tmorgan4
-
Posts
914 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by tmorgan4
-
-
I think I might have a few extras....but you're going to have to figure out the hardware and steering extensions. I don't have everything to complete the kit.
-
and seriously your gonna say a STOCK D60 shaft is stronger than a chromoly D44 shaft? i dont think so. maybe with 35 spline outers it might compare at best BUT the price of those, not to mention the $250 for 35 spline lockouts, makes the D60 even more expensive to build.
Do all the math you want but the numbers are out there. I hate seeing bad info passed along.
Obviously this can't simulate real world driving but Longfield did a test on a bunch of axles and guess what??? A stock 35 spline Dana 60 shaft IS STRONGER than a 4340 Dana 44 shaft. Way too many variables to take into account to fit every situation but take it as you will.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread....=longfield+test
Bobby Longs Axle Breaking Machine Results---------------------------------------------------------------
Hope that everyone at the Jamboree liked the axle breaking demonstration. I really liked it and was really supprised at some of the results.
Here they are:
PRODUCT / ................................................. FT.LB. TORQUE/.... % TWIST
Yukon 4340 Dana 60 35 spline short side axle.........12,000 ..................130
Stock Dana 60 35 spline short side axle .................6,500 ....................35
Yukon 4340 Dana 44 30 spline short side axle ..........5,800 ...................35
Stock dana 44 30 spline........................................5,00 0.....................35
Yukon 4340 Birfield Eliminator kit (ear failure)............5,500......................50
Longfield 4340 30 spline (shaft failure)......................8,500............... ......175
Longfield 4340 27 spline........................................6,50 0.....................75
Stock Toyota Birfield.......................................... ..4,200 .....................45
Stock Toyota Inner Axle.......................................5,000 .....................45
All Pro "Profield".................................... .... .......... 3,500 ....................30
-
I've always wrapped a chain or strap around the exhaust manifolds and haven't dropped an engine yet. The slings look nice since they place them at the correct balance points but the exhaust manifolds always seem to work just fine.
-
Parts didn't get shipped out until yesterday so I won't have them until Monday. Guess I won't have any updates until then!
-
This 4-link rear set-up could be pretty badass, albeit expensive and time-consuming.
No kidding! I think expensive is an understatement. I bet the rear 4-link project on the Tacoma is at about $4,000 in parts. And that's with the stock axle and doing all the work for FREE.
I hope it's worth it when it's all said and done. -
Yes I have, but all I get is a automated service...that does me no good, casue its been saying the same thing for quite awhile
And boston....that steering extension seems to be quite small, atleast going off of the pics that I have seen of other peoples sfd's
That's pretty much all there is to it. I just did the exact same thing in a brand new Tacoma since it had the same issue with the gas tank. A 3 link rear would be easy, but I like the idea of moving the tank and doing a 4 link rear better. The whole fuel pump and gauge sending unit can be adapter into a new cell and mounted wherever you please.
I ordered enough parts today to make 2 sets of links. One will be a basic OEM replacement with polyurethane bushings on both ends. The other will have one poly bushing and one custom machined flex joint on the other and the overall length will be adjustable. I will have the set with bushings done by Friday hopefully and they will be for sale as soon as they're finished. The flex joints are going to take a couple weeks to get made.
-
SO, is it time for the upper control arm bushings to come out, or should I focus on the panhard or stabilizer bars next?
Grab onto one of the upper links and try to twist it. With good bushings you'll get a little bit of rotation but not a lot. If you are able to twist it a good amount, take a look at the bushing as you twist the link and you might notice that the metal bolt sleeve is separated from the rubber bushing.
-
How much are you going to extend the axle back? I could put a jog in the track bar to account for however far it's moving back. I played with the idea a while back but there isn't a ton of room to move it back without having to re-do the upper coil mount.
-
The links I'd be building that would be identical to the stock links with the upgraded bushings and build from heavier duty material would be very competitive with OEM replacement parts. I looked up the prices last night from Courtesy Nissan which is the cheapest dealer I know of and the lower links were between $80-100 each (I can't remember the exact price!) and the uppers were $119 each. For the people wanting a flex joint on one end or adjustability it's going to be a little more expensive than stock parts but it's a huge upgrade at the same time.
I'll post up some pictures later tonight of a 4-link rear I just built for an '09 Tacoma.
I'm working with a few people on these...it shouldn't take too long to get things going and get some more information and reviews.
-
Yeah I'd be interested in an adjustable panhard bar.
Right on! I'm interested to see how much the drop bracket ends up being as it might be a whole lot cheaper than building a new panhard bar.
-
Having the panhard bar run parallel to the axle or 1-2deg upwards to the frame to conteract acceleration squat is Ideal.
Running it 1-2deg upwards also allows it to stay closer to parallel when the vehcle is loaded.
Thats how I did mine, my lift was 3" in back but my bracket was only a 2.5" drop that combined with my new rancho's keeps the vehcile very level under acceleration. and when I have passengers in back it sags .5" so the bar is perfectly level.
I do appreciate the suggestions but there are quite a few things that I have to respectfully disagree with. The amount that your suspension will squat (or rise) under acceleration has absolutely nothing to do with the angle on the panhard. The panhard bar lives an easy life as it's only job is to keep the axle located laterally under the axle. The lengths and mounting locations of the other 4 links are what dictate 100% of the anti-squat behavior under acceleration.
