apc

poop

This thread motivated me to flush my fluid finally. Ive been putting it off for all of winter. I should point out, the bucket method is only partially correct. The pump does not draw fluid in, it only expels it. Fluid must be added via the fill tube. I also reoriented my cooler so the output was at the top. Thanks for the tip mws! With the temperatures rising outside I am noticing more and more heat coming from the center above the tranny. The floorboard and console gets quite warm, and I can feel the heat coming up from the area. My cooler gets too hot to touch so I'm fairly certain it isn't clogged or anything. Do others experience the same? Is this normal? Would it be advisable to add a second cooler? I'm currently running a Hayden 679, I believe rated for 30000lbs. I never tow anything so I dont see why this wouldn't be enough.

Same here 17.3 MPG before 19.6 after. And I still need to get the manifolds machined, still a little ticky.

Mine weighs 53lbs actually, without spare Ive got mine off at the moment to do some work on it and its a noticable difference on the truck. Back end sits a little higher, performance and mileage are improved. The spare is just strapped to the hooks but I intend on reinstalling the rack once I do some body work. It really isn't that heavy but if it becomes a real pain Ill just throw a rope over a tree branch. And the switch should be normally closed type so if you just remove it the light will go out.

Wow you sure you dont work next to a lake?!

You just have to redrill the holes if I remember correctly. Don't be scurred. You have to submerge a good amount of the filter before you're in trouble. A splash of water on the element isn't going to do anything.

LOL Well like someone already said maybe a squirrel or somethin crawled in there and couldnt get out Or you've got new life forms evolving in your ducts. That you only smell it when stopped makes me think whatever it is is more towards the outside grills.. is it only when set for fresh air or recirc as well?

Step outside sometime when you smell it and sniff your tailpipe. If you almost hurl, yup catalytic is kaput. Mine was the same way so I took a big screwdriver to it and it doesn't stink anymore.

Lower to the ground hmm? If you're referring to that URL the filter looks like it's housed in the fender inside the wrap-around part of the bumper. It is isolated from the road by the wheel well liner. This is the same spot Honda used to (they might still dunno) house all the resonator boxes and assoc. tubing with the stock filter box mounted just inside the engine bay. I agree that in our trucks putting the filter down low wouldnt be a terribly bright idea, but I have seen little ricers who either couldnt or didnt want to put the filter in the fender, so they brought the tubing down to below and beside the motor. Just being away from the heat is all that really matters without taking environment into account. Hell the older Toyota MR2s had the motor at one end and the intake at the other! I have yet to pull off my fender and see just how much room there is to play with, but if I ever become motivated to come up with a practical cold-air solution I'll be sure to post a writeup. In the meantime I strongly encourage that others experiment on their own.. I have yet to see a commercially produced cold-air intake for our trucks, and there is obviously a market demand present.. someone could stand to make a pretty penny.

When you get it go ahead and mount it up so you have a baseline to compare to. Then build a shield. Not too hard just tin or aluminum sheeting riveted into shape, isolating the filter element so it can only draw air through the original hole in the wall. If you've looked at similar style systems for some other vehicles, many have a flap or shield behind the filter that serves the same purpose. It's not as effective as a CAI, but it gets the job done. If you've already spent the cash ($105 is that right? so thats probably $35 for the cone and 70 for the adaptor) might as well make the best of it. If you ever decide you want the real deal, you can easily build your own and reuse that cone filter if it will fit where you want it. Here's a page that outlines using mandrel bent steel tubing available at many big-name hardware stores (Casa De Pot, Lowes). The page is written up for Hondas but the application is the same. http://www.clubcivicquebec.com/site/techni...rmance/012.html Unfortunately the intake is one of the least impacting of many bottlenecks in the VG30, so only so much can be gained by working at this end.

Yup. Well made snorkels work just as well.

Looks like it has its ups and downs, and is user relative http://www.oregongasprices.com/Forum_MSG.a...14614&page_no=1 http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=119611&page=1 And much more via Google.

http://www.kirotv.com/consumer/2220354/detail.html It was outperformed by DUCTTAPE!

Actually true CAI's typically have the filter assembly housed in the fender or someplace else outside the physical engine bay. The impact of heat is actually greater on ricers. Truck motors typically generate power through raw displacement (3L, 4L, 5L of air etc). Heat only really effects the low-end when the numbers are low to begin with. At 4krpm, a few cubic inches of air doesnt make a whole lot of difference. Remember hot air = less dense = less oxygen = less power. Ricer's on the other hand (typically 4bangers) generate power through efficient and optimal use of the available air. Every little bit counts with these babies, as thin hot gasses sucked into the intake can have a severe impact all the way through the curve. With our pathies the best bet is to use a drop-in style filter replacement using the stock routed tubing (into the fender), or construction of a true cold-air system (have yet to see a commercial version).

Hehehehe. A remote thermo will do I had my sensor in the ventilation grille for a short time.. the heat coming up from the hood was enough to register a 5-10degreeF increase over ambient while in motion.