk because I'm going to replace anyways... broke lock nuts first. Just in case someone's doing their first one. Or if you don't care about the BJ boots just slam'em off with a pickle fork. Yeah I'm just going to whip up a L&P style CL... I've got access to Machinists who owe me at work, and I'm a welder by trade. Hah! I going to whip up something else as well.... I think you could easily just piggy back some 3/4" T1 plate on a 4140 1" shaft and be as strong or stronger than stock. I'm going to weld one up and put it in the press and see what she'll take. Who knows maybe I'll get ambitous and make a new idler arm while I'm at it. I don't think I'll bother with the P-arm... looks pretty sturdy to me. Anyways,.. will update... I'm right in the middle of building a deck, and putting a crane truck together at work right now, so it may take a bit to get some puppy making time. Take Care, Clay

Sealed bearing unit on the fronts.... I don't think you can repack them.... can you? My pathy is such a write-off I haven't got there yet. Rubber squeel eh.... Backer plate, broken sway bar link, balancing valve in master cyl. pushing a pad out., indicator tab on the pads bent in...... hmmm I'd just keep spinning till ya find it. TC, Clay

hey '88, Yeah I'm a bit of a suspension virgin. I don't like dealing with them. But I've got issues that need to be taken care of. It's kinda forced my hand to get under there and figure out how it works. I actually got out there today, jacked it up and stared at it for a while. That L&P stuff is nice ... but It's all stuff that I can build in an hour or so. I've got access to just about every type of steel under the sun and I've got a Brand spankin new tig machine showing up right away. I'll whip up a few prototypes and test them in my rig. There's no reason you shouldn't be able to come up with a CL for about $50. Yeah you could sell it for $200, but how many people are actually going to buy one? Like half a dozen? whoopty. Give me a couple weeks, I'll have a jig whipped up and a couple versions made. I'll be posting! Take Care, Clay

Yeah but you also gusseted your idler arm '88.....an idler arm brace doesn't really do squat for a factory I-arm you'll just bend it. That's a nice design by the way 88! you chopped it and put a bigger bushing in too.. looks like. CM

yeppers... Canada. I'll just pick up a new center link and change it out... I think I'll build a half decent one that won't wear out in the future though. What is it that wears out on them? the ball joints on the link or the bolt holes where tie rods connect? It would be better if you could use some bolt-on ball joints on some EN-30b brackets, the holes wouldn't wear, and you could just change out the ball joints. What do you think? TC, Clay

Hmmmmm... I've only got about an eighth of an inch flex up and down with the wheels jacked up in the air. Just enough to notice it wiggle. When it's down on the ground with the weight on it, I can't really flex it by hand. Am I still screwed?

Take your foot off the brake............groan!!! Sorry couldn't resist. That was bad!

Ok, I was confused I thought it was a secondary to what I thought was a tranverse link. Apparently there's only one link and that's it! It's kind of a crappy steering setup isn't it. I checked all my ball joints, tie rod ends and joints.. all tight. I've got a little up and down on the center link.... but I don't have a dampner on right now either. I think I'm going to be OK once I get the dampner on there. Sorry for the stupid question? Everyone calls it something different as well, doesn't help. Take Care, Clay

OK.... I'm missing some steering parts here. I'm missing a steering damper I know that, but I don't see anywhere where a centerlink hooks up to the tie rods or transverse rod. I've been hunting for a diagram, but can't find anything. It's hard to fix stuff when things are missing and you don't know what it's supposed to look like. Take Care, Clay

http://rangerusa.com/amateur.html You should look into the Ranger 6 meter ham radios if you really want some range. They can do a hundred miles or better. They are ham radios.... but are easily converted into a cb by moving a few jumpers inside.... they're more or less made to do this from factory. And yes you should have a ham license to operate one but... if you 'wink wink' keep the power down to legal limits and stay in the CB frequency range you're legal. Just click the link above and check out the 2950,2970,5054... all conversion friendly. Take Care, Clay

Sorry for the late reply, getting busy at work! Thankyou for all your replies. I was just concerned going up that it may become a little on the tippy side. I was thinking a 3 or 2 inch backspace would give me a little more width and stability. I'd rather just get the backspace on the rims right now, rather than adding a spacer plate later. Thanks again for all the help, now I just got to decide on which tires to get. TC, Clay

How's it running now? I have an 87 Pathy w/ a 4 wire pre-heated single O2... and it runs like hell without it. the idle's all messed up and and she chugs like a farm truck. Take Care, Clay

I want to put some 33x12.50x15's on my pathy... but just for off-roading not everyday. So since my pathy is so skinny I want to get some width. I'd just like to know what anyone else has used for backspacing on their rims. I was thinking of going 2 inches backspace on 10 inch rims... which would give me 4 inches plus another 2 for the tires which would give me a total of 6 inches extra width. Am I going too big?