Putting a 1 or 2 degree angle on the panhard is what I would call flat. There is absolutely no way to plan out exactly how much everything will weigh that you're going to carry to keep it here. With the stock R50 coils springrate of 115 in/lbs it's pretty obvious that adding 50 pounds (let alone a friend or two!) is going to change this angle pretty dramatically.
Getting the panhard back to being flat is more ideal than having an adjustable panhard. Both is probably a good option so you can adjust as a lift settles or if you decide to add a heavy rear bumper or other accessories. I did design a drop bracket quite a while back....I'll send that file off and get a quote on what a final piece will cost to get laser cut.
-
Glad to see a little bit of interest here! It's always hard to speculate whether something will sell or not but I think with this crowd it just needs to be done. This seems like one of the reasons the pre-order fell through. Nobody wants to pre-order parts....make them up front, and then sell them.
I'm looking into pricing on these and it really depends a lot on options. Those would include:
Adjustable length.
Poly bushings, flex joints, or one of each.
Track bar.
Tube thickness
Hardware
I'll build the first set and see how much it really costs from beginning to end. There's probably about 2 hours welding involved in each set.
-
I finally decided that I'm going to start building these links. I've talked about it with a few people for a long time and never really went through with it. I was hoping to see the pre-order go through but unfortunately that didn't work out. I've got a little bit different approach to how to build them since I'd be doing all the welding myself. I played with the idea of making them adjustable length-wise but I really don't think this necessary for most people.
The links will be built with a polyurethane bushing on one side, and the buyers choice of another polyurethane bushing or a flex joint on the other side. I like the flex joints a lot but they cost more money.
I promise you'll be impressed when you receive them. The welds will be very nice.
Why they make sense:
1) The last time I priced this out it's quite a bit cheaper than OEM Nissan parts. Buying the whole replacement link with bushings already installed makes installation the easiest, but you're going to pay for the parts. The replacement bushings aren't too expensive to purchase but paying someone to torch the old ones out and press the new bushings in can add a lot to the cost of install. This is the same way for the replacement poly bushings that 4x4parts.com sells however the bushings really aren't cheap and neither is the install.
2) The new links will come ready to bolt in. Bushings installed, and new hardware if you need it. The hardware often rusts to the metal sleeve inside the bushings with makes it necessary to cut the bolt to get the link out. No taking it to a mechanic who has a press.
3) It will improve the handling and ride quality of the suspension. I'll get some pictures of my old rubber bushings to explain. They are completely torn to where there are two separate pieces. This makes the ride quality way too soft with lots of movement and ultimately leads to the sway problems many have experienced.
4) The new links will be made of a stronger material than the OEM parts. The stock links are very thin and exposed. They're really a lot easier to bend than you might think. The new ones shouldn't bend.
What I need:
I don't want to take money from anyone yet. People are worried enough to try them out since this is something new so I'm going to build a set for free. If anyone wants to buy the parts and have them shipped to my house I'll assemble them and send them back for the cost of parts (and you get to cover shipping!). Once someone gets them installed I think it will be clear just how much of a difference these really make.
Any takers?
-
So they're being sheared? Every project seems to be way more involved that most people realize.
If you were down here in the states I'd give you a bunch of places to get quotes on parts from. It seems like if you have a bunch of them made it would make sense to get them cut with a laser.
-
Looks nice. How are these being cut out?
-
Go with one of these! http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/ I can't link directly to the Nissan page, but anything listed for the 350Z should fit (assuming yours is an 01 like your profile says). I'm running their stage 2 "TZ" clutch and it has been awesome. It holds 3x the stock torque and had about the same pedal feel as stock. You can also talk to Jason @ z31parts.com. He helped me decide on one and I couldn't be happier.
-
Did this end up going through?
-
Right on! I could use some motivation to finish mine.
-
Stretching the spring out should simulate the rear end without any additional weight. To increase the rear brakes you need to go the other direction.
-
Correct....but you've got them already. I've got a set I'd sell off an R50 if someone needs a pair.
-
Mine are back up for sale if anybody wants them. Pre-settled and fully assembled on KYB GR2 struts. I completely forgot about this post but I did end up getting the HD springs. I called Rocky Road before I ordered them and made sure I was getting the right ones.
-
Assuming it doesn't turn over at all when you turn the key:
Try hitting your starter with something solid like a hammer a few times and see if it turns over. I've got a good OEM starter I'll sell you if you need one.
-
Yep...it's a pretty simple install since they are already installed so you won't need gears set up. Just pull out the old 3rd member on the rear and swap in the new one. The whole front differential unbolts and the entire unit would be replaced with mine.
The bigger question is how to get them there....they are heavy!
-
I will make you a deal on some 4.6s!!
High Output Alternator
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
There are quite a few really simple ways to bump up the idle on command in the R50s. One way that would be super easy is using an input on the ECU that runs to a sensor on our power steering racks. You might have noticed that if you try and steer while standing still that the idle gets bumped up to help keep the power steering pump from bogging the engine down. You could use this input to just wire in a switch for a "high idle" but it probably won't raise the idle enough to get the alternator to its max output.