OldSlowReliable
-
Posts
2,125 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by OldSlowReliable
-
-
Have him move it up 6", and in about 3"...then you will have a pretty good fitting bumper
I agree on the tubing bender....I'd have him cut it off and weld on a premade stinger if you want the stinger look...I'm looking to put on the $50 stinger from rustys offroad, and there are many out there to choose from, some with headlight protection, some without.
Or you could take it as is, chop it up to how you want it, and take it to an offroad fabricator who has a bender to make it how you want. Oh yeah, and he still owes you a favor...
-
You'll be wasting time, money, and effort using a d30. I've seen guys break them with tires less than 33"...
Not to mention gearing options for a d30..
-
1
-
-
1. more tires currently have one leaking
2. finish wiring the lights and get my rock lights installed
3. install rear bumper
4. cut off sliders and reweld them
5. finish front bumper
6. replace both TRE's and get an alignment
7. finish repairing compression rod bushings
8. test winch again (hopefully get my synthetic lead and installed)
9. relocate radio and install CB overhead
10. weld up spare tire carrier, flag holder, jerry can holder, high lift holder
11. test wheel it...test wheel it...fix what i break
12. make sure i have trail spares
List of spares
1. TRE's (about 4 of each)
2. Ball joints upper and lower
3. idler arm
4. center link
5. auto hubs and manual hub parts, wheel bearings
6. starter
7. altenator or 2
8. radiator
9. belts
10. hoses
11. lower rear links
12. all fluids
The following comments are numbered in relation to the order that I bolded your list...lol here it goes
1)There is an online distributor who sells easy to install, cheap, effective LED rock lights, I'll try to find the link for you, as they are on my to-do as well
2)Belle tire has a monthly members group that you either get $20 off anything in the store, or %50 off an alignment. Front end is 45 bucks usually...good prices!
3)Please make a writeup with pictures of the overhead cb install, its something I've wanted to investigate for a while. Should be as simple as a couple nutserts right?
4)Do you think a rad is really space worthy? I mean, I'm sure it will come in handy if you end up needing it, but I also haven't done much desert wheeling, so it could be crucial out there, lol! If you're going to the trouble of doing that, I'd consider an efan aswell (can't remember if you have one yet) and upgrade the alt using your current one as a spare, might as well upgrade instead of buying two spares that are the same as what you got, and revert to the stock in an emergency...must my .02 though
5)I am doing this aswell for general purposes. I highly recommend an explosives ammo box like mine. It has a seal to keep the liquids IN if they end up spilling, keeps the smell out of the cab on a hot desert day, and keeps em organized, just food for thought!
I was actually going to see if I could meet up with your caravan, but my gone moab plans have fallen through due to lack of $$! Goodluck, stay safe, and keep us posted!
-
Half doors are another option, and the fact that he incorporates a nice soft-door would be another reason to choose them. I've seen a few people use the soft door half door approach, and was going to myself, but never got around to finding time/money to get another pair of doors and chop em up.
The cool thing about tube doors is that they are very light so you can put them on and take them off very easily, and throw them in the back of the car. They are also alot easier to make, and you can make them out of square tube if you lack a bender. You could also make a soft door attachment if you wished, using a round bar framing...
-
Once upon a time I dreamed of tube doors and such...but could never decide a foolproof way of connecting the electronics, i.e. keeping the water out of a plastic connector and such.
-
Something interesting I found about my own state;
We have legalized machine guns and what the feds consider machine guns, BUT for some reason this does NOT include suppressors, even though in the machine gun allowance suppressors are included. So we have one regulation that says they ARE legal, and one that says they are NOT, which infact makes them illegal to own in the long run. However, last I heard our congressman was working out just how to interpret everything, but never got back to anyone about it
-
Ooooh perty! I wouldn't mind some tint on mine!
-
Sweet
My truck was definitely getting some lovin this month! Thanks Pa!
-
My 88 doesn't have sub fuel, or a sticker on the axle. Pretty sure I have LSD due to I would get stuck much more often if not...lol it's an XE... While we are on this sort of topic what the heck does th "sport/touring" button next to the E-Brake DO???? always wondered
electronically adjustable shocks, that switch changes the stiffness.
-
Noone I know of makes them. I have only seen one person make a set, but cannot recall who or how well they served the purpose.
-
Dude if you have nothing to say other than emoticons to imply that you don't' agree then don't post at all.
It wasn't implying anything, and I was in no way starting anything. I was pretty much hinting at "Jeebus, let it go already. Be the bigger man and walk away. Internet arguing is beyond pathetic.
" as tek put it.The same can be said for the person who feels the need to comment on someone's post needlessly
The only portion that I was commenting on, was;
"funny thing is no one bashed me when it had no roof at all! we posted the video of mud bogging and stuff, during the build, "wow, cool, neat, I want one!" etc... then I START building a cage and every other wanna-be welder comes out of the woodwork telling me what a crappy person I am.lol. go figure."
all I was saying is that its not even worth bringing up, especially when mods had already said to stop the bickering. It was expressing my distaste for the entire situation of arguing.