Found the front diff vent... right in the cover just behind the sway bar. The tube was missing off mine, hence the water in my diff. All fixed up now. I extended the rear one up behind my taillight. Found the fill plug for the Xfer case... dead center on the back above the cross member , not a handy place! It's in between the webbing on the case... mine was caked in mud, that's why I couldn't see it. Xfer case - 75w90 or 80w90 GL-5 - I used GL-4 about 2.2 litres Manual Tranny - 75W90 / 80W90 GL4 ONLY 5.1 litres Auto Tranny - ATF - Dexron III Rear diff - 75W90 / 80W90 GL - 5 Front diff - 75W90 / 80W90 GL -5 *** GL-4 is high pressure Gear oil if you use GL-5 in low range you'll burn out your Syncros *** That's the reasoning that I got. Then after all that, I finally got to test out my 4 wheel in the parking lot and my passenger side CV axle is bitched. Bummer! Oh well Atleast they're easy to change. So now I'm down to an O2 sensor, axle, and mount my rear bumper. Almost! Almost! Thanks for all the help guys! Clay.

Ok... so there must be a filler plug somwhere on the Xfer case. I finally got a sunny day here.... I'm going get under it and try to find the little bugger. We'll find out soon enough if it's red or not. If it is ATF there's probably some hydraulic operation involved. Not sure what... but then it's a Nissan isn't it! They make awesome complicated stuff that works great until it breaks. LOL! Thanks for the breather tube Location, sounds like they already have it out of the way.... but I had water in my diff so I absolutely have to make sure it's not damaged. At least I can follow it down now. I couldn't locate it around the diff housing anywhere, so it may be broken off. Thanks for the help guys! Clay

Gonna add another lamer.... is the Xfer case connected to the tranny for its oil supply? I see a drain plug but no filler plug. Is that a secondary drain plug? or does it actually have it's own oil fill? Thanx again, Clay

I know this kind of a lamer... But I'm having trouble locating it. She's pretty tight in there, and my front diff was full of water. I popped the cap off and no rust.... cleaned everything really well and pumped her up with 80-90 synth. I should have looked while I had the cap off but.... yeah, I didn't. Now it's raining like a B and it's outside on gravel so I can't really get under it and crawl around! I never put it in 4x4 when I brought it home... so should be ok. Just the O2 sensor, back bumper and diff breather extensions to go! It's so close! Any help would make you a rockstar! Thanks! Clay

I really don't give a rats arse what gas cost.... I've always overlooked gas prices for the sake of fun and style! Beside's 4x4's, I like 50's rat rods and muscle cars and big caddies as well.... so if you have that sort of an addiction, you kinda have to force yourself to be oblivious to the pump prices. Asking me to cut down on gas consumption is like asking me to give up half my blood! oh well, we all have a weakness! Clay

It may be your accessory relay above the fuses. If you still have signals... try your left and right signal... put your finger on the relay you'll feel it clicking. Then do your hazards... thats a separate relay. That will leave your acessory relay. On mine they're all blue... so I just swapped 2 of them around to check. If that's not it... then your down to the (accessory) and (on) wire off your ignition switch, It powers that relay and makes it turn on, so if your getting a bad signal from from the ignition switch... nothing happens. If it barely lights a test light or makes it flash and act up.. the contacts in the switch are fried or filthy. And like Grim said... there's a chance your rectifier on your cluster is fried. Clusters are pretty cheap from the wrecker. Clay

If you have ignition power but no guages... There's a 60A black fusible link down behind your battery right by the tray... which is why it corrodes and falls apart. Cut that P.O.S out and mount a 60A thermal breaker on your fenderwall. Clay

03?.... are you out of warranty? I'd say you have a scorched or clogged O2 sensor... runs rich and gives you a fartbag idle. It's pretty newborn for any Mechanical probs. Clay