In my first post on the first page, I wasn't harassing about the cage, or saying anything out of line. I know when I was building my sliders/bumper I was looking for ideas on how to make them better/stronger, and a little criticism among fellow wheelers is anything but bad, I pointed out what I saw as a possible weakness, and a possible way of correcting. What people do with their trucks is their own business, but if someone posts it up on here, they should be ready for people to dislike it, and critique it, that's what forums are all about. I'm not going to bash someone's work, but I will give them another point of view on things, to try and help em to improve, for all I know, the OP just hadn't thought about it that way (so to speak).
I didn't realize that there was an approved way to post on this board, of which does not include emoticons.
-
-
You don't love us!!!!
Goodluck, and I hope everything works out!
-
I say fix what you need to make you happy, i.e. fix the speakers to have music, and just drive it until it dies, all the while saving up for something better! Whether thats another wd21, or a new truck or something.
Thats kinda my plan if my truck ever dies (I'm giving it 12 months lol), either part it out and start over on a different rig, or get another pathy and transfer it all over. It really just depends on what you want to do NEXT..If you already have another wd21 in mind, I'd say start looking, and if you see a deal you just can't pass up, go for it!
-
did you check out the website?
Absolutely not.
-
1
-
-
AFAIK they are the same, although it kinda depends on WHERE it is rubbing...
It could be one of three things
1) Trucks with the 235's have a better turning radius because the turn stops are adjusted to allow the wheel to turn more, when you put on 31s, you will need to adjust the stops, or just refrain from putting the wheel that far over. This will have the tire rubbing on the frame near the compression rod bushing mount. (Atleast thats where my 33s rub)
2)Backspacing on an aftermarket wheel, if they have a backspacing different than 4", this could account for some rubbing, either on the frame, or on the fenders depending on the different backspacing.
3)Finally, if your torsion bars are sagging severely, or have been adjusted down on purpose, this could account for rubbing on something/anything.
I haven't read the above post, but a simple crank of the T bars and some new springs in the back will help you get apx 1.5"-2" of lift for almost nothing out of your pocket.
Instead of stiff f series springs, I suggest ZJ v8 springs. You will be able to/have to cut them down to get the desired height, but they will undoubtedly be closer to the stock-stiffness ride quality, especially since your truck is a 2wd, it will be nice for the street use, as well as any offroading will make you appreciate them!
I used 3" rough country lift springs intended for the front of a XJ to lift the rear of mine 3". I cut the pigtail off the springs, and if you can find 2" or 3" lift springs for the front of an XJ for cheap, I'd just cut them down, as I LOVE mine.
Happy trails!
-
The logo looks like what's on my keychain, and the rest looks like a generic door nameplate....looks homemade/oneoff
-
it snaps on, and the front slides into a channel. so you can roll it up and slide it out of the channel if you want it off of there. I was going to have the guy incorporate buckles up front so it could roll up without having to be slid out of the channel, but forgot to mention that. I hadnt really considered just having the front and middle seats just covered n stuff, but its possible, theres snaps every 6 inches along the way, just have to clamp the vinyl top or something.
as for the negative comments, eh, whatever. I dont care. If you can judge these welds, or the structural integrity of this setup through pictures, then you have some serious talent.
dude painted his pathfinder pink and is flicking me @!*%? wow. ok. For someone with some unconventional ideas of his own, I wouldnt got bashing others. lol
Two things.
1) Big words coming from a guy with .com in his username
2) Noone's bashing, I too am a little concerned with your cage design, specifically because I remembered you having small children riding in the vehicle on a vid you posted (atleast I think that was you)
3) The cage isn't bad, and with a little triangulation it would be fairly good, but the way you have them welded to the existing body metal is not a safe way of doing it, that metal/roof was INTENDED to crumple in a fashion that would serve to satisfy regulations. The second you change that design, the way it crumples is going to be altered, so now if you roll, that nicely built cage is just going to be squashed down to the framerails...
4) Although the only final way to identify a good weld is to get an xray/ultrasound of the weld, the general image of the bead is a decent method of evaluating the integrity. A good weld almost always looks good, and a bad weld almost always looks bad
-
1
-
-
Did you wire in your own keyless entry (I'm assuming as much based on the nature of your question..)
What unit did you use, and what wires did you tap into when wiring the unlock/lock features?
-
What they said^^
I think your tires may need some air, but thats just from the picture, could be me!
-
I'd say either go with the xrc8, or spend BIG bucks and get a nice warn.
Personally, unless I found a used warn in great condition for cheap, I'd go for the smitty.
-
It looks like a RHD carrier, the tire is shifted more to the right.
If it is, its not much...looks pretty centered compared to the license plate
-
-
Although I'm intrigued to how well these kits work, and what your inevitable results will be; I must agree that it is somewhat of a poor decision....however it's just that, your decision. Let us know how you like them
TUBE DOORS R50! :)
in The Garage
Posted
I personally won't go doorless until I have a cage and harnesses to protect the occupants and myself in the event of a rollover....thats just me though